Tuesday, March 09, 2004

Paris (Day 5.5)

Kenzo - Mini-Galliano this season...so odd that they have so many matching influences...the Scarlet skirts, the kimono-esque dresses. Kenzo is just on a slightly less-over-the-top scale. 7,19,22,30-those tights!!!,41,45,46

Louis Vuitton - An amazing coat (1). I can honestly say I've seen nothing like it. A nice mix of textures and styles. I love the hair and capelets (12- i'm just a sucker for blue satin bows). Dark plaids sometimes come across as dated Ralph Lauren rejects, but he's used these in a modern-y vintage-y way that makes them fresh and lust-worthy (15). These daring 40s/50s dresses are just *this* side of cheesy, but in such luxe fabrics and rich colors they're *that* side of phenomenal (19,20,36,41,43). Gorgeous funny suits - 31,35...yay!

Martin Grant - Nice 60s style...28,29,32,33,34...awesome midnight blue and purple. 36 is just fabulous.

Martine Sitbon - Drapey, ruffley, nice, but maybe there have been better shows.

Nina Ricci - Very wearably, well-dressed comfort. The colors are fantastic (37,39,41). Nice girl clothes.

Revillon - Rick Owen's blah (see below), now with more fur (it's one of the oldest fur brands).

Rick Owens - boooooring. i have yet to understand his appeal. supposedly he makes paper-thin leathers...woo. There's always a prisoner-in-a-space-colony vibe and it depresses me.

Sonia Rykiel - Whatever decade is the touchpoint for 12 and 13, I'm totally in. 20s? Gorgeously bright and happy dresses, hilarious sweaters, just plain perfect dresses (did I already mention). Love the cabaret feel of the closing. I want to be so....Rykiel too!

Stella McCartney - Some more (s'more?) sleeping bag wear, maybe not quite as successful. The prints of the jackets are striking and new (11,13). Futuristic cool (16,19,37,40,46)...the dresses are the most interesting and the most lovely.

Tim van Steenbergen - Slouchy, avant-rumpled suits and dresses. I actually really like this.

Valentino - I love ties. Especially with such a feminine lace blouse (1,20). Sexy, manly ('cept that fabulous fur shrug in 10). I am crying for everything in photo 14. Oh my. Just look at every photo. Drop Dead Gorgeous. Every single one. So utterly french...masculine mixed with femme, hard with soft...perhaps he should be at YSL? I cant imagine why a celebrity would pick another designer's gowns...these are jaw-dropping.

Viktor & Rolf - Let's ignore the antlers for a moment and comment on how deceptively simple and fantastic photo 2 is. Photo 5 or 16 could be the most perfect suit I've seen. I esp like the black bow belt in 5. Are you seeing a trend of strong (not necess padded) shoulders? This is probably their least wacky show and is most def their most undeniably wearable collection. I really liked each piece. Like, a lot.

YSL Rive Gauche - The colors! The shoulders! Satin and velvet have become almost Tom Ford trademarks...these are gorgeous examples of his knowledge of women's desires. All sexy and hard and just this side of scary. The detail in the skirts is amazing (partic 30)...skirts should never be too simple, as the bit of leg showing is enough to make anything look nice. Great evening - 32,34,35. A very good final showing.

Monday, March 08, 2004

Paris (Day 5.25)

Ok, I lied. I didnt notice that Vogue UK hadnt posted *TWENTY-FIVE* shows, but did so today. Argh. These will be split over two more days!

Akris -I read an interesting article on this designer recently. Apparently, his studio is located in the mountains of Sweden or Switzerland or somewhere neutral like that. He has little contact with the fashion world, which gives a very classic and untrendy influence to his clothes. These are surprisingly un-boring pieces. The structured jackets and flimsy blouses is always a nice look. 17,18,23,31 - very classy and safe but not at all boring and simple.

Alexander McQueen - Incredible workmanship without theatrics. Very un-McQueen, but his skills are quite evident. The slinky draped dresses (14 - a modern grecian style and 40 too, 39,45,48) and the just as slinky, impeccably cut (and so new!!! such interesting styles!) tweed suits (5,8,9,24). I have even more respect for him now. This is proof of his talent, more than any other show I've seen. So mature and sophisticated, and still drop-dead avant garde (9,20). Stunning. Inspiring.

Ann Demeulemeester - Riding clothes gone deconstructed. 9 and 33 are nice.

Balmain - Seriously missing the femininity and exactness of Oscar de la Renta...33 is nice in a predictable statement evening gown sort of way. A little bit *mature* woman.

Cacharel - I adore unexpected coat linings (4)! Why isnt this more common?! Very cute (23,37,46), but not cute enough to make me cry.

[difficulties on Vogue UK so onto Vogue.com (sorry)]

Chanel - A little bland, though the lace skirts are appealing (16,18). The overalls, sweatsuits, and leather pants are jaw dropping in their awfulness. This whole show reminds me of those fake Chanels you see where you think "but Chanel would never even make anything that awful!"

Collette Dinnigan - Gorgeous lace (4,7,18,35,36), though a lot of the rest are a bit mall slutty.

Chloe - Nice layering and nice dresses. I will never be able to fully get behind the caftan. Perfect trousers, delicate tops, and big and small cardigans make for a cosy fall. Some of the best dresses to dream about (30,37- the colors!).

Givenchy - Matrix-Audrey. Nice and grownup dresses (4,11,27-acidy orange is my new favorite!,29,31,36,39-or maybe yellow,43-that lace! those layers!!,45). Soft suits (13,16). Hard jackets (9,21). A seriously fantastic last collection. I hope he finds a better house that will give him the respect he deserves. I need a formal cocktail party and I need those dresses!!

Hermes - Gaultier keeping with the Hermes horsey theme...not *such* a fan. I do think the new clutch Birkins (15) are exciting and the saddle-stitched corsets (10)! Of course, all of the leathers are a dream...edgy but classic (12,21,27,46,53), as is the use of orange (24).

Hussein Chalayan - A little bulky and morose. Very nicely cut trousers though (24). And little ballet dresses (30), with fabulous hems.

John Galliano - Insanity! With a little bit of Westwood (8). A vagrant mexican Scarlet. Bizarre. Loooove the cut and sheerness of the over dresses/skirts (17). If you believe that fashion is not art, then how do you explain Galliano?

Lanvin - Sexy little things 6,14,19,41,45. Properly pretty little things 8, 20,21,22,39,40. Odd 12, 16, 43 (perhaps Nobel Prize Chic?). Militaristic chic 13. Basically, party girl clothes for every mood.

Sunday, March 07, 2004

The end of all this fashion (Paris, day 5)

Celine - Michael Kors knows how to dress the elegant, stylish woman. You can picture his clothes on a 22 year old and a 76 year old and both would look the epitome of WASP-y sophistication, but with a layer of fun and sexy just under the surface. The perfect Hitchcock heroine, if you will (1,10,11- I adore this cut of sweater...very Audrey, 12,37) . He's incapable of doing even the tiniest bit of sleaze, he's all about luxury - sweaters, leathers, sunglasses (5,13).

Dries Van Noten - Oh how I hate this woven fabric in these rug-like patterns and colors. These pants are horrendous (8). I do like the coats in 22 and 26...the color/pattern/cut are very nice. 73 photos, praise the Lord for a fast connection.

Helmut Lang - I like skinny black pants. I dont like coppery leather. Especially in asymetrical, cropped jacket form (17). I despise his take on an evening gown. That was just godawful. I'm intrigued by the ruffle on those boots tho.

Loewe - Jetset sex. Looooove the cut of the pants (5,31), the fur vests (20), the slim dresses (6,16,27), the coats (8,25), the ribbons (6,32), and all those boots! I didnt want this show to end. The most fashionable without being obnoxious, muted without being boring. Excellent.

Veronique Branquinho - Mysterious hats, FBI agent gear (meaning not sexy like a double-crossing spy). A little too frumpy, diy to me. The silk pajamas feel towards the end of the jackets, dresses, and skirts was an interesting look. I especially like the understated evening of 45.

Thursday, March 04, 2004

Pah-ree (Day 4)

Alexandre Herchcovitch - I only wish the models were smiling, because this is such a fun, whimsical collection. The minnie mouse/bumblebee aesthetic is silly, but the pieces are interesting. I love the bustier over tight t's (4) and girlish, poufy sleeves [what's the name for that?] (8, 11). There's a few moments of 19th century corpses, but the bright ruffles redeem him (24).

Bernhard Willhelm - Hmm. The models are much more interesting than the clothes. Early 90s rave. Eh.

Christian Dior - Pure fantasy. I dont understand why when designers do "fashion" it's so serious and hard and scary, but when Galliano does it, there's humor and skill and insane creativity. The cut, the colors...just perfect for a dream (or a circus)! From the clownish colors to the light as air cotton candy dresses (2,5,10,11, 17, 22, 27). And how do you like those David Byrne suits at the end? I love him.

Comme des Garcons - Dropped shoulder seams, backwards pants...The feminized avant garde men's suits (16,17,18,19). Gathered layering, while not bulky is definitely still odd. I'm not sure how I feel about the short pants over long pants. Skirts over pants I'm fully in support of...It's the same thing with Galliano, you are seeing a vision and you have to imagine the real-life, sellable piece. A slightly toned down version of most of these would be very nice and not even that crazy (1,5,21,28,29,33). Just enough edge to keep us all entertained (or confused).

Costume National - Oooooh. 21st century spy noir! (1,4,7!!!!!). Exotic but not overwhelming. I like the small details, the bows on the trouser cuffs (13), the perfect cut of 14. I see a lot of Tom Ford in these designs (partic his YSL design-style), but that's not a bad look to mimic (that icy but sensual, hard but flirty look) (15,24,34,36,43). I really liked all of this...just for the shear fact of its wearability.

Emanuel Ungaro - First of all, I think I want to dress us all in these clothes. How could any of us be unhappy wearing such happy, dreamy, sexy, flirty, fun, feminine, forward things?! The perfect jacket (1), the perfect bubblegum pink (3,6,7), our new jeans and tshirt (11), dropdead gorgeous florals (16,17,20), light-as-a-feather slink (22,23, 25, 27,28, 30,31,36), the perfect christmas party wear (37), and what I'll be wearing to prom (44). I love every single thing. The colors (the reds and blues!!! oh, but those reds and pinks. red!), the fabrics, the whisper-y cuts. Wow wow wow.

Issey Miyake - You cannot take away my love for tulle (4, 6,76,77). Or for silver, heavily seamed skinny pants (13). Or wacky jackets (31, 35). I've never had much love for lace leggings though. I love the printed (and matching!) boots (59, 73). The prints are so original. They seem like pages of a particularly busily illustrated children's book. The clothes are little-girl-dressup with a whole lot of style.

Jean Paul Gaultier - Freaky sexy, freaky androgyny, freaky homeless-lady-weirdly-baggy coats. I didnt really enjoy this, save for the last dress. Very disappointing, as I usually love his shows.

Lagerfeld Gallery - White rebel chic. Siberian motorcyclist. So hardcore. All skinny rockstar pants with black suede stiletto boots. I think Lagerfeld is vying for the job at YSL. The no-nonsense sex. The butch mixed with the ethereal goddess. Every single photo is pure triple-x fantasy. Unh.

Rochas - Mini-skirted evening wear seems so 60s charming. The laces and darker colors make them seem very now. Very fashion forward. It's a very good compliment that I can picture Kate Moss wearing every single dress. The shoes and gloves give an added kooky sophistication. 9, 14, 20, 26, 39. The heavily structured tulle ballgowns are just pure imagination. 38, 44. A feast of the best in evening, if you like a little Mod in your glamour.

Wednesday, March 03, 2004

Oui, Paris! (Day 2 and 3)

AF Vandevorst - This version of military is not my bag. I like contradictions, but the flowers and ballerinas mixed with military jackets and details doesnt work very well. I would cut you for those boots (especially in blue -25) if you were wearing them right now though.

Andrew Gn - Not thrilled, but 15, 17, 19, 25, 32 are almost perfect. I adore the sequins...they look like Broadway blocks from here. Very cold, sexy, and I adore the poufy short sleeves.

Balenciaga - I have been waiting breathlessly for Nicolas Ghesquiere to thrill me as he did (now) several seasons ago. I'm still waiting. 16,21,22,23 are fabulous though.

Bruno Pieters - Some of this could be a toned down Yohji (14,15,17,28). Some is just plain jawdropping (2,10,25,26,27,29,31). Wow.

Gaspard Yurkievich - Either all the models are fat or he doesnt cut a very flattering silhouette. The few good pieces seem like theyve been done before (better).

Haider Ackermann - Very dorky 80, bad sci fi. I dont like the shoulders at all. I dont really like his colors or fabrics at all either.

Isabel Marant - I feel like I need to be at that party in LA in Annie Hall? Ya know, the one thrown by the guy played by Paul Simon? I'd be the hottest girl in 3 or 4. Floaty, subtle, simple, sublime. I totally dig these: 16, 19, 31, 38. The random shouts of color are so random, she should have left them out...I'm actually not bored by the rest of her palette because the pieces are so well thought out.

Junya Watanabe - Sleeping bag chic. No really. Some of the jackets look very nice (7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 26). The toned down 'bags look extremely comf (11, 21, 23, 29). The sweaters are amazing (31,32). Actually, the more I look at these, the more perfect everything seems. I think I am most impressed by this collection. So different, so covetable.

