Tuesday, September 28, 2004

Milan Fashion Week - Day 1

Emporio Armani - 147 photos?! That would usually make me hate this, but the floaty looks that I've enjoyed this season are all here. Though this time with 70s disco sweatbands. and 70s interpretations of Great Gatsby are always good. Surprisingly not as boring as usual...he must have a younger designer designing.

Gibo - 's ok.

Marni - Love the colors and fabric. I really want to be the girl that layers like photo 6. Cute, very prada-esque but not as nerdy - more hitchcock. I'm so bananas for aqua, I cant stand it. And how jaw-droppingly beautiful is the designer??

Pollini-Rifat Ozbek - Rich hippy that just got home from 3 months in India. Lovely golds and blues.

Pucci - How could you not want all of these? Especially if you live in Florida and drive a jag...And especially photo 24 - I'm *dying* for it. So confident, so loud, so cool.

Friday, September 24, 2004

London Fashion Week - Day 3 and 4 (part 2) and Day 5

Basso & Brook - The colors and prints and fabrics are so dreamy magical. Fashionable faeries, for sure. Asian detailing without the cliched brocade. Very deserving winners, I'd agree.

Betty Jackson - Ooooh love. The plaids and shapes are nice. And the models have such nice hair! So 70s working girl, but the cool girl who worked in a library, not the dorky secretary. So v cool.

Boyd - Polka dots, aprons, ribbons, full skirts, 60s prom dresses, was this collection made especially for me? A little precious, but the vintage and homemade feel make up for it. How short is the designer though, and how hideous her boots?!

Camilla Staerk - Nice runway. A little too pretensious and not too exciting.

David Cooper - Freaky and kind of ill-fitting.

Ebru Ercon - Nice lighting but rather bland. The whites are oh so crisp though.

Jasper Conran - You can only wear these clothes poolside in Palm Beach or while driving your '72 mercedes roadster. And each outfit can be brought up to a 10 with just the addition of some big JackieO shades. I'm dying for silver sequined trousers. I'm not sure I'll ever be happy without them.

Jenny Packham - Screaming Vegas, but in a good way. Except, perhaps, the graffitti trousers (jesus), rhinestone jeans (shudder), and cutoffs (eww).

Justin Oh - Kinda bland punk, a few really edgy pieces though.

Margaret Howell - Cute, classy work clothes. I'm really digging rolled up navy pants. I totally want everything here for my core wardrobe.

Rafael Lopez - Dramatic draping, slinky dresses, lovely colors. Interesting.

Robert Cary-Williams - Fleshy, flashy, Mad Maxian. I like it.

Rubecksen Yamanaka - Ho hum.

Scott Henshall - Gawdy Barbie wear. The show with the biggest breasts.

Sinhastanic - Blah.

Swash - Lovely prints but a little tent-like and retarded (see THE TWO PERSON T-SHIRT in photo 20 - I'm for serious).

Willow - Charmingly futuristic and fussy. Cool.

Thursday, September 23, 2004

London Fashion Week - Day 3 and 4

Alistair Carr - Ugly. But at least different.

Ashish - Interesting tights. Not such a fan of the prints, though photo 8 is strangely appealing. And the crazy ruffled and plaid skirts, I am totally interested. I dont really want any of the actual pieces, but this might be the most personally inspiring collection I've seen.

Boudicca - Ooooooh. The trousers in photo 1 are so sharp, you can cut yourself. The whole collection - lace, extraneous straps and fabric - is so fucking tough. Only the prettiest and coolest girl you know can pull these looks off. A not-so-pretty girl would look like she was trying too hard to not care about her looks. A pretty girl just looks 100x prettier. If I won the lottery, I'd buy all these for Ann Marie.

Eley Kishimoto - Decidedly un-pretty prints (yay!) and a few really great pieces (the chevron striped mini peacoats, the long cheerleader skirts) and some really dated looking pieces.

Gardem - A little too Ralph Rucci. Overly complicated blah.

Julien MacDonald - the pictures...where are the pictures??

Peter Jensen - In spite of the freaky ass figure skaters, I see some cute pieces. Charmingly dorky/8th grade prom/7th grade home-ec project. I love the polkadots and that wacky green polyester-looking fabric, oh and that gorgeous yellow babydoll.

Preen - 's ok. Another Ralph Rucci/Helmut Lang. Just bland.

