Sunday, February 18, 2007

London - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Day 3-4

Paul Smith Woman - A none too thrilling,yet entirely acceptable Great Gatsby look. Long strands of pearls, tennis cardigans, low-cut and loose dresses, menswear pinstriped suits.


Christopher Kane - I have been quite excited for this show. I'm still swooning over last season's dresses. This time, the same verve in leather and crushed velvets. I miss the neon, but welcome the metallics and am impressed by the Renaissance Fair-inspired dresses and coats. His world just looks like fun.



Sinha-Stanic - Quiet suits - all rounded shoulders and short jackets - and sexy minis. The metallics came across a little old and dated in some looks.


Marios Schwab - More quilted sleeping bags - but still in a trim silhouette. I can really get behind the quilted dresses and soft, sexy sweaters.



Roksanda Ilincic - Tulle-d ankles and collars, ruffles, and satin bows. It comes across best in minis which arent being overtaken by the details.


Preen - Oh yeah. The excitement I was hoping for at Christopher Kane. Pleats everywhere, on bodices, on shoulders. The shoulders appear to be missing bits of a suit of armor, just recreated in knits and wools. Neon that looks so cool for cool weather, and super sexy hooded sweater dresses that I guess are actually good for cool weather.



Hamish Morrow - Even more sleeping bags! I'm going to call this an under-the-radar trend. Not one that just anyone should pick up on, if perhaps you need to worry about puffy pieces making actual parts of you puffy. Laces, satins, and complicated draping and wrapping. Nicely serious, futuristic sexy.


Aquascutum - So many lovely looks. Fitted dresses, corsets, rope-accented sweaters, drum major jackets and capes, little trenches. Just lovely.



Biba - Youthful and wearable, but entirely appropriate flirty-skirted dresses, sexy trousers, and buttoned-up blouses.



Jonathan Saunders - Center of the body focus - with zippers and contrasting fabrics on slim dresses and coats. The colors are just beautiful (especially the gradations) and so very dramatic. Especially on such simple and elegant pieces. I think my London favorite, so far.


London - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Day 1-2

Ben de Lisi - Pretty metallics and laces and draped dresses, with a bit of an 80s touch.


Noir - Elegant, yes; but a little off, not in the right way.


Peter Jensen - Rather shapeless and ugh on the whole, but with some adorable plaids and suits.


Duro Olowu - The best prints - a sort of modern African look. Perfectly mismatched pieces.



Richard Nicoll - Bibbed front shirts and jackets that remind me of a modern pirate. Some fun alternatives to ruffles and minis.



Erdem - More great prints and ruffles and minis. Blousy coats. Just pretty and cool.




Todd Lynn - Fairyl ugly menswear.

New York - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Day 8

Ralph Lauren - Swingy fitted coats, funnel-necks, 40s dresses. Sedate.


Carmen Marc Valvo - Classic dresses, tailoring and pleating.


Dennis Basso - Fur and floaty, ruffly sheers and laces. Pretty and luxe.


Brian Reyes - Fairly unsexy. Fairly blah.

Donna Karan - Sexy dresses and crisp pleating and corset accents.


Daryl K - Pretty much what you'd expect. Rock girl dresses and shiny leggings.

Tommy Hilfiger - Too much mens. Ugh. Very nice primary color accents, pretty plaids. School girl jumpers and dresses.



Costello Tagliapietra - Sophisticated working girl dresses. Beautifully draped dresses and blouses.



Chado Ralph Rucci - Odd and overly fussy without being pretty clothes for old women. Bah.

Tuesday, February 13, 2007

New York - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Day 7

J Mendel - Obviously lots of fur, some sexy leathers, and chevron tweeds. I am in love with the 40s shoulders and thick satin waistbands and belts.



Badgley Mischka - Elegant suits, funnel necked jackets, rich strapless shifts. Beautiful and luxurious collection.



VPL - I guess an artistic take on modern military/guerilla gear.


Phi - Quilted satin jackets, cool belted minis.


Neil Barrett - Nice suits. Ok.


Malo - Wacky chunky sweaters with lots of fur and feather accents. Sexy menswear pinstripes.


Vera Wang - I've never seen her looking so young or so unprecious. Still rich, but a little of the wrongness and freedom of expression that I like and find much sexier. Pretty much gorgeously cool.




Y & Kei - Fitted strapless dresses in jewel-tone silks or grey wools, the perfect baby doll hip-length jacket, and silk applique details. Nice.


Myself - A mix of 60s tailored shifts and wrong feather and fur jackets and dresses.


Calvin Klein - The most elegantly tailored dresses I've ever seen. Just perfect.



Tory Burch - I cant help but like such wearable, pretty, tailored, almost vintage looking dresses and coats. Just a classic look.



Cynthia Rowley - Pretty party looks, in the most intense colors and intensely decorated and fabrics.


Zac Posen - Pretty ruffles and origami and smocking - perfect dresses.