Monday, September 13, 2004

New York Fashion Week - Day 3 (part two)

DKNY - Ok, I'm totally giggling at the use of actual mannequins. It's always refreshing to see something other than angry models stomping down the over-cliched runway. Even though I cant really stand Donna Karan, I have to admit I've really like the last few seasons of DKNY. They're covetable in a Marc Jacobs way and they dont cost a kabillion dollars, so that I actually could own them if I got around to spending money on clothes. Plus, I'm diggin those yellow handbags (photos 6 and 10). I'm always a fan of the 50s style 3/4-length suit jackets paired with a full skirt (floral patterns? perhaps this year? but arent the shoes more 40s-ish?). I will cut someone for the hat in photo 19.

Lela Rose - Soooooo cute! Do you see a trend for Spring? Photo 1 has got me thinking about shorts yet again. I love the satin-y baby blue. Photos 3 and 11 are the most non-trashy corset-tops I've seen. They are so cute, I'd consider wearing them - though I would never wear any shirt this baring. Photo 9 is a wacky, sexy secretary (I nearly wrote waxy - which is a good not-made-up-but-good-new-meaning word - let's go one step further and term it waxetary, which is my most favorite look ever). Photo 25 may be my most favorite evening gown so far. I'm stocking up/stealing her ideas for lace and acid green and baby blue.

Luca Luca - Very pretty. He always uses such nice, subdued colors and silky fabrics. It's hard not to like (3,8,9,10,16,24,28,35). The blouses are bordering on too cute, but I still like them and feel that I can make something comparable for my Spring wardrobe.

Luella - Sporty casual. The mini dresses are nice, but nothing too exciting. It doesnt seem very runway-y.

Matthew Willamson - Flirty rich girl that doesnt like to look like a cookie cutter and never wants to go unnoticed. The clothes themselves are pretty demure...very covered-up. The colors are just crazy bright. Sensible clothes for those who like a little color.

Miguel Adrover - I dont get taking it off the runway/show setting but then still making it like a runway. Anyway. And the models look like abs shit. I was starting to believe they were regular people, but no, there's Carmen Kass looking very much like a regular person - and that's no easy task. I really hate all of this. Someone always does this foreign-take-on-the-Old-West. I guess people are really watching that new show on HBO. It's never good. Blech. And 98 fucking photos? What a waste of time, bandwith...

Monique Lhuillier - Classy, well-tailored. Again, very Carolina/Oscar-ish. Is this a trend? A good one, but not for inspired viewing. One could not go wrong with anything here, but that's really no fun when you think of it. The trousers are so sharp, the colors so crisp. It also reminds me of the All-American rich girl of Michael Kors. Great looks when exiting your private jet. Lace, cropped trousers, some sort of silky teal or butterscotch or yellow - key details to remember for Spring. Gorgeous gowns, I'm just feeling a lot of deja vu.

PHI - I've never heard of them (oh wait, these are the people that Michael Dell's wife is funding), but these are some serious Helmut Lang-ish pieces, though definitely softer and more womanly. If I had to be honest, these are much more me. I want to be sugar sweet, but I'm a bit too cynical. I need some hard-edged trousers and some safety pins to keep me from feeling too masked. I also like their emphasis of the hips - like a corset for your lower half. A fantastically mature prettiness for the sake of selling. I really, truly *like* this.

Richard Chai - Very smart clothes...I thought I was going to have to say "*another* Carolina/Oscar??", but then he surprised me with some bright colors and fancy detail. Nice trousers, looooove shirt dresses (this year, I *will* finally make one), standing collars, and ooooh cute designer photo. He *is* Carolina/Oscar but more edge than lady.

Thakoon - Sweet, simple, soft, not mind-blowing. Nothing if not department store-ready.

Tuleh - Glamour. Rich colors, long skirts (what a nice change). He even makes fur look pretty - not gaudy or too-much at all. Just soft and girly. Layered knit shirts is another look I'll steal.

Vera Wang - Gorgeous and surprisingly original...there's a bit of Prada and Carolina/Oscar, but it's also young and modern and sleek and new. I wouldnt say hip, because the girl that wears these is far beyond something as effervescent as "hip". This is fashion-plate material. Photo 29 is a lesson in being simple and sophisticated and not-trying-too-hard and def not just-a-princess.

Zac Posen - So mature! But def not old. He really can make the most simple item appear couture (photo 20, 39). And look at the hair and makeup - who does not want to be this girl?? I dont know why idiot Puffy is comparing him to Marc Jacobs...I think he's more English in his cutting - a Galliano or McQueen without the dramatic presentation. I will consider forgiving him for aligning himself with Puffy. I pray it's just for the money.

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