Tuesday, September 21, 2004

London Fashion Week - Day 1 and 2 (part 2)

Giles Deacon - First of all, LOOOOVE the hair. Espec Linda's (photo 1). In reading a description of this show, I'd say this is probably a show I'd hate. Instead, I love the Regal Beagle suits and dresses and platform shoes. The prints are crazy, the stripes so cooly different, and the pouf-sleeved jackets are so fucking awesome.

Jens Laugesen - Sharp, spacey suits and dresses. A little V The Final Battle. I dont think that's good.

Jessica Ogden - Caribbean cool. The colors and ruffles and the sexy without being too sexy style are maybe my new first choice for spring. I love the whole lack of pretension and simple love of fashion. Plus, I'm a fervent believer in ankle socks with high heels.

John Rocha - A little too tied up and layered for spring. It's making me hot.

Jonathan Saunders - Slinky fabrics. Geometric/mathematical patterns. Such a startling change from the rest of the runways. Very wearable, very cool. The geeky funny girl who, when you give her a second look, is always dressed better than you. And she beat you on the last pre-cal quiz.

Nicole Farhi - Wow. Perfect balance of the 50s Lady and modern stylings to keep this from looking like every other show this season. She's got the key looks: man-style pants, ruffles, florals, lady-like jackets, but instead of making it all sugary/girly/pastel-y/already-all-over-the-mall, she shot it all through a 60s spaghetti western and maybe threw in some Sophia Lauren too. The sexy but delicate tops with man-style trousers cut to capri length are my favorites.

Paul Smith - First off the runway has me desperate for spring. Looooooove *everything*...the actual clothes, the style, the prints, the kneesocks. And the models are the prettiest girls ever, right?? So english garden party. I think I'll add white and beige kneesocks to my wish list and maybe a pink pleated skirt.

Temperley - Pretty.

London Fashion Week - Day 1 and 2

Ben de Lisi - Sorbet colors and structured jackets arent my favorite, but flirty and heavily ornamented skirts are very pretty. I think London is going to be like NY - very pretty, very safe...not so original. It's like it almost doesnt matter where you buy your clothes, you'll still look good...this is not necessarily good. It's still the homogenizing of fashion, it's just less skin baring.

Bora Aksu - More sorbet, a tad more 70s, but still relatively safe. And maybe less pretty and way more ugly.

Clements Ribeiro - Gorgeous prints and colors and suits. Cool girl easy pieces.

Eley Kishimoto - Hmmm...the prints are nice, but the designs are a little too simple. Like, I'm not sure why there needed to be a runway. It's a little too FrostFrench or Built By Wendy - good clothes, just not Fashion Week.

Elspeth Gibson - Simple (maybe a little too), pretty...the evening is gorgeous though. Floaty and dreamy. Looove.

Emma Cook - Bland to ugly.

FrostFrench - A little too simple, but wearably sexy and cute. Not too safe and not too ladylike, which I appreciate.

Gharani Strok - Sexy, pretty, 70s. Ok.

New York Fashion Week - Day 5 (part two)

Ralph Lauren - Gatsby Glamour. The beginning suits and color scheme are so boring, I cant even take it. But the gowns, the gowns! Gorgeous.

Ralph Rucci - I really dont enjoy this designer. It all seems so boring and a tad pretensious. With the exception of the last 3 gowns. Just classic beauties. Maybe a tad *old*.

Wednesday, September 15, 2004

New York Fashion Week - Day 5

Calvin Klein - Classically simple Calvin. The teals and watery knits are so nice in the heat. So many people try for this minimalism, but it always comes across as lazy. This is perfectly executed and studied simplicity.

Marc - First of all, I covet the shoes. Second of all, I love the layers with extra bits of string and ribbons. However, I take great offense to what appears to be denim with elastic cuffs (photo 16).

Michael Kors - Ooooh, let's jetset to Greece in 1972. The blues, again, are just ocean gorgeous - particularly on that tiny fur (!) jacket. Everything he does just *screams* money and leisure.

Narciso Rodriguez - Loose and easy dressing with enough feminine fittings to keep you from looking like a potato sack. The little black dress with the aqua ribbon is the epitome of summer chic (photo 33).

Peter Som - Ruffly, floral-y, and fairly delightful. Photo 34 is just perfection.

