Monday, October 11, 2004

Paris Fashion Week - Day 5c

Akris - So hiply elegant. Not the slightest bit, appropriate girl in the office. Tissue-thin evening wear - photo 34 is jaw-dropping.

Alexander McQueen - Breathtakingly cute. So many different skirts, nipped-waist jackets, fabrics from another time (many different times). Baby doll ballerinas and manga girls.

Chanel - Ooooh supermodels! And matching tweed ties for tweed suits! Coatdresses and capris, 80s French girls, gorgeous laces. Beautiful and classic and cool.

Chloe - crunchy-glam-kinda boring. It's like what a model wears to look like she's not trying to hard or stuck on herself. She doesnt fool anyone.

Christian Lacroix - Seriously toned down Lacroix. It's very pretty, just not what I expect from him. This seems more like Chloe to me. The multi-colored and mismatching fabrics on the gowns is lovely though...very muted and not overwhelming.

John Galliano - Farm girls, bonnets, gold newsprint...hmm. But beautiful coats, seriously cool dresses and bikinis. It's a tossup. Oh wait, the finale dress. Mmmm, I could eat it.

Lanvin - I have a crush on that first dress, and the Audrey-esque dresses are nice, but I could leave the jackets.

Louis Vuitton -

Martin Margiela -

Nina Ricci -

Rick Owens -

Rochas -

Sonia Rykel -

Valentino -

YSL Rive Gauche -

Saturday, October 09, 2004

Paris Fashion Week - Day 5b

Ann Demuelmeester - Rebel rebel. Shredded jackets, stringy and drapey skirts. Though, another collection that's better as a Fall.

Celine - So very un-Michael Kors. Nice prints, confidently pretty, slightly prim, youthful. Like a 60s dancer in her off hours or Selma Blair. I was looking forward to this show and am impressed.

Hussein Chalayan - A little droopy, but the stringy black dresses and floaty florals at the end are just gorgeous.

Martin Grant - The most perfect work clothes I've seen. Shirt dresses, suits with full skirts, knee length pant suits. Just classic and beautiful. Loooooove.

Thursday, October 07, 2004

Paris Fashion Week - Days 3 and 4

Andrew Gn - Complicated simplicity. Subtle luxury. I love the mini belted coats - I feel that Jeannie wore them...or maybe just Kate Moss.

Christian Dior - Ooooooooh. So soft and London-girl-mixed-up, but pretty and 60s and just nice. Never sugar, but girly and cool. Then sexed-up Frency for evening. And that's a fabulous suit on John.

Commes des Garcon - I'm cuckoo for tutus - like an apron with oomph. Not so crazy for the British judge wigs.

Costume National - Tribal YSL. Sexy, drapey, but even so - kind of boring, though I'd take a pair of Disco pants any day.

Dries van Noten - Peasanty bland.

Emanuel Ungaro - Swingy, fluffy, cuuuuuute, sexy. Perfect. The skirts, the cuffed trousers, fun and sexy but not overtly.

Helmut Lang - I'm usu a little bored with Helmut, but this time his dresses are pretty cool and his jackets are so well-tailored, but still very modern and unique.

Jean Paul Gaultier - Elise Crombez is totally my favorite model right now. She's more cool than pretty - which I guess is very Kate Moss too...actually, she looks like a European Scarlett Johansson. Cancan ruffles, trenches

Lagerfeld Gallery - Peekaboo tulle for day and full-blown layers of tulle for evening. Boyish "ties" used as wide belts. Some devastatingly hideous blouses - peekaboo shoulders? Umm no. That's an invention that I will never forgive Donna Karan for...her name for such a style is just as terrible: The Cold Shoulder. The gowns were sufficiently glamourous...sort of down-scaled Chanel.

Sophia Kokosalaki - Innocent, unassumingly complicated. Lots of draping, texture. In other fabrics and colors, I'd be more excited, though I want almost every piece.

Stella McCartney - Breezily sophisticated. Unfussy. I love the big thick bows and negligee (not at all lingerie) for evening.

Veronique Branquinho - This would make a much better Fall collection. The fabrics and colors seem so heavy, I feel stifled just imagining wearing them on an 80degree day. Boxy and mainly curve-concealing, it just doesnt feel like Spring. In spite of that, I love photos 22-24, but for THIS FALL!

Viktor & Rolf - Blouses, belts, trenches, short man's trousers - I really love it all. I feel like they're usu concept over wearability, but this is all great. Suits with bows, gowns encased in ribbons, looooooove.

Vivienne Westwood - Industrial, a little military, a little girly, some trompe l'oeil. Art-school chic with the most fantastic shoes. Her cropped trousers are the coolest of the cool - how do they flare out like that? Is it just the fabric? (Photo 42)

Tuesday, October 05, 2004

Paris Fashion Week - Days 1 and 2

AF Vandevorst - Very LES cool. Not sure if runway-worthy.

Balenciaga - Wide pants, nautical themes, bondage-heavy YSL girl.

Charles Anastase - The ugliest and worst dressed little girl since Jon Benet.

Gaspard Yurkievich - No pictures.

Junya Watanabe - Avant garde prairie. I'm certainly never going to be pretty enough to pull this off.

Undercover - Frumpy and sacklike.

Yohji Yamamoto - Pretty avant garde. Suits to die for (22).

