Tuesday, March 07, 2006

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, OK - this really is it!

We're not seeing all the tricks on display - fronts dont match backs, but I'm loving the simplicity of the dresses and the silliness of these gorgeous boots, that are a bit trompe l'oiel ankle strap heels:

I like the puffy but still streamlined jackets and little jewel-tone and tulle dresses, ok I like everything.

Louis Vuitton-
Slouchy everything. Leather, trousers, sweaters, hats. I'm not sure if I can condone hot pink velvet trousers. Cuddly sweater dresses, blousy suit jackets make Fall seem a relaxing dream. I'm never fur crazy, but those little puffball skirts look heavenly. Nothing incredibly covetable, but a nice mood to create on our own.

Miu Miu-
Short skirts, knickers, bare shoulders, red lips. A sort of innocent-sexy. Always a bit 60s and Mediterranean.

Almost scary levels of sophistication and confidence. White shirts, black bow ties, flawless gloves and structured handbags. This is for the well-groomed girl for whom cheesy can not even be found in her vocabulary. Full skirts, ribbons everywhere, virtually flawless.

Monday, March 06, 2006

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, I think this is it!

Dark colors, funnel necks, deep v-necks, puffy sleeves: austere, yet dramatic. A sort of unromantic renaissance look.

Alexander McQueen-
Eccentric Edwardian British Birdwatcher Murderess. All feathers and ruffles and tweed (and plaid!) (and lace!). A little spooky and a little magical - goes nicely with my Edward Gorey planner.

And how cool is a hologram-Kate appearance???

Antonio Berardi-
Again with the austerity! Sharp, buttoned-up-sexy suits and coats. And nurse hats. Ok.

The uszh Chanel suit, with mini skirt and thigh-high boots this time. Great, but I could go the whole rest of my life without seeing a man wear one. Especially with the ruffle shirt. Ick. Big belts, brooches, Edwardian collars, plaid, blah blah blah. I did like the ribbon-corseted dresses and jackets and the stained-glass-looking beading and the black hair ribbons.

Borderline-boring, but Chloe always manages to make things look cool (and, in this case, seriously comfy). Loose jumpers that I know I've seen on 'Eight is Enough', mixed with modern baby dolls and pin-tucked and belted work clothes. Missing the usual flash and must-have-or-die piece.

Christian LaCroix-
The black and red cuts and 80s style harsh glamour, on this side of edgy rather than Dynasty though. Strapless paisleys and little mini-dresses bring on a chic-er and less-done 60s vibe.

Comme des Garcons-
More freaky headcoverings! Over-sized coats, ruffles, men's trousers, simple white oxfords (shirts and shoes, actually). I adore this sweater (but draw the line at wool panties):

Ok, I've discovered an issue on the Brogue site- they've mixed the show with the Kenzo show. I think the sweater is Kenzo. The runway changes after page 2 on Comme and also, I was certain the designer is Japanese.

Elie Saab-
Still pretty, but as per everything else this season, more sedate. Beautiful black and white laces, sometimes with burgundy and gold accents.

Giambattista Valli-
New Look dresses and coats look right out of Hitchcock. Dresses swirled across the body - sometimes demure and sometimes disco - and more feathers (evidence, the runway)!

An evermore modern take on the sexy equestrian. Supple leather dresses, cut-up Fair Isle sweaters, asian silk jodhpurs, fur capelets, and a riding crop or two.

John Galliano-
American history as told through hats and washed out Americana. There's some Quaker buttoned-up, some Johnny Reb tatters, denim of course, prairie skirts, and even some Native American blanket prints, and a carpetbagger-turned-dress or two, but I cant say that I'm too excited.

Junya Watanabe-
More scary headcovers!!! Aaaak! Paratrooper-punk-chic, with totally covetable jackets and fishtail skirts.

Oh wow. Most of the season's key elements, with a needlepoint/grandmother vibe.

Is this virtually the same sweater as above by Comme des Garcons??

I like this one better, though:

Ok, I've discovered an issue on the Brogue site- they've mixed the two shows. I think the sweater is Kenzo. The runway changes after page 2 on Comme and also, I was certain the designer is Japanese.

Martin Grant-
Sexy sexy severe. I would almost guess them to be Gucci.

Martin Margiela-
A lot of satin and rollergirl and explain the netting and furniture tags?

Nina Ricci-
Mix of hard(er) and soft - tulle and corduroy. Making his pretty perfect girl a little more reckless. More knickers (yay!).

Sonia Rykiel-
Decadent knitwear, rosette dresses, the most beautiful hair on the runways, more sexy cobweb laces, black and neutrals have never looked so un-boring.

Thursday, March 02, 2006

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, cont cont cont

Every year, as Fashion Weeks grow to a close, I become thoroughly exhausted by fashion. It's a shame, too, because the best shows are to be found in Paris. I'll try to keep the enthusiasm going!

Andrew Gn-
Vintage luxe. Lace, beading, and fur seem straight out of the Hitchcock costume department, but are added to intrinsically modern and pretty pieces. All about the details, but not in a precious way. This is a girl who is definitely sophisticated, but just maybe a low-pro-ho.

Pure luxe gorgeousness. Hard sexy Galliano-esque lace-up boots, with croc coats and fur sweaters. The shapes are structured and fitted, but with some soft and sexy chiffons and delicate spiderweb sweaters thrown in.

Dries Van Noten-
The best part is the gold leaf runway. The clothes are a little old and baggy and bland.

Emanuel Ungaro-
Sculpted and drapey, sexy and chic.

You had me at nerdy glasses (on Naomi Campbell!) and red lace. Very French and womanly.

Hussein Chalayan-
Surprisingly sensible coats and suits. Perhaps borderline bland.

Paco Rabanne-
Sexy futuristic edgy. Perhaps a little overdone.

Fantastic cuffed trousers (knee or normal length) and spooky cobwebbed lace and chiffon gowns. Romantic and sensible. Chimney sweep colors and eyeliner and ladder straps and headbands.

Sophia Kokosalaki-
Pretty dresses with her signature draping (nice gold shoes too). Make a note for chiffon blouses and lace-up boots.

Stella McCartney-
A few comfortable looking sweaters and dresses, but I get the sense the inspiration was a more-structured muumuu. Uncharacteristically unsexy and unwitty, particularly when pressed on the most unflattering jeans I've ever seen:

And that's on Daria! Picture those on the average model-skinny woman with six-figure clothing allowance! Shudder!

Veronique Branquinho-
Sombre dresses, concepty suits. Yawn-inducing up until the knit corsets and lace detailing. Have I mentioned lace? Definitely add lace to your list too. I think she could have done a better job with fitting.

Yves Saint Laurent-
Hard-edged career-women or conservative dominatrices (what is the plural of dominatrix?). Girlish and glittery tunics over cropped skinny pants and sheer harem pants help the collection to seem softer and less clichèd. Beautiful blouses and bows and rosette capes help us remember how wonderful YSL is.