Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, cont.

The scariest models in history, but also some really great jackets. I'm on the fence about the charmed dresses though.

Viktor & Rolf-
I looooove these guys. There shows are always so theme-oriented, with crazy bits, but always completely wearable forward-thinking clothes. It's never about sex - which, let's be honest, can get a little boring and clichéd - only about style. Circle skirts (with lots of crinolines, i assume), trenches, belted sleeves (hard to explain), perfect black dresses...

Monday, February 27, 2006

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007

Rick Owens-
Never a fan, but this time, I'm attracted to the animal-pelt-cum-jacket. I guess it's more of a bib and not really animal pelt, but the Mad Max quality has me imagining the couturier using a sharpened rock to chisel out these beautiful pieces. I am also cuckoo for the biker boots. No surprise.

Yohji Yamamoto-
Holy. The show that never ends. Loooooooooots of boring double-breasted trenches, oversized, forever, in black. I'm not alone in the boredom: WP blog. The first two pages are marginally cool though.

Milan - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, this time with more feeling

Horsey high-society. Instead of jet-setting, these girls ride their Range Rovers out to the country house. Denim knickers, layered and fitted jackets and vests, regal dresses and sweaters. Like a richer Ralph Lauren.

Almost too simple and staid, but with a few standout dresses and suits.

Ugh. The color scheme and florals are so unappealing to me. Nothing too thrilling or even flattering, for instance:

Whyyy???? This is by far one of the ugliest and most disappointing shows of the season. If you're not very innovative, just stick with pretty!

Roberto Cavalli-
Big furs, rich fabrics, flapper dresses mixed with 70s sharp sexiness. Never a fan, but some things no one could turn down.

Some truly hideous atrocities committed against leopard print and sequined dragons and more than a few ill-fitting unflattering bits. Again, stick with what you know when youre not that talented! Just stick with straight up Russian/Italian/Euro-trash Sexy! Forget fraud, he should be jailed for this:

Donatella's been toning down the cheese (and coke) for a few seasons now, and this foray into 70s space-age (is that a style? it's like 60s graphic and space-age, but with a lot more sex appeal) is getting me excited. Hyper-modern sexy dresses, draped and swathed across the body only add to the case that Versace is relevant. This, of course, leaves me totally confused.

Thursday, February 23, 2006

Milan - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, cont cont

Emporio Armani-
Pretty textured suits - either with ruffles, pleats, or alternating fabric stripes. Very formal, but confidently sexy.

Disco, jet-set, a little sleazy. In case you were wondering, now's the time for perfect legs. All about draping and leanness.

Jenny Packham-
Grown-up and vampy glamour gowns, with a slight dusty vintage edge to them.

Jil Sander-
Yawn. Dont waste your time.

Similarly tunic-styled dresses, jackets, and blouses; wide-legged trousers; boxy cropped jackets with 3/4 length sleeves. A very proper collection with enough "off"-ness to make it totally wearable and covetable.

Prim dresses and coats, with the occasional nip of a waist or flash of skin. I'm thinking you cant go wrong with little 60s/70s hostess dresses (well, would that ever be wrong?).

Pollini-Rifat Ozbek-
You cant say you feel a 60s vibe here, these are full-on vintage dresses. That said, I love them and I love the prints and matching boots.

Structured pieces, but not too formal. More naturally pretty than previous collections, but also a bit tougher. These cool girls know what's going on, and they definitely know it more than you.

Salvatore Ferragamo-
Love the brown tights, blue shoes, green gloves. So unexpected in color, but classic and cool in shape.

Milan - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, cont.

Alberta Ferretti-
Modernized and shiny-fied hostess dresses. Dramatic styles that look effortless to wear. Dresses dresses dresses. Do you feel compelled yet? I'm in love with those webbed tights too.

The coolest Italian snowbunnies, who have no intention of touching snow (you really cant in silk brocade with fur trim or in a strapless dress with a cardigan). Maybe the perfect things to wear to get out of the back of a Towncar, with a driver holding an umbrella.