Friday, October 01, 2004

Milan Fashion Week - Days 2-4 (part 2)

ALESSANDRO DELL'ACQUA - Rich hippy, form-fitting suits, truly hideous pants (photo 18). Not too exciting.

ANTONIO BERARDI - Pretty, complicated suits and dresses that remind me of Alexander McQueen. Funny models-practicing hats. I'm crazy for all the jackets. *Crazy*

Dolce & Gabbana - The Dolce version of ladylike. The lady that is having an affair with her 18 year old son's best friend. The suit in photo 51 is like Sandy at the end of Grease, but ready for work. Everything is so wearable and workable but shyness is not allowed.

Etro - More rich hippie. This time not cute in addition to not exciting.

Gianfranco Ferre - A little too Claude Montana and a lot too bland. Even with the severity of the suits, I'm still bored. Even the "shocking" vulgarity of photo 28 (which is the definition of hideous) is a little yawn. Passing moments of YSL, but with none of the sophistication.

Giorgio Armani - 123 photos? Youve got to be kidding. I hate the hats. Some asian inspired dresses, some awful 80s bathing suits, blah blah blah. Some pretty sparkles at the end. I'm exhausted.

Gucci - Tom Fordian, in a good way. Autumn-like, in a confused way. The thick belts are quite interesting. Loved it. I think the new designer is quite on-track.

Jil Sander - Simply strange wallflowers. This girl also buys a lot of Prada. The intellectual Italian girl who shuns the sex-pots.

La Perla - Lots of lace, lots of black-white-nude. I picture Monica Bellucci, a serious, sensual, mysterious, slightly older woman. A little room for flirting, but, honey, she dont need to.

MaxMara - Ladylike mixed with African safari. I'm reading that the pants looked like diapers, but that's hard to see in the photos. I'm pretty against diaper-esque pants, though, I think.

Missoni - Prettiest prints, the slimmest cuts. Sexy Italian von Furstenberg. I'm dying for the sweater in photo 36.

Miu Miu - Funkiest jet-setter in 1963. Boxy suits and clingy dresses. Perfect couch prints, appliques, shiny coat dreses. Coooool.

Moschino - More funky 60s. A good extension of Miu Miu. Picnic prints here, though, and cotton lace petticoats. Photo 38 nnnhhh.

Moschino Cheap & Chic - Psycho Hawaii. I'll pass.

Prada - Such a style change...more tomboy teen than ladylike prim. The cool, confident girl who is nice to everyone but friends with no one. Effortlessly cool and pretty.

Roberto Cavalli - 88 pictures. Here, I'll take a wild guess: obnoxiously sexy Paris Hilton wear. Am I right?

Versace - The most toned-down Ive ever seen Versace. This looks more like Michael Kors than anything (a very big compliment...). The sexiest knee-length shorts ever produced, and dont worry, plenty o cleavage.

Milan Fashion Week - Days 2-4

Alberta Ferretti - Slinky ladylike, lovely colors. A sort of heavy opulence that I'm undecided on. The shredded gowns are just gorgeous though (photos 41 and 43). If celebs (I mean their stylists) were smart, we'd see all of these on the red carpet.

Anna Molinari - Always the most beautiful blues. She makes clothes that seem like they're the wacky/trendy bits from any time period. Everything has a vintage feel, without seeming dated or tied to a specific time period. I'm not sold on the ruffles at hip level and poufs at thigh level for the average girl, but she just makes very Italian, very beautiful pieces. The lingerie pieces manage to look very elegant - never trashy or overtly sexual, even when see-through. Photos 8, 30, and 33 are my favorites.

Bottega Veneta - BV is real luxury. No showy labels or styles, just a look that screams Lush and Rich and Old Money. Hermes is a dream, but BV is what I would want every single day. Yes, I'm dreaming of handbags again. How cute are photos 21, 26, 27? So refreshing to just see pretty clothes without all the bindings of "ladylike".

Burberry Prorsum - Pastels, pretty clothes, nothing to criticize. All the perfectly pretty has realllllly gotten old. Floral print jackets are nice. Truly hideous lame dresses though in photos 18 and 19. Eww and skirts too. If I hadnt looked at the designer, I would guess this to be Donatella's Versus. Not a compliment.

D&G - 50s style Hawaii, but all sexed-up with some 60s style. Photo 6 is so sweet until you notice that all you're seeing is skin. Scandalous! I like that D&G is always a hodgepodge, like you'd never buy a full outfit. Just like, a blue-green sequined skirt (photo 9) or floral print short-shorts (photo 10). Where else would you find such a thing? How can you criticize this much fun?

DSquared - Sexy suits and jackets for a girl who doesnt work in an office. I think their jackets are seriously original and crave-worthy - the best thing theyve got. Beyond that, a little trashy. Though I looooooove short-shorts. Just maybe not on me.

Fendi - While I enjoyed the prints and colors and basic simplicity, there doesnt seem to be a definite image or style at Fendi...even though I know it's Karl Lagerfeld. It doesnt scream out Fendi the way Chanel does, and I'm not talking about logos. I do love photos 13, 35, 53. The crazy print pants are completely unwearable and there are wayyyy too many of them. You just now you'll see this on aging EuroTrash in 6 months and I'm not looking forward to it.