Tuesday, September 14, 2004

New York Fashion Week - Day 4

Anna Sui - Oh you know how I hate cowboy hats. Partic Naomi Campbell in a cowboy hat. This collection has the Anna Sui mark, but it also still seems like a tired Ralph Lauren ad. Not a fan, but I'm very prejudiced towards such styles. I'd feel like a grandmother going to square dance practice in them. I'd wear photo 44 or 59 if you made me, though.

BCBG Max Azria - A tad too hippy for my tastes (I seriously feel like a designer is just phoning it in when a peasant blouse shows up). The sequins are nice (photo 12) and 42 is princess-perfect.

Donna Karan - Two very different people design for her labels, because how can I like DKNY so much and be so ambivalent towards Donna Karan? The dress is 35 is perfect...I really like the stiffness of the tulle.

J Mendel - Breezy, light as air dresses - so dreamy (photos 5,6,27). My favorite gathered short sleeves (photo 3). Oscar but with a lot of embellisment...sometimes good and sometimes bad.

Jill Stuart - The blues and lilacs are gorgeous. The confident girl who's a bit scary, wearing the cutest clothes imaginable (photos 10 (those shoes!),17,18,32).

Marc Jacobs - Crazy for obnoxious herringbone - a different take on the now-ubiquitous Chanel jacket tweed. Will love forever short-sleeved sweaters with full skirts, especially in over-sized gingham. This is the 50s dressing that I can actually pull off. So very much like the clothes my mom made me. Polka dot cardigans and sequined edged skirts are so what I want right now. It seems like it's been ages since I hungered for MJ. I love the colored petticoats peeking out from under the hems...I'm soooo hunting one down.

Menichetti - I'm usu very bitter towards designers showing for the first time, but I have to admit I really am impressed with this collection. It's Marc by Marc Jacobs cuteness and color with some Yohji-designed irregularities. The layering of a neckline (photo 1), the ruffle of a suit collar (photo 4), the bizarre but seriously cool buttoning of a jacket (photo 33). I would wear all of this every single day. Hmm, is this my favorite collection now? The only misstep is the Pam Anderson effect in photo 37 - the proportion is off and it's not flattering. I'm breathless for his upcoming Celine show.

Oscar de la Renta - I love this man. Even though he dresses Laura Bush (but he also dresses Theresa Heinz-Kerry). The resort we're going to in the Dominican Republic is in the same town as his resort. I dont think it's quite in our price range. He was born there, but is now solidly All-American. He defines American fashion in my opinion. Plus, he seems so nice and has an interesting life story (as does his wife, Annette. They say that the villian Goldfinger was based on her father - a gold baron. Crazy, eh?!). Finally, no boring-only-pretty! Crazy (and not at all tired) prints on perfectly executed and tasteful designs. This girl is the classiest girl in town (and maybe the sweetest), I wish so very bad to be this girl. His laces and dresses are a *dream*. Sigh. I have tears in my eyes.

United Bamboo - Breathy classics...dear god, is that overalls (photo 12)?? Girly, definitely not-ugly but no tears of wanting from me.

Monday, September 13, 2004

New York Fashion Week - Day 3 (part two)

DKNY - Ok, I'm totally giggling at the use of actual mannequins. It's always refreshing to see something other than angry models stomping down the over-cliched runway. Even though I cant really stand Donna Karan, I have to admit I've really like the last few seasons of DKNY. They're covetable in a Marc Jacobs way and they dont cost a kabillion dollars, so that I actually could own them if I got around to spending money on clothes. Plus, I'm diggin those yellow handbags (photos 6 and 10). I'm always a fan of the 50s style 3/4-length suit jackets paired with a full skirt (floral patterns? perhaps this year? but arent the shoes more 40s-ish?). I will cut someone for the hat in photo 19.

Lela Rose - Soooooo cute! Do you see a trend for Spring? Photo 1 has got me thinking about shorts yet again. I love the satin-y baby blue. Photos 3 and 11 are the most non-trashy corset-tops I've seen. They are so cute, I'd consider wearing them - though I would never wear any shirt this baring. Photo 9 is a wacky, sexy secretary (I nearly wrote waxy - which is a good not-made-up-but-good-new-meaning word - let's go one step further and term it waxetary, which is my most favorite look ever). Photo 25 may be my most favorite evening gown so far. I'm stocking up/stealing her ideas for lace and acid green and baby blue.

Luca Luca - Very pretty. He always uses such nice, subdued colors and silky fabrics. It's hard not to like (3,8,9,10,16,24,28,35). The blouses are bordering on too cute, but I still like them and feel that I can make something comparable for my Spring wardrobe.

Luella - Sporty casual. The mini dresses are nice, but nothing too exciting. It doesnt seem very runway-y.

Matthew Willamson - Flirty rich girl that doesnt like to look like a cookie cutter and never wants to go unnoticed. The clothes themselves are pretty demure...very covered-up. The colors are just crazy bright. Sensible clothes for those who like a little color.

Miguel Adrover - I dont get taking it off the runway/show setting but then still making it like a runway. Anyway. And the models look like abs shit. I was starting to believe they were regular people, but no, there's Carmen Kass looking very much like a regular person - and that's no easy task. I really hate all of this. Someone always does this foreign-take-on-the-Old-West. I guess people are really watching that new show on HBO. It's never good. Blech. And 98 fucking photos? What a waste of time, bandwith...

Monique Lhuillier - Classy, well-tailored. Again, very Carolina/Oscar-ish. Is this a trend? A good one, but not for inspired viewing. One could not go wrong with anything here, but that's really no fun when you think of it. The trousers are so sharp, the colors so crisp. It also reminds me of the All-American rich girl of Michael Kors. Great looks when exiting your private jet. Lace, cropped trousers, some sort of silky teal or butterscotch or yellow - key details to remember for Spring. Gorgeous gowns, I'm just feeling a lot of deja vu.

PHI - I've never heard of them (oh wait, these are the people that Michael Dell's wife is funding), but these are some serious Helmut Lang-ish pieces, though definitely softer and more womanly. If I had to be honest, these are much more me. I want to be sugar sweet, but I'm a bit too cynical. I need some hard-edged trousers and some safety pins to keep me from feeling too masked. I also like their emphasis of the hips - like a corset for your lower half. A fantastically mature show...no prettiness for the sake of selling. I really, truly *like* this.

Richard Chai - Very smart clothes...I thought I was going to have to say "*another* Carolina/Oscar??", but then he surprised me with some bright colors and fancy detail. Nice trousers, looooove shirt dresses (this year, I *will* finally make one), standing collars, and ooooh cute designer photo. He *is* Carolina/Oscar but more edge than lady.

Thakoon - Sweet, simple, soft, not mind-blowing. Nothing if not department store-ready.

Tuleh - Glamour. Rich colors, long skirts (what a nice change). He even makes fur look pretty - not gaudy or too-much at all. Just soft and girly. Layered knit shirts is another look I'll steal.

Vera Wang - Gorgeous and surprisingly original...there's a bit of Prada and Carolina/Oscar, but it's also young and modern and sleek and new. I wouldnt say hip, because the girl that wears these is far beyond something as effervescent as "hip". This is fashion-plate material. Photo 29 is a lesson in being simple and sophisticated and not-trying-too-hard and def not just-a-princess.

Zac Posen - So mature! But def not old. He really can make the most simple item appear couture (photo 20, 39). And look at the hair and makeup - who does not want to be this girl?? I dont know why idiot Puffy is comparing him to Marc Jacobs...I think he's more English in his cutting - a Galliano or McQueen without the dramatic presentation. I will consider forgiving him for aligning himself with Puffy. I pray it's just for the money.

New York Fashion Week - Day 3

Alice Roi - Simple, not-ugly, but maybe a tad too much potato sack. I dont believe you have to be super sexy to be fashionable, but I do like my designer clothing to be well-fitted. The skinny shirts (long- and short-sleeved) over tiny shorts are nice, I will probably look for something of the sort in the spring.

As Four - Again simple and not-ugly, but this time the fit is nice and the details are truly original. The trousers are my favorite (photos 3, 11). They look so light and flattering, but not at all plain. I usually miss what people love about this label, but this time I'm getting a hint of what is special. The draping in the bodices of the dresses and the blouses is also very interesting. If I could take only one fashion design class, it would be in draping. I always try to do something interesting when I'm making a skirt without a pattern, but it's really so much harder than I ever thought. Maybe if I was good at origami, it would be easier. I love the dress in photo 34 - are those green lame panties??? Looooove.

Behnaz Sarafpout - Looooove it. The ribbons and obis and gold tanks and shoes. There is nothing here that is not covetable. She makes pretty-classy-original clothes in the vein of Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta. I would love to be this sort of girl. What is the white fabric in the first two photos? I'm so intrigued.