I'm not really feeling the boxy coats and jackets - we've seen it better on other runways. These just seem sort of middle-aged JC Penneys (no offense to JCP). The dresses are nice, on the whole, but the prints seem a little dated and faded. I think I'm looking for more richness - a little more of this:

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Milan - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007

Bottega Veneta-
Pretty wool suits and dresses. More than anything, I'd sell you out for one of their handbags.

Loooove the snow on the runway. Dorky/wacky snowbunny gear, but wearable sweaters and dresses. Very cozy. I'm going to draw a line a cable-knit panties though.

Adorable dresses, dorky-cute bows.

Vampy skirts, cancan ruffles, surprisingly interesting and sexy.

Monday, February 20, 2006

London - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007 cont.

Cute skirts with rather shapeless blouses and jackets. Not so flattering.

Pretty coats and dresses. I definitely want to fulfill my dress search this year - no luck last year.

Katarzyna Szczotarska-
I'm all for the looser silhouette, but I dont know if I can get behind potato sacks.

I'm a sucker for trompe l'oeil, but a lot of this is a little too Minnie Mouse Dynasty.

I'm just not that excited by London.

Monday, February 13, 2006

New York - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007 cont. x5

So apparently I'm now covering Ugly Day on the Runways. Today's photos are a sampling of the hideous things I'm seeing - except for the Boudicca, Matthew Williamsons, Strenesse (mostly), and - gasp - Sweetface.

Deconstructed tuxedos. Shirts and jackets and trousers-cum-gauchos. It actually works. Harsh and edgy in black and white and multiple textures and layers.

Catherine Malandrino-
Quilted jackets and 60s space age, folk, and obnoxious prints, but not in an obvious copy or reintroduction. Subtle influence on fluid and fairly unstructured pieces. And Mary J Blige. Huh?

Donna Karan-
Some very old-lady-looking suits and some sheerness that we will not speak of because then we will cry. Just take one quick look and scroll down. Cliched kimono jackets...frankly, this all just seems very dated and ugly.

Lagerfeld Gallery-
I have never understood how this label can be soooo wrong and Chanel can be so right. I guess he is just trying to keep them separate, but poor LG ends up with all the bad ideas. Feather cuffs?? Grey puckered bits of fabrics randomly affixed to black sweaters?? Dual satin fanny packs worn under the boob??
Exhibit 121 of Bad Bad Bad Clothing Ideas:

Matthew Williamson-
1972 Jetset Hostess Wear. I like the collars and 3-button belts of the jackets (especially when you later see them filtered into a sweater and a blouse), the ugly color combinations that just seem right, sailor pants (though a tad long and billowy), the nickel-sized silver and gold sequins, the sash belts - all smart ideas that can be pretty safely incorporated into our wardrobes. I feel like his garishness has grown up a bit, which is a nice change and separates him from a lot of what younger designers are attempting. Or maybe it's just a better balance of the ugly and pretty, the garish and the classic.

Nathan Jenden-
Sexy power suits but with big weird bows, awkwardly slashed blouses, and the puffy short sleeve. Oh, and some of the worst models I've seen. I'm feeling not very generous today. While some of this is definitely unusual, it also doesnt seem very inspired or even attractive.
Worst Model/Outfit/Hairstyle in History:

Ralph Rucci Chado-
Would you say leather pants and floor length fur is too much? I am never impressed by his designs, but now I see that his boring plain stuff is better because at least you dont dry heave on sight. Seriously old-lady. Even the furs are ugly. And his prints are actually making me nauseous.

Simple but pretty basics. Pencil skirts with satin slips peeking out and wide collared coats. Things got a little ugly at the end, with a not very appealing floral print and acidy sheer dresses, but nice work clothes otherwise. The show could have been a lot shorter if you cut out the skirt/trousers and turtleneck monotony, but this is probably how we'll be dressing come Fall.

Without the retarded spectacle of a $1million but still very ghetto show, JLo's label seems surprisingly sweet. Hooded sweaters, belted everything are flattering and wearable. Surprisingly demure sexiness makes me forget that I just said that I liked JLo's clothes.
I want to wear this outfit every single day: