Thursday, February 26, 2004

Milan (Day 2 and 3 and 4)

Bottega Veneta - I need this type of sleepy sweater (9) to laze about in but still maintain the idea of style. 26 is the essence of chic...not that I'm crazy about fur, but this has a vintage-y vibe, so I'll let it pass. Overall, I just love the nude mixed with bright colors. I'm crazy for nude right now. I hate my skintone, so wearing nude colors makes me feel perfectly complected. And who can say no to green shoes, I ask?

D&G - Not sexy enough for my D&G expectations, but the layering of colors and design in 16 is very lust-worthy. The coat in 31 is soooooooo fantabulous. Seriously, the color, the bow, the lining. You could wear that for the next 30 years and never be bored or boring.

DSquared2 - I will never be excited for lumberjacks. The cut of their pants seems very nice tho (6,26). That chocolate satin is dreamy of course (42) and with the belt, it reminds me a little of Tracy's wedding dress in The Philadelphia Story.

Emilio Pucci - Oh! These suits are wild, but there's something elegant and wearable about them even though theyre so unconservative (3,4,8). The dresses are a dream (7,12,19,24,28,36,38,40)...even something as small as the patterned tights could make the largest impact on any wardrobe (10). I feel these prints are amazingly timeless and the shade of the colors are so perfectly fall. Lacroix cuts a mean flirt. These arent for boring pretty girls.

Emporio Armani - 87 fucking photos?! The black pants are exactly as I like. Tight tight tight with a little flare at the hem and with the hem noticeably too short. I like the black tights underneath too. The jackets are way 80s cheese (and not in a good way by any means). The fabrics too seem a bit dated...the shiny pewter and velvet. I think it's very hard to cut a modern velvet piece. Who's that girl singing onstage?

Gucci - Tom Ford's final show for Gucci. I still dream of owning pieces from his first shows. His referenced eras are so instantly recognizable, but they are almost always fresh and modern. He knows nothing if not what women covet. First of all, those sunglasses! Second, the jacket in 10...I want those structured elbows! The crazy pants in 22 and 23!! The pure sultry sexiness of 31 And even though I care nothing for men's fashion - I LOVE 37! It's a little wrong and could be a total nightmare, but with the right amounts of pretty and scruffy it will be perfect. He's a lot of flash, but he has done so much good! *And* he's from Texas. Sniff.

MaxMara - Simple. I like pants tucked in boots. I hate this plaid: 27. Not much else to say.

Prada - I'm not digging the ultra-rounded busts (8,10). But I will never get tired of her 50s Italian aesthetic (12,19)(why did The Talented Mr Ripley have to look so good but be so bad [the movie, that is. the book is excellent]??). The higher waistlines are a nice change, as are her not-so-precise prints and colors (26,28,33,55). I think this started last season with the seemingly-handpainted full skirts. The coats are exquisite in a Grandmother's castoff sort of way (23,29,49).

The only one slower about posting these reviews is VogueUK!! This is crazy!

Tuesday, February 24, 2004

Milan (Day 1)

Alberta Ferretti - Her clothes always make me think of a sexy Italian widow. Antique lace and tulle pulled out of a trunk and fashioned into an elegant but youthful charm. The clothing of a long dead girl or a ghost, a la Dark Shadows. I am *aching* for her dresses. 13,16,28,29,44,48,49,50,52

Alessandro Dell Acqua - I love midnight velvet! I feel his coats are a little bulky and that the show didnt have much of a theme or style. I like the idea of so many of the pieces more than the reality. Something about the fit or the color or the style always screwed up the pleasure. It's just never a good sign when the clothes arent flattering to the models.

Anna Molinari - I always love her designs for Blumarine as the colors and fabrics and cuts are so ethereal, but here the collection is so heavy. Even the wisps of 17 and 30 seem stiff and grave. 38,45,48 are an improvement - I will kill for the coat in 38...I love the golds and purples (of course).

Giorgio Armani - Man, 101 photos! Man, a lot of black! Yawn. I'm not crazy about this 80s silhouette...long jacket, long skirt. The weird pants/skirt/shoes all in matching blah grey/brown is ick. I'm so bored! It's never going to end! Even the shocking pink at the end couldnt wake me.

Lawrence Steele - Some gorgeous coats and prints. I am a bit iffy about the fit of certain pieces, but the girlish charm of the rest sways me. The colors and floaty fabrics are such a welcome departure from the depressing (and boring to the eye) black. His coats look so cozy and cool - eccentric pieces that will become the owner's signature. 9,11,12,21,26, oh yes.