Derek Lam - Trousers, polka dots, and bows. There's a 30s/70s vibe here that I'm totally going to rip off. I'm going to lose the terrible belts though. Photo 30 is so positively elegant, that I think I'm going to have to throw a dinner party just to wear it. The color is sooooo nice too. Completely wearable.

Diane von Furstenberg - I look forward to the photos of this show each season. She also makes pretty and elegant clothes, but her's are always SEX first (photo 14, 18, 25, 29). Her signature prints, sexy-working-girl dresses, and slim-cut jackets are always on my wish-list-that-Marc-will-never-let-me-have. But how is it that she can make those bohemian potato-sacks but they still look sexy (photo 34)?

Friday, September 10, 2004

New York Fashion Week - Day 2

Carolina Herrera - So elegantly gorgeous and sexy. She's never too flash, but much too vibrant to be boring. Plenty of lace and bows to make me ache, but not too sugar-sweet to make a girl look like a joke. Photos 1, 40, 41, 45 are my favorite.

Bill Blass - Demure is definitely the key word. The styles are simple and classic, but maybe a tad *old*? Photos 13 and 20 are nice in a very Oscar de la Renta way. The evening ware is a great improvement as I see a lot of 50s-style Givenchy - what I dream of wearing to a very formal dinner party (37, 38, 41), though there are quite a few "what the hell collection is this now?!" (39, 45, 48).

Jeffrey Chow - Oooh, I really like this. Interesting colors with simple (yet edgy) designs. It's like lady-like (not-so-slutty) Gucci. I'd be happy with anything here, and I'm really in love with that orange and that blue.

Proenza Schouler - Fairly boring colors and prints for me...I feel like this is all perfect for a (hip) 62 year old. These are def the It Boy designers, but I just cant get excited about anything (except maybe the last dress).

Ruffian - I'm actually really digging the 70s secretary look (photo 3). The prints are so light and delicate, but the styling is so "Take this Job and Shove It". It's fantastic. And the shorts make me actually interested in wearing shorts! I secretly love the idea of evening shorts (just perhaps not gold lame, Beyonce). The dresses just look so new and so cool (14, 16, 18). This is my favorite so far. It's theme-dressing at its best!!

Tommy Hilfiger - An 80s Ralph Lauren collection gone horribly wrong. The bikini coverups are nice though (photos 11, 12). I'd def buy the skirts in photos 14 and 17 too. A friend in high school actually had pants exactly like the ones in photo 28 - her's were from Express though. I just cant get behind double-breasted sleevless jackets.
ps- doesnt Naomi look like shit? 1, 42, 58, 59.

Thursday, September 09, 2004

New York Fashion Week - Day 1

Sebastian Pons - Fresh, innocent, milk-maid-ish, clothes that I think my mom made me as a child. I havent seen beribboned lace since 3rd grade, but I think it will be in my wardrobe soon. It's nice to see cool, unpretensious clothes on the runway that arent hideous or hippie-ish or crazysexy.

Doo Ri - Not particularly ground-breaking, but the fabrics and colors just feel like summer. Golds and aquas are showing up a lot, which is good because I'm crazy obsessed with aqua right now. I even want aqua-stained kitchen cabinets. The blouse in photo 3 is perfect for dancing after a day at the beach, preferably Seacrets in Ocean City. Again, simple not-too-sexy and unpretentious dresses and blouses. I'll take photos 13 and 20.

Imitation of Christ - Blech. See? Can you see the difference between pretentious shit and unpretentious wearable clothing? It's really amazing that someone is admitting to "designing" this (see 2,4,5,7,8,10,11,18,19). The Grecian gladiator styles arent so bad, but when you compare them to Alexander McQueen's first collection for Givenchy, you realize exactly how unoriginal and genuinely shitty Tara Subkoff is.

Kenneth Cole - Fairly boring, though the white fabrics really make it difficult to make out details. It's not bad, but there are just wayyyyyy too many men. They have a separate fashion week! Dresses 42 and 47 and 56 would be nice for work. Not really much for dreaming, but maybe that's not a criticism.

Perry Ellis - I've been watching the simple magic of Patrick Robinson for the last few seasons. Not only is he a seriously handsome man, but he makes such wearable, wantable things. Like early Marc by Marc Jacobs. Girlish colors, simple cuts, lots of frills and ribbons. Basically, exactly what you want to put on *every day*. And seriously, only 18 looks?! The definition of unpretention. Fucking IOC had 83 looks (British Vogue wisely edited it down)!!! Plus, he's managed to make the bolero seriously hip.