Thursday, October 16, 2003

Paris Finally

Andrew Gn - I'm probably going to contradict myself later...but I really really love this guy. He can pull the best from previous and (seemingly) this season and tweak it just right to make it completely wearable. Photo 19 is last year's Chanel but not so precious. The whole beginning is Moschino but not so silly. Photo 25 is what Barbie would wear if she had a non-Vegas stylist. And I totally dig the flowers at the end. Mmmm.

[ok, Marc and I are watching the Wade Robson finale and can I say that JC Chasez is the suckiest singer/performer/person I have ever witnessed on tv? Pure shit. He even looks cheesy ugly gross.]

Celine - Michael Kors is the abs master of rich bitchiness. I love his color scheme and he stays true to his aesthetic. He *always* does this, but is there anything more decadent than cashmere with a bikini (photo 21)??

Chanel - Hohum. I do not believe I have ever felt so blah about a Chanel collection. Nothing is wrong, but nothing is right. No fantasy and considering the perfection of the previous few collections...I'm very surprised. The trench in photo 36 is just shy of perfect though.

Chloe - I can get behind the high-waisted pants but I cannot get down with the Mom pants in photo 4. Ick ick ick. I did not enjoy this collection.

Christian Dior - I cannot get enough of his signature silhouettes. I fully respect how he really stands behind his designs...he's not just throwing ideas at us, he's creating a legacy. I totally love the Gaultier-esque tattoo shirts too.

Ungaro - The abs final word in elegant sexy. I cant criticize this collection and I adore that shade of pink.

Givenchy - I guess there's nothing wrong with this unless you dont particularly feel like being Charlotte from Sex and the City every fucking day.

Helmut Lang - I get a strong tennis vibe. This is not necess a bad thing. I was just sayin'.

JPG - Another designer who stays true to his aesthetic...bondage/fencing/aeon flux.

Lanvin - Gorgeous draping...I love the bustle in 45 (check out the back in photo 46).

Louis Vuitton - The continuing saga of the disappointing Marc Jacobs. The color scheme is nice but it's totally frenetic. Trying a little too hard, a la Carrie Bradshaw. Ugh.

Martin Grant - These are classically simple, nicely executed, but a little not very original. Why do I say the same thing about Gn but in a positive way? I dont know...I guess this isnt very scientific.

Nina Ricci - Faerie-wear...lovely...angelic. I'm glad Lars Nilsson still has a job.

Stella McCartney - Faerie-wear too, but different. Gorgeously dreamy. Satisfies my fantasy while staying perfectly wearable. I would wear this every single day.

Undercover - This show will give me nightmares for sure [as will this Transsexual DiGiorno commercial].

Valentino - Sexy sophisticate, but what the fuck is up with that lace. First half and the end are a thousand times better than the middle. I guess that's why most designers show 30-40 looks and not 81!

Viktor and Rolf - Love the bows. Love the red shoes. Totally could wear this everyday. Though I hate their coats. I wanna go to a ball! (47 and 49)

YSL - Disappointed. Seemed frumpy and uncool and a little cheap on the models!! That's not a promising observation, ya know.

So...I guess my thoughts on Spring - Summer 2004? Mainly shocked and disappointed. The infallible seemed to have failed and a few that I had written off as talentless, completely surprised me. There are always good things and always a few things you didnt know you were craving...but very few gasps from this side of the shows.

Sunday, October 05, 2003

Ciao Bella

Some notes on Milan:

When I grow up, I definitely will dress in Alberta Ferretti. She has the 30ish, stylish, still-slightly-messy girl down just perfect. I would definitely wear any of her clothing today, but I'm on a tight schedule of getting as many too-tight, too-short, too-young outfits in before I really start looking my age. Hopefully, by then, 'looking my age' will involve me starting to resemble 35-year-old, voluptuous Italian women with long black hair and oversized lips. Photos 40 and 44 are pure dreaminess.

How is it Italian designers can make even the blandest idea or trend seem like the most cutting-edge yet somehow timeless cool girl gear? See all of Anna Molinari. Those belts! Moschino! Those shoes! Those tights! Those everything!! Seriously, I love each and every photo. You must view the entire thing. Trust me. DSquared2 appears to be the general exception, except in photo 14. I would maybe kill you for those hot pink sandals. Oooh 16! I take it back...the show starts off lame, but now...I wanna be some greaser's hot Italian vixen! Oh wait, it ends kinda lame too.

Why does Burberry, the British label that markets itself as the quintessential British brand, show in Milan? This turns me off, even if they started the show with dear Kate. The ho-hum, art-school offerings turn me off even more though.

The D&G show appears a little chaotic, or a lot chaotic, and some bits seemed to be trying too hard to be shocking or tarty, but I really feel inspired by the whole thing. These arent clothes to aspire to purchase, but looks to aspire to assemble from your closet's offerings. It's really very hard for me not to worship the first 24 photos. Really.

I despise when designers show men's fashion on the runway. Despise. Armani? 103 photos? No thanks.

As obvious as it sounds, I really respect Miuccia Prada. She somehow, season after season, creates clothes that no one would ever want but they cant live without. And always with a 50s kiss, which inspires instant affection from me. I usually enjoy her lower-line MiuMiu more, but this time it's all about Prada. Whereas MiuMiu was a little dull, Prada is all 50s picnic-in-the-park or a-stiff-drink-after-getting-fired-from-my-job-as-a-typist fantasy. There are even a few yes-I'll-accompany-you-to-a-cocktail-party-so-your-boss-believes-you-are-married-or-not-gay dresses to swoon over.

I am far too big a snob to even comment on Roberto Cavalli. Pish-posh designer ha.

Versace has surprised me yet again...whatever lifestyle I need to adopt to wear/be photo 10, I'm in. I'm totally digging Versus even.

I think I'm going to plot out a pleated skirt with random fabric panels on the side.