Pollini - Rifat Ozbek - I'm not sure how I could possibly respect anyone who likes those boots. They make all of the models appear to have gigantic knees and thighs! Just imagine what a regular girl would look like?! 6,11,12 are nice in a Gypsy schoolgirl way. I want to hug that sweater in 16 and I will walk over you to get my hands on 20. I want that to be my signature jacket! Over jeans, a tiny miniskirt, a long slip! I want it. I really like the old-fashioned fit and feel of this whole bit.

Sunday, February 22, 2004

London is Dead (day 5)

The final two London shows are surprisingly worth the wait. They're both so fresh and so young and so silly.

Red or Dead - How much fun to wear that poodle suit in the most buttoned-up of meetings? Or just those glorious tights and sweater? I'm a sucker for ugly/pretty and a chance to flash some leg.

Zakee Shariff - I will say that I love that wallpaper more than the collection, but only because that wallpaper is so spooky perfect. I love the bit of print peeking through the pleat in 12. I had a dream a few months ago about a pleated skirt with a similar peeking-through fabric idea.

Friday, February 20, 2004

London (Day 4)

Ghost - Simple sportswear, complicated jacket (10). The grey shoes are lovely (14). 19 – 70s sportswear chic. I’m really digging the cut of these pants (23) 33, 34, 35, 36 – the colors and cuts are just lovely.

Julien Macdonald - A little 70s dumb kitten (5). The kitten collars and wide lapel trenches could never be wrong. His colors are on fire, so warm and sexy (12,13,18,19). 35 is just lovely for an iceskating party. Why don’t people have iceskating parties?

Miki Fukai - It reminds me a bit of my beloved brand Label. 14 is quite interesting too.

Pringle - The greens and leather belts are quite properly off (3,5,13). I always fall for knickers. I had a similar pair in sky blue corduroy in 2nd grade (17). Bubble gum pink makes them irresistible. I’m so digging the twinset remade as sweater and scarf, especially argyle (11,22). Very wearable sophisticated school girl gear.

Robert Cary-Williams - Bulky goth. I’m reminded of broken antique dolls and that freaks me out.

Wednesday, February 18, 2004

London (day 3)

Allegra Hicks - Proper British suitings and slightly off tailoring. Please see 2, 10, 15, 24, 52 for details. This is how I would love to be.

Betty Jackson - Direct your attention to 1,7,15,36,43. Kind of middle-aged lady, but stressing the lady part. Well-made and unboring.

Eley Kishimoto - 1- yes yes yes yes yes, the style, the cut, the print. I live and die by the apron (4). 44 is almost a christmas sweater and it scares me that a seemingly cool brand could have produced such a piece of shit. 39,40 are the sexy cocktail waitress that you aspire to be whenever you sing "dont, dont you want me". The shoes in 35 are so 1994 YSL, that I may cry. Shoes such as these (though in gorgeous midnight blue with gold soles) were the star of a YSL ad that became my first magazine ripping (single tear). It was part of my wall collage for most of college years.

Fashion East-Ebru Ercon - I always wonder, does sloppy draping and bland colors all you need to be a designer? Some shows (like this) make me certain that I could do this industry.

Jasper Conran - Wow. 5,9,10,31,33,35. I usu hate all blacks and whites (hard for me to see), but this just looks so crisp and cool and a little scary-tough. Those boots are fucking amazing and the hair, the hair! I love.

Jonathan Saunders - Eww.

Nicole Farhi - Please click directly to 1,17,39,41,45,50. Simple and lovely. Delicate, but solid pieces. I love the smoky/dusty quality to the black velvet and whatever fabric that is in 44 and 45. Again, it's like something pulled out of a 20s steamer trunk. I think you would always be the prettiest, subtlest, most put-together girl in all of these.

Preen - 5 and 29 are nice, but a little to unwearably layered and blandly Helmut Lang.

Rafael Lopez - The jacket in photo 1 has just taken over as Most Coveted Suit Jacket from the herringbone, puffy sleeved Yohji from last fall (photo 36). An interesting lot of jackets and sailor dresses, but see 13 and 14 for sexy cool.

Sophia Kokosalaki - A little diff to see, but the twisting and gathering and rich colors and tight fit are just perfect (1,2,3). I'm sure up close, the detail is even more impressive.

Tata-Naka - I didnt know I could be so ok with gypsy. It's never my favorite look, but I like the paisley of 6, the simple but wrong elegance, sportswear styling of 7, the lush browns and layerings of 8, and the sweetly sexy bubblegum lingerie look of 26.

Tuesday, February 17, 2004

On to London (day 1 and 2)

Arkadius - some wearable. a lot awkward.

