Monday, July 09, 2007

Couture - Autumn/Winter 2007-2008

Since the last round of shows, I've had a baby. For the next few seasons, I can only imagine that I'll be delayed or completely incomplete in coverage.

Anne Valerie Hash - I've never really been a fan, but this collection looks just right. It's elegant and posh and a little too to be mistaken for RTW. Gathered shoulder seams and full sleeves, plunging necklines that maintain their class, jewel-tone satins, and sexy le smokings.

Chanel - Oh so right. Sexy, futuristic, sleek - which seems very un-Chanel, yet still pretty and luxurious and fantastic. Lagerfeld is always a surprise and the more I learn about him, the more he inspires. Feathers, fringe, gemstone beading, tight-fitting hoods, there's something very romantic to all the details, but the pieces themselves are so body-conscious and streamlined.

Christian Dior - Full-skirted fantasy, purely Couture. I dream less about having these clothes and more about having the life that would require something so beautiful and special.

Christian Lacroix - Bejewelled and beruffled form-fitting gowns. Mysterious romanticism, acidy colors, slightly toned down styles, but not lacking in opulence.

Elie Saab - Pretty pretty dresses, elegant but not stiff draping. The shorter styles are definitely best, with the longer a little cliched.

Giorgio Armani Prive - Beauuuuuutiful skirts, but not so Couture-y.

Givenchy - While troubled by the garish yak and leopard costumes (a leopard hat! yipes!), I found the Mad Max-ian trousers and straps and drapes to be quite fetching.

Jean Paul Gaultier - A futruristic, royal military with strange little hair-covered wire crowns. Sexy hard shoulders, skinny trousers, and corset dresses. Not a bit flirty, but completely sexed up.

Roland Mouret - While lacking in the showmanship and fantasy of Couture, some pretty dresses that I cant ignore.

Valentino - Pretty suits and elegant cocktail dresses, though a slightly older demographic than I was prepared for. A tad disappointing, what with all the Valentino hype at the moment. The final gown is gorge, however.

Tuesday, March 13, 2007


If you have a spare half-hour, this is a truly excellent peek into Karl Lagerfeld's world.

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Days 7-8

Hermes - Luxe leather jackets and coats, of course, formal suits and dresses, but still a little motorcycle edge.

Chloe - This seems like a collection of Chloe knockoffs in sensible colors. The charm is gone, the detailing. Too simple, too minimal, too not that cute.

Martin Grant - Proper Hepburn-esque (both of em) trousers and skirts. Adorably wacky - but not cloying - cocktail dresses.

Antonio Berardi - Beautifully (and slightly dangerous) tailored suits and dresses, kimono sleeves and tight bodices.

John Galliano - Like creepy dolls found in the attic. Louise Brooks and Marlene Dietrich dolls. Lots of ruffles, rosettes, and dust.

Nina Ricci - A new label and a new look for Olivier Theyskens. Still long skirts, but less New Romantic and more Wood Nymph. Less costume (which is a negative to me) and more modern, natural beautiful woman.

Elie Saab - Are gothic french maids in our red carpet future? Full sheer sleeves and wide black leather belts are certainly not what I expected. Pleasantly surprised with the changes.

Collette Dinnigan - Nice, pretty clothes. Dresses and trousers for a serious girl.

Louis Vuitton - Non-flapper 20s girls in a long, lean silhouette. Wide belts and classy lengths, nothing overtly sexy, but everything overtly pretty.

Lanvin - Left Bank chic, without the 70s sexiness. Jewel-toned dresses over skinny black trousers. Black satin pencil skirts and ruffle-necked blouses.

Miu Miu - Full 50s skirts, proper skirt suits in improper leather and seriously improper sheers.

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2007-8, Days 5-6

Stella McCartney - The first half was a little bland. Oversized shoulders on christmas sweaters and rather asexual (though mini) suits. Things started to look up with the advent of the party dresses, but ended far too quickly.

Emanuel Ungaro - Ohhh la la! Disco slink, sexy puffy jackets, grecian draped minidresses - a sexier Sophia Kokosalaki. The coziest fur pullover I've ever seen.

Celine - The perfectly icy Parisian woman. All-business wool or satin dresses with defined waists, an untouchably sexy black suit with black satin shirt.

Haider Ackermann - Painted on leggings, cropped 80s style jackets, lifeless dresses. All very Tilda Swinton-y. Weird yet boring.

YSL Rive Gauche - Elegant, meticulously put-together, but I feel a tad too *modern day* Catherine Deneuve. The sweet minidress take on le smoking, is wonderful though.

Jasmine Di Milo - So much going on, but so sexy and sleek. Definitely cool-girl. Poufy party dresses - maybe a tad over the top, but still fun, and slim little strapless numbers - just right.

Chanel - Perfect tweed suit dresses, borderline obnoxious leather and plaid separates, and gorgeous beribboned and be-laced cocktail dresses with funky little bib necklaces.

Sonia Rykiel - Dreamy sweaterdresses and much-too-sexy laces, ruffles. It's not hard to get excited again for Fall.

Giambattista Valli - White turtlenecks under sexy manly black suits, low-cut sweaters, and the most charming ruffles I've seen. Necklines and bodices and just elegant.

Rue du Mail - Serious little suits and dresses with funny little tipped or rose-gathered hems.

Bruno Pieters - Rounded hems, somber suits, glamourous 50s gold strapless.

Alexander McQueen - Molded bodices of the most impeccable tailoring, molded bodices actually made of sculpture. Fantastically nightmarish hoods and fabrics and Cleopatra-eyes. Dark dreamy.