Thursday, March 02, 2006

Paris - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, cont cont cont

Every year, as Fashion Weeks grow to a close, I become thoroughly exhausted by fashion. It's a shame, too, because the best shows are to be found in Paris. I'll try to keep the enthusiasm going!

Andrew Gn-
Vintage luxe. Lace, beading, and fur seem straight out of the Hitchcock costume department, but are added to intrinsically modern and pretty pieces. All about the details, but not in a precious way. This is a girl who is definitely sophisticated, but just maybe a low-pro-ho.

Pure luxe gorgeousness. Hard sexy Galliano-esque lace-up boots, with croc coats and fur sweaters. The shapes are structured and fitted, but with some soft and sexy chiffons and delicate spiderweb sweaters thrown in.

Dries Van Noten-
The best part is the gold leaf runway. The clothes are a little old and baggy and bland.

Emanuel Ungaro-
Sculpted and drapey, sexy and chic.

You had me at nerdy glasses (on Naomi Campbell!) and red lace. Very French and womanly.

Hussein Chalayan-
Surprisingly sensible coats and suits. Perhaps borderline bland.

Paco Rabanne-
Sexy futuristic edgy. Perhaps a little overdone.

Fantastic cuffed trousers (knee or normal length) and spooky cobwebbed lace and chiffon gowns. Romantic and sensible. Chimney sweep colors and eyeliner and ladder straps and headbands.

Sophia Kokosalaki-
Pretty dresses with her signature draping (nice gold shoes too). Make a note for chiffon blouses and lace-up boots.

Stella McCartney-
A few comfortable looking sweaters and dresses, but I get the sense the inspiration was a more-structured muumuu. Uncharacteristically unsexy and unwitty, particularly when pressed on the most unflattering jeans I've ever seen:

And that's on Daria! Picture those on the average model-skinny woman with six-figure clothing allowance! Shudder!

Veronique Branquinho-
Sombre dresses, concepty suits. Yawn-inducing up until the knit corsets and lace detailing. Have I mentioned lace? Definitely add lace to your list too. I think she could have done a better job with fitting.

Yves Saint Laurent-
Hard-edged career-women or conservative dominatrices (what is the plural of dominatrix?). Girlish and glittery tunics over cropped skinny pants and sheer harem pants help the collection to seem softer and less clichèd. Beautiful blouses and bows and rosette capes help us remember how wonderful YSL is.

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