Ben de Lisi - The dresses are floaty, dreamy. Everything else is Wet Seal cheese. And Photo 50 is in the running for worst outfit in history.

Bora Aksu - So very Dr Who sidekick. He layers while maintaining a slim silhouette. Photo 5 is the perfect Autumn dress...let's go lay out in the park. Can you go wrong with 70s-era SciFi? One problem, though, he somehow made the models appear to have gigantic thighs and calves. I hope it's just the lighting/angle.

Boudicca - No.

ChenPascual - Eh.

Clements Ribeiro - Fuuuuun prints. I love this evil chevron sweater in photo 13. The modern flapper styles, leopard print, and wacky stripes make these clothes all appear vintage. How weird that wacky can seem timeless.

Emma Cook - I like the opposing fits of her dresses (5, 7, 21). The applique concept seems a little un-fresh, as it's so linked with Nicholas Ghesquire.

Fashion East-Alistair Carr - 4,13,14 are all pretty cool, but maybe I actually like the socks best? Not bad at all though. If he had more funding for more looks and perhaps better fabrics, this would be really great.

Fashion East-Richard Nicholl - Baggy lumberjack, mulleted pickup driver, I dont want to look like any of this.

FrostFrench - A more substantial collection for them, yes, but also less fun and girlish. I always like their knits and everything here is very rough. Definitely original, just not my aesthetic perhaps.

Gharani Strok - Too Gucci/Tom Ford YSL. Nothing bad, just doesnt seem so orig.

Gibo - Weird hats. Hardly my favorite. Not too memorable, unless you're crazy about raincoats.

Giles Deacon - Every outfit seems so wrong, but I want it all. The chaos of styles works for a girl who loves dressup and doesnt mind a bit of costume. The big prints of 1, 19, 23 are dramatic but not overpowering. And his surprisingly sexy caftans are quite thought-provoking. I think it's all in the fabric...

House of Jazz - Drapey. Blah.

Jenny Packham - Snow globe chic. I also feel like I'm trapped in some insane-bizarro-circus. The colors are so rich, the fabrics so bright, the cut so floaty. These are all trapeze artist or snow globe figurine and I want to be that girl so badly. I really love it all. Inventive and artistic and wearable. Loooooove: 2,4,6,7,9,10,15,17,20,21,26,32.

Jens Laugesen - Slightly SciFi but not as covetable. He's more Calvin Klein bland and Helmut Lang layered. Not enough of an identity.

John Rocha - Very dramatic post-apocalypse. I like the idea of scavenging together disparate materials and fashioning them together frankenstein-style, esp if they turn out as well as 11,18, 23. His silhouette is so tall and thin and vaguely prim. I really crave 3 and 40.

Katarzyna Szczotarska - WTF with the eyeshadow? Blah and clumsy and apparently ill-fitting.

Paul Smith - The ribbon detail on the suit in photo 18. The hardness and softness of photos 45, 48, 51 (my favorite). But this collection isnt Paul Smithy enough for me.

PPQ - Perhaps it's only the makeup, but I feel this is how Eastern European business girls must dress. A little cheesy (leggings!) peg bundy and slightly ill-fitting.

Temperley - I love the black and pink and scalloped hems. All romantic sophistication without a smidgen of bland and wearably far from over-the-top.

New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 5)

Sorry for the delay!

Behnaz Sarafpour - Ooooh. Her show makes me love fashion and it's so nice to see a youthfully hip female designer making quality contributions. It's a very Prada-esque collection, but much more Audrey Hepburn than nerdy, eccentric Italian kitten. Both designers definitely share an intelligent approach to design - there's nothing frivolous and nothing that you wouldnt dream of owning. Especially if you like to dream in 40s films. Photos 3, 8, 17, and 27 are at the top of my list. Chocolate satin is the perfect Fall It item. She's a former Asst Designer to Isaac Mizrahi and, thankfully, you can always feel his influence in her designs.

Calvin Klein - Mmm. More chocolate satin...I know this doesnt make sense and perhaps it's just the angularity of the models, but the draping here seems very harsh and very disco manly. Some of the looks are ridiculously and awkwardly mannish (photo 15), but a few of the evening looks are familiar Calvin Klein (39).

Donna Karan - A very gothic Donna. I actually adore 18, 20 - the patterns and style seem so un-Donna and so very Westwood. She seems to have picked up quite a lot of the inspiration of her fellow designers. And how fabulous and decidedly un-frumpy and un-Barbra does she look?!

