Tuesday, March 13, 2007


If you have a spare half-hour, this is a truly excellent peek into Karl Lagerfeld's world.

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Days 7-8

Hermes - Luxe leather jackets and coats, of course, formal suits and dresses, but still a little motorcycle edge.

Chloe - This seems like a collection of Chloe knockoffs in sensible colors. The charm is gone, the detailing. Too simple, too minimal, too not that cute.

Martin Grant - Proper Hepburn-esque (both of em) trousers and skirts. Adorably wacky - but not cloying - cocktail dresses.

Antonio Berardi - Beautifully (and slightly dangerous) tailored suits and dresses, kimono sleeves and tight bodices.

John Galliano - Like creepy dolls found in the attic. Louise Brooks and Marlene Dietrich dolls. Lots of ruffles, rosettes, and dust.

Nina Ricci - A new label and a new look for Olivier Theyskens. Still long skirts, but less New Romantic and more Wood Nymph. Less costume (which is a negative to me) and more modern, natural beautiful woman.

Elie Saab - Are gothic french maids in our red carpet future? Full sheer sleeves and wide black leather belts are certainly not what I expected. Pleasantly surprised with the changes.

Collette Dinnigan - Nice, pretty clothes. Dresses and trousers for a serious girl.

Louis Vuitton - Non-flapper 20s girls in a long, lean silhouette. Wide belts and classy lengths, nothing overtly sexy, but everything overtly pretty.

Lanvin - Left Bank chic, without the 70s sexiness. Jewel-toned dresses over skinny black trousers. Black satin pencil skirts and ruffle-necked blouses.

Miu Miu - Full 50s skirts, proper skirt suits in improper leather and seriously improper sheers.

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Days 5-6

Stella McCartney - The first half was a little bland. Oversized shoulders on christmas sweaters and rather asexual (though mini) suits. Things started to look up with the advent of the party dresses, but ended far too quickly.

Emanuel Ungaro - Ohhh la la! Disco slink, sexy puffy jackets, grecian draped minidresses - a sexier Sophia Kokosalaki. The coziest fur pullover I've ever seen.

Celine - The perfectly icy Parisian woman. All-business wool or satin dresses with defined waists, an untouchably sexy black suit with black satin shirt.

Haider Ackermann - Painted on leggings, cropped 80s style jackets, lifeless dresses. All very Tilda Swinton-y. Weird yet boring.

YSL Rive Gauche - Elegant, meticulously put-together, but I feel a tad too *modern day* Catherine Deneuve. The sweet minidress take on le smoking, is wonderful though.

Jasmine Di Milo - So much going on, but so sexy and sleek. Definitely cool-girl. Poufy party dresses - maybe a tad over the top, but still fun, and slim little strapless numbers - just right.

Chanel - Perfect tweed suit dresses, borderline obnoxious leather and plaid separates, and gorgeous beribboned and be-laced cocktail dresses with funky little bib necklaces.

Sonia Rykiel - Dreamy sweaterdresses and much-too-sexy laces, ruffles. It's not hard to get excited again for Fall.

Giambattista Valli - White turtlenecks under sexy manly black suits, low-cut sweaters, and the most charming ruffles I've seen. Necklines and bodices and just elegant.

Rue du Mail - Serious little suits and dresses with funny little tipped or rose-gathered hems.

Bruno Pieters - Rounded hems, somber suits, glamourous 50s gold strapless.

Alexander McQueen - Molded bodices of the most impeccable tailoring, molded bodices actually made of sculpture. Fantastically nightmarish hoods and fabrics and Cleopatra-eyes. Dark dreamy.

Friday, March 09, 2007

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Day 4

Costume National - Gorgeous work-uniform dressing: pencil skirts, funnel-necked tunics, satin dresses. Curiously wonderful details.

Andrew Gn - Black and white tweed, feathers, and ruffles. A little hohum with some standout minidresses.

Akris - Polished workwear. Futuristic military suits and dresses, exaggerated turtlenecks. Slick and cool.

Valentino - Perfect fall wear for perfect ladies. Brown tweeds, quilted skirts, proper gloves. A balance of pure sexiness and utter elegance, as expected.

Dries Van Noten - Quilted satins, a limp silhouette, a tad depressing.

Christian Lacroix - Gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous. Those full sleeves, defined waists, jewel and fur details. Cozy sweaters. The most covetable dresses and tiny jackets. Elegant and cooool.

Loewe - Leather and suede and stiff satin, but in a ladylike manner. Full sleeved tunics and sexy dresses.

Sophia Kokosalaki - I dont know the type of fabric she uses, or if it's the method of her draping that gives the satin so much texture. Beautiful dresses, sexy trenches.

Veronique Branquinho - Yawn. Expensive, polished-looking Mexican panchos. Pass.

Givenchy - Ooooh, those wide-legged trousers, almost sailor pants. Tight navy business dresses. Polished, but not stodgy.

Hussein Chalayan - Architectural dresses, fun stripes with mismatching striped aprons, pvc legging/boots, and one magically lit dress. Gorge.

Karl Lagerfeld - Some suits (nice), some dresses (ok), some excitement (no).

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Day 3

Balenciaga - WOAH. 100% departure from last season's C3PO. Not that I have a problem with this. The trousers look just plain perfect. I like a skinny leg, nerdy ankle cropping, and those roomy hip pockets. Oooh, that looks comfortable. Some more patchworking and bondage belts. Sexy and comfy.

Junya Watanabe - Sexy motorcycle jackets, cropped and wrapped and wrongly put together but so very cool cardigans. The dresses and plaids are nice. Though maybe I'd pass on the Gestapo-y leather trenches.

Vivienne Westwood - I cant fully figure out the pieces that make up this outfit, a skirt? leggings? corset? cardigan? But dont you want to look exactly like this, exactly this cool, this sexy, all the time??

Or this?

Jean Paul Gaultier - If I hadnt double-checked, I would think this was the Vivienne show and her's was the Gaultier. Both are hot though. Lotsa plaid here and spygirl trenches and did I say how hot this is?

Ann Demeulmeester - If I overlook the world's ugliest models (and, yes, I realize that *some* of them are men), some gothy dramatic high-necked coats and beautiful pouf skirts.

Commes des Garcons - I love every bit of this - even though it's a bit Springy. Skin-tight knits, ruffles, stuffed hands, black bunny ears, fluorescent eyeshadow. It sounds like a recipe for disaster, but instead it's comfy, sexy, fun, and funny. What more can you ask of something as silly as fashion?

Christian Dior - 40s suits, full but womanly skirts, exaggerated fur details, defined waists. The colors, the dresses, the drama. Just perfect. Wearable straight off the runway. A hint of the decadence from the Couture show, but less dreamy and more realistic (except, I'm sure one's ability to buy them).