Monday, February 13, 2006

New York - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007 cont. x5

So apparently I'm now covering Ugly Day on the Runways. Today's photos are a sampling of the hideous things I'm seeing - except for the Boudicca, Matthew Williamsons, Strenesse (mostly), and - gasp - Sweetface.

Deconstructed tuxedos. Shirts and jackets and trousers-cum-gauchos. It actually works. Harsh and edgy in black and white and multiple textures and layers.

Catherine Malandrino-
Quilted jackets and 60s space age, folk, and obnoxious prints, but not in an obvious copy or reintroduction. Subtle influence on fluid and fairly unstructured pieces. And Mary J Blige. Huh?

Donna Karan-
Some very old-lady-looking suits and some sheerness that we will not speak of because then we will cry. Just take one quick look and scroll down. Cliched kimono jackets...frankly, this all just seems very dated and ugly.

Lagerfeld Gallery-
I have never understood how this label can be soooo wrong and Chanel can be so right. I guess he is just trying to keep them separate, but poor LG ends up with all the bad ideas. Feather cuffs?? Grey puckered bits of fabrics randomly affixed to black sweaters?? Dual satin fanny packs worn under the boob??
Exhibit 121 of Bad Bad Bad Clothing Ideas:

Matthew Williamson-
1972 Jetset Hostess Wear. I like the collars and 3-button belts of the jackets (especially when you later see them filtered into a sweater and a blouse), the ugly color combinations that just seem right, sailor pants (though a tad long and billowy), the nickel-sized silver and gold sequins, the sash belts - all smart ideas that can be pretty safely incorporated into our wardrobes. I feel like his garishness has grown up a bit, which is a nice change and separates him from a lot of what younger designers are attempting. Or maybe it's just a better balance of the ugly and pretty, the garish and the classic.

Nathan Jenden-
Sexy power suits but with big weird bows, awkwardly slashed blouses, and the puffy short sleeve. Oh, and some of the worst models I've seen. I'm feeling not very generous today. While some of this is definitely unusual, it also doesnt seem very inspired or even attractive.
Worst Model/Outfit/Hairstyle in History:

Ralph Rucci Chado-
Would you say leather pants and floor length fur is too much? I am never impressed by his designs, but now I see that his boring plain stuff is better because at least you dont dry heave on sight. Seriously old-lady. Even the furs are ugly. And his prints are actually making me nauseous.

Simple but pretty basics. Pencil skirts with satin slips peeking out and wide collared coats. Things got a little ugly at the end, with a not very appealing floral print and acidy sheer dresses, but nice work clothes otherwise. The show could have been a lot shorter if you cut out the skirt/trousers and turtleneck monotony, but this is probably how we'll be dressing come Fall.

Without the retarded spectacle of a $1million but still very ghetto show, JLo's label seems surprisingly sweet. Hooded sweaters, belted everything are flattering and wearable. Surprisingly demure sexiness makes me forget that I just said that I liked JLo's clothes.
I want to wear this outfit every single day:

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