Jeffrey Chow - Burnished gold pants (7) - sooooo Autumn. I like the scarves and fragility of his designs. Usually such a characteristic annoys me, as your friend who cant stand up for herself and always appears meek annoys you, but here they are elegant and breezy.

Ralph Lauren - I think photo 2 maybe the most horrid outfit I have ever seen in my life. The color is atrocious, the material looks cheap, and how fucking cheesy is that belt?! And off-the-shoulder?! This is 80s-working woman absolute nightmare crap. Ick.

Ralph Rucci Chado - Middle aged, 80s blah. Perhaps he's so unflashy, I miss his talent. I dont know. I try, but I'm just. too. bored.

United Bamboo - If I had to wear suits to work, I'd only choose 2 and 12. Wasnt so down with anything else.

Zac Posen - Crazy texture mixing. I'm not sure about a lot of it, but I love rusching (?). The shocking color mixing is a little mind-blowing, as well. I cant tell if I abs love this or abs hate it. That's a good reaction, I think. The blues are positively dreamy.

Thursday, February 12, 2004

New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 4)

Anna Sui - How can you criticize someone whose aesthetic is all about fun. This collection is the eccentric Park Avenue, childless aunt who's been widowed for 22 years and keeps her money in old Bergdorf's hatboxes in her antique wardrobe. It's a look I like to keep in my back pocket for the day I find an old, tattered Chanel suit in a thrift shop. I'm dying for the bag in photo 12.

Baby Phat - Well, you already know how I feel about people who "design" collections. This is probably the first time Kimora Lee Simmons has seen these clothes...Anyway. The honey browns are nice, the boots in photo 20 are a dream. Theyre sexy mall pieces.

J. Mendel - Furs on top of Narciso Rodriguez knock-offs.

John Varvatos - Oooh, I'd forgotten how sharp a minidress looks under a longer, tailored coat. Nice. Unfortunately, that's about all I can say. The rest is nice, but just seems like late 90s Calvin Klein retreads (44, and all of the long satin-y slip dresses).

Matthew Williamson - Hmm. He seems like such a nice person. I really like 14 and 20, but I feel like he makes better individual pieces than a whole look. And a lot of this would work much better as a Spring show (22- a perfect dress for April). The final round of dresses (partic 26 and 31-looooooove) are soooo light and lovely and actually seem like solidly constructed pieces, but dont they too seem a little Spring?

Michael Kors - The thing I love best about him is that he creates a lifestyle fantasy. This season appears to be jet-setting. The models almost seem like anime in a secret agent manga. I'm totally digging all but the fur shoulder pads (wtf?). The shade of purple is so nice with the browns. His sweaters are the epitome of luxe...cant you just feel how soft that cashmere is? I will go to sleep tonight with fantasies of wearing photo 58.

Proenza Schouler - Speaking of secret agents, these are definitely Russian. The leather trench in photo 7 will never be out of style. Interesting and well-fitted, but not enough variety. How many times did we see that last dress?

Vera Wang - From what I can make out in this horrid lighting, her 'regular' clothes are ok. Just fine. Ok. But her real talents are in crafting the classiest, cleanest, most modern red-carpet dresses. I dont think this collection showcased her talents.

Tuesday, February 10, 2004

New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 2)

Badgley Mischka - Oooooh. Now I am desperate for cocktail party invitations. I definitely need some charcoal grey in my closet and midnight blue silky camisoles (3,4,5,14,21,25,37). Sexy, sheer, mature, lady-like. Isnt it wacky that they're also designing Carmen Electra's wedding dress?

BCBG - I usu like this line for its flirty, feminine grown-up girl looks, but this show is a little frumpy, ugly, and the wrong parts of the 70s/80s. I didnt really enjoy the color scheme, save a few pieces (34,44,45,48 - I am crying for those shoes!). Some were a little too reminiscent of 7th grade home ec projects.

Carolina Herrera - Wow. I usu love her, but perhaps I always like her Spring collections more. She seems to have really embraced fur her, which I'm not crazy about - not for political/ethical/what-have-you but because it seems frumpy/roll-of-carpet-y (19). 32 is better, but something still seems off. I dont really like this silhouette, perhaps - the higher waist and fishtail hem. 47 is a nice dress, but kind of seems out of place with the rest of the collection. The whole thing just seemed a little too prim and bland for me.

DKNY - I love to critcize Donna Karan but the last few seasons, I've been forced to eat my words. Photo 9 shows the most vivid, 3-D in a photo blouse. I'm dying to see it up-close (24 - same color and similar effect). Photo 15 completely recreates the idea of a one-shouldered sweater as a sophisticated and not-at-all-cheesy piece of clothing. Her color scheme is the best I've seen...I'm actually longing for Fall (40,43,48). The final group of dresses are just so rich, confident, simple. Sigh.

