Thursday, March 04, 2004

Pah-ree (Day 4)

Alexandre Herchcovitch - I only wish the models were smiling, because this is such a fun, whimsical collection. The minnie mouse/bumblebee aesthetic is silly, but the pieces are interesting. I love the bustier over tight t's (4) and girlish, poufy sleeves [what's the name for that?] (8, 11). There's a few moments of 19th century corpses, but the bright ruffles redeem him (24).

Bernhard Willhelm - Hmm. The models are much more interesting than the clothes. Early 90s rave. Eh.

Christian Dior - Pure fantasy. I dont understand why when designers do "fashion" it's so serious and hard and scary, but when Galliano does it, there's humor and skill and insane creativity. The cut, the colors...just perfect for a dream (or a circus)! From the clownish colors to the light as air cotton candy dresses (2,5,10,11, 17, 22, 27). And how do you like those David Byrne suits at the end? I love him.

Comme des Garcons - Dropped shoulder seams, backwards pants...The feminized avant garde men's suits (16,17,18,19). Gathered layering, while not bulky is definitely still odd. I'm not sure how I feel about the short pants over long pants. Skirts over pants I'm fully in support of...It's the same thing with Galliano, you are seeing a vision and you have to imagine the real-life, sellable piece. A slightly toned down version of most of these would be very nice and not even that crazy (1,5,21,28,29,33). Just enough edge to keep us all entertained (or confused).

Costume National - Oooooh. 21st century spy noir! (1,4,7!!!!!). Exotic but not overwhelming. I like the small details, the bows on the trouser cuffs (13), the perfect cut of 14. I see a lot of Tom Ford in these designs (partic his YSL design-style), but that's not a bad look to mimic (that icy but sensual, hard but flirty look) (15,24,34,36,43). I really liked all of this...just for the shear fact of its wearability.

Emanuel Ungaro - First of all, I think I want to dress us all in these clothes. How could any of us be unhappy wearing such happy, dreamy, sexy, flirty, fun, feminine, forward things?! The perfect jacket (1), the perfect bubblegum pink (3,6,7), our new jeans and tshirt (11), dropdead gorgeous florals (16,17,20), light-as-a-feather slink (22,23, 25, 27,28, 30,31,36), the perfect christmas party wear (37), and what I'll be wearing to prom (44). I love every single thing. The colors (the reds and blues!!! oh, but those reds and pinks. red!), the fabrics, the whisper-y cuts. Wow wow wow.

Issey Miyake - You cannot take away my love for tulle (4, 6,76,77). Or for silver, heavily seamed skinny pants (13). Or wacky jackets (31, 35). I've never had much love for lace leggings though. I love the printed (and matching!) boots (59, 73). The prints are so original. They seem like pages of a particularly busily illustrated children's book. The clothes are little-girl-dressup with a whole lot of style.

Jean Paul Gaultier - Freaky sexy, freaky androgyny, freaky homeless-lady-weirdly-baggy coats. I didnt really enjoy this, save for the last dress. Very disappointing, as I usually love his shows.

Lagerfeld Gallery - White rebel chic. Siberian motorcyclist. So hardcore. All skinny rockstar pants with black suede stiletto boots. I think Lagerfeld is vying for the job at YSL. The no-nonsense sex. The butch mixed with the ethereal goddess. Every single photo is pure triple-x fantasy. Unh.

Rochas - Mini-skirted evening wear seems so 60s charming. The laces and darker colors make them seem very now. Very fashion forward. It's a very good compliment that I can picture Kate Moss wearing every single dress. The shoes and gloves give an added kooky sophistication. 9, 14, 20, 26, 39. The heavily structured tulle ballgowns are just pure imagination. 38, 44. A feast of the best in evening, if you like a little Mod in your glamour.

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