Girbaud - Iiiiinteresting pants (4, 10, 43) and jackets (5, 12, 21) and boots (8, 27,45). Is that Mad Max mixed with Edwardian? Whatever it is, I'm so in. The heavy construction of each piece leads to a perfect fit and the right amount of edge. I really loved every single look.

Vivienne Westwood - The very best in punk and deconstruction (21). Wacky ass sweaters, yes, but this outfit is luxe luxe luxe (9). I love all the extraneous ties and belts...it's the luxury version of too many zippers and useless straps (35, 46). They serve no purpose, just to make everything a little tougher, a little less pretty, a little more wrong.

Tuesday, March 02, 2004

Paris (Day 1)

Undercover - Sloppy punk. I can spot a few choice pieces, but it's hard to make a real assessment through the piles of clothes.

Yohji Yamamoto - This is the most Wixlet collection in history. I hope she enjoyed it. I love taking such fussy shapes and making them seem so laid back and easy. I mean, is that calico (2,3,6)? They look so low-maintenance and happy for a Fall collection. I love them. In fact, I want to make them. The built in bags are a little much but maybe theyll be pared down for the store. The dress in 46 is the epitome of cool...the cool girl with a perfect body that doesnt feel the need to prove it.

Y's - Those split skirts are sooooo wrong, but I think I want one sooooo bad. Interesting things with simple white and black shirts. Keep that in mind (1,2,56,58,60).

Monday, March 01, 2004

Milan (Day 5)

Again, sorry for the delay!

Burberry Prorsum - Rich, rumply, belted. The patent coat in photo 14 reminds me of early Tom Ford Gucci. The color, the fit. Very nice. I'm dreaming of belted coats and dresses, for sure.

Dolce and Gabbana - People love to hate the baby doll, but I will forever love it. It's quite flattering to my preferences and it makes your legs look very long. It's surprisingly girlish for the drop dead sexy norm of Dolce and Gabbana. Their talent for creating the crispest, sexiest suits and photos (5,7) does not disappoint. I'm sensing a less matronly Chanel influence, which can never be bad (9,14,31). I only worry that it's a bit toooo Chanel (56,58). These are the perfect pants, however (57). It's hard to criticize such genuinely fun and sexy (get me a thesaurus, stat) clothes.

Fendi - Hard-edged luxe. This bloody purple (5)...oooooooh. Purrrrfect pants (10). Spacey comfort. Each piece looks soooo comfortable - my ideal party clothes.

Jil Sander - Quietly chic. Simple. 18,22,23,31,32 These seem like Natalie Portman dresses. You need to be perfectly pretty to pull off the plainness.

Marni - This is the collection that Miu Miu should have been (2,8,16,24,29,34). All of Miuccia Prada's fingerprints are there, the 50s feel, the vintage charm, the pairing of the ugly with the cheery, the nerd appeal. Marni captured all of this and perfected it. Plus, I want tweedy hotpants more than anything in the world (46). Damn, photo 2 is just everything I want to be on a daily basis this Fall.

Missoni - Like Pucci, it's hard to go wrong with these signature prints. They give instant fun and a vintage appeal, but the design is also pure fun and classy-sexy - very in-the-know without being overdone. (2,3,10,14,27,42,43)

Miu Miu - I wasnt sure of the color scheme until I reached photo 8. The fabric of that skirt and the cut of that coat! Mmm. Perfect Barbie-wear. The rest are some great pieces, but nothing to cry for. I did like 35,40,46 very much, however.

Moschino - I always love the 40s Minnie Mouse look to these clothes. The lavendar legs, the dress in photo 7, ladylike, daring, fun. The prints are so wacky chic (are those women??). I'm desperate for the perfect leopard print investment and some nice bright tights.

Roberto Cavalli - Hideously ugly. Do I really have to look at all 72 photos?! *seriously* ugly.

Versace - It's not fair cuz I'm a sucker for herringbone! And I love it mixed with yellow! But this is just not good. And there should be an award for ugliest hair, makeup, and models. Ick. Just stick with the red carpet gear. I mean, anyone who thinks that 39 and 40 are *fashionable* or even desirable on any level should please leave the room. I think women pro-westlers wouldnt get near that shit. Damn, I spoke too soon. Even her red carpet shit fucking sucks. She should have stuck with her standard two looks that she's been recycling since she took over. Any actress who shows up in 52 should be shot.

Versus - Ill-fitting mid-90s slutty mall crap. Can words describe how awful photos 12 and 13 are?