Derek Lam - Prada mixed with a little anachronism. That's not a compliment. In theory, each of the pieces work in a quirky/conventional/50s Italian way similar to Prada. In practice, something is definitely off - the fit, the combinations, the color scheme. Maybe he's just referencing or mixing with an era I'm not keen on, but it just doesnt work for me. I do love the orange trousers in photo 18, but I am a sucker for a well-cut pant.
DVF - Oh! The first photo is a dream. Is it a coat or a dress? Is that a cumberbund? I really dont care, I want it regardless. Here is the perfect mix of downtown career girl. Pieces to covet, foundation pieces to stockpile...never toooo fashion-y. Almost every piece is entirely wearable. She has a nice eye for prints. I like the fiery graffiti in photo 28.
IOC - Blah blah blah. Sucks. Blah blah blah. The boots arent bad though.
Kenneth Cole - I have no criticism here. Everything is *nice*, but everything also seemed a little un-exciting. Not tired and not done, just ok. If youre a very nice, good girl who doesnt like to think too hard about fashion or making a statement, this is the most ideal collection for you.
Luca Luca - It's diff to review shows with lots of dark colored clothes and dim lighting, as no one is yet paying me to actually report from said shows. So barring the 60% of clothes that I couldnt see, I again have no complaints here. There is definitely quality in design, care in fabric selection (though I'm a little tired of the satin, yet I think it probably shows very well). I'm sure these are very good foundation pieces, just nothing that makes me coo.
Perry Ellis - Damn this terrible lighting! Damn the first 25 photos of men's (seriously, who gives a shit?!)! I'm so frustrated, because the clothes I can make out are so perfectly 50s sorority chic but I cant fully see them. Argh. The palm springs rebel in photo 39, the blue gloves in 44, the big baggy suit in 36, and the perfectly demure princess in 31 are all on my wish list, but the coats (25,30,48) are truly the winning pieces.
Tuleh - I'm not usually a fan, as this is the gear for a blandly blonde UES girl, but I want photo 3 in my wardrobe now. It's very spring, dont you think? And photo 10 is wonderfully Yohji. I wish I could make out the fabric - is it a heavy tweed or light silk-rayon? The coat in photo 12 is the right mix of crazy-old-lady and avant garde, with maybe a touch of Jackie O thrown in the print. I absolutely adore the hair and makeup. The hair is so soft and natural, but not the slightest bit bed-heady. I must learn.