Jill Stuart - Perfect silhoutte. Nice prints. To die for lace-up boots. Even the pieces in all black translate as modern, sexy, exactly-what-I-want (1,4,10). There's a little bit of sci-fi ship's navigator (12, 17), intergalactic princess (15), and some things that are just plain awful (14,20,24), but I think the majority are covetable (22).

Marc Jacobs - Finally! An MJ show that I can swoon for again! The opening photo is exactly how I want to look this Fall at all times. Photo 2! Now that's the way to wear a fur...very Margot Tennenbaum and I dig the too-short sleeves. I secretly (well, ok, if you see me every day it's not such a secret) love ill-fitting clothes. Sleeves and pant legs a little too long or short...a ridiculously over-sized dress shirt under a much-too-small shirt. That's his talent, I think. He can pick the trends but also he knows just how a girl (a girl that's not too fashion-y and doesnt like fussy) likes to wear stuff. I would take any and every, but especially 9, 17, 40, 41 (tho the shirt would look horrid on me), and the skirt in 42 (I'm never a fan of long, light-weight, not-fitted coats).

Oscar de la Renta - As per forever, pretty-girl skirts and sweaters though the alarmingly higher number of grande dame pieces freaks me out. I dream of making an entrance in the boots in photo 9...the coat could be lovely to hide the barest of minis. 38 and 45 are my first choice formal-wear so far. The pouffiness of 45 is borderline silly, but the white blouse tucked underneath makes it a little punk, no?

As Four - I cant really make out much of the collection and I dont really get showing it on children...are they making a statement about models? I've never been able to get behind their signature flower-petal design. Bjork loves them, so what do I know?

These collections have been, on-the-whole, a bit somber for my tastes. Rich colors are nice, but quirkier/more obnoxious pieces could break up the whole Ice Princess look.

PS- I'm feeling decidedly brazilian today. Much less painful and traumatic than I'd imagined, but I'm fairly certain I can now handle the pains of childbirth. :-)

Monday, February 09, 2004

New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 1)

Derek Lam - Prada mixed with a little anachronism. That's not a compliment. In theory, each of the pieces work in a quirky/conventional/50s Italian way similar to Prada. In practice, something is definitely off - the fit, the combinations, the color scheme. Maybe he's just referencing or mixing with an era I'm not keen on, but it just doesnt work for me. I do love the orange trousers in photo 18, but I am a sucker for a well-cut pant.

DVF - Oh! The first photo is a dream. Is it a coat or a dress? Is that a cumberbund? I really dont care, I want it regardless. Here is the perfect mix of downtown career girl. Pieces to covet, foundation pieces to stockpile...never toooo fashion-y. Almost every piece is entirely wearable. She has a nice eye for prints. I like the fiery graffiti in photo 28.

IOC - Blah blah blah. Sucks. Blah blah blah. The boots arent bad though.

Kenneth Cole - I have no criticism here. Everything is *nice*, but everything also seemed a little un-exciting. Not tired and not done, just ok. If youre a very nice, good girl who doesnt like to think too hard about fashion or making a statement, this is the most ideal collection for you.

Luca Luca - It's diff to review shows with lots of dark colored clothes and dim lighting, as no one is yet paying me to actually report from said shows. So barring the 60% of clothes that I couldnt see, I again have no complaints here. There is definitely quality in design, care in fabric selection (though I'm a little tired of the satin, yet I think it probably shows very well). I'm sure these are very good foundation pieces, just nothing that makes me coo.

Perry Ellis - Damn this terrible lighting! Damn the first 25 photos of men's (seriously, who gives a shit?!)! I'm so frustrated, because the clothes I can make out are so perfectly 50s sorority chic but I cant fully see them. Argh. The palm springs rebel in photo 39, the blue gloves in 44, the big baggy suit in 36, and the perfectly demure princess in 31 are all on my wish list, but the coats (25,30,48) are truly the winning pieces.

Tuleh - I'm not usually a fan, as this is the gear for a blandly blonde UES girl, but I want photo 3 in my wardrobe now. It's very spring, dont you think? And photo 10 is wonderfully Yohji. I wish I could make out the fabric - is it a heavy tweed or light silk-rayon? The coat in photo 12 is the right mix of crazy-old-lady and avant garde, with maybe a touch of Jackie O thrown in the print. I absolutely adore the hair and makeup. The hair is so soft and natural, but not the slightest bit bed-heady. I must learn.