Balmain - Feathers, fringe, and metals. The best are the Balenciaga-futurism minidresses with sculpted shoulders. The lowslung trousers look sexy and comfortable, though a little overdone and not very new.
Rick Owens - More sleeping bags, but this time with the actual silhouette of wearing a sleeping bag over your shoulders. With Himalayan yak boots. Ok, I dont actually know if it's yak fur, but you'll see what I mean. The sculpted cropped jackets toward the end are a bit more interesting and could really be great paired with someone else's clothes. Leather is his strength, just dont get too Free Tibet with your look.
Dice Kayek - Dramatic shoulders and sleeves, pinched waists, and full pleated skirts. A mix of hard-edges and dreamy curves.
Wunderkind - 30s English countryside, with hair in frizzy loose buns and what seem to be ankle length golf pants. The winners are the slinky gowns.
Isabel Marant - At first glance, just looks like more frumpy layers. On closer inspection, there are some great pieces. The pleated minis are just the right amount of volume, the boxy jackets are great Fall coverups, and some cute minidresses hidden around.
Maison Martin Margiela - Giant David Byrne boxy shoulders. These spongy Mos Eisley pocketed capes could be interesting (though maybe not suitable for subway cars).
Undercover - Cozy-looking space age knits and boxy jackets and maybe the worst use of feathers I've seen. Oh, and coordinating earmuffs, of course.
Viktor & Rolf - Due to the built-in spotlights, it's difficult for me to imagine how many of these clothes will actually hang on a body. The lower parts and prints are quite nice, but it's difficult to make an actual observation. The capris and high-necked plaid blouses look new and flattering, while the blousy wide-collared white shirts look expensive and polished.
AF Vandevorst - A bit of a Native American shaman vibe - with the makeup, feathers, and blanket coats and wraps. Also, prairie necked blouses and loose shirt dresses. An unsexy and un-charming Anna Sui, perhaps.
Yohji Yamamoto - Logo-ed leather trim and trousers, full layered ruffled cancan skirts over cuffed trousers. More body-conscious and wearable (less concept-y) than usual.