Thursday, February 12, 2004

New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 4)

Anna Sui - How can you criticize someone whose aesthetic is all about fun. This collection is the eccentric Park Avenue, childless aunt who's been widowed for 22 years and keeps her money in old Bergdorf's hatboxes in her antique wardrobe. It's a look I like to keep in my back pocket for the day I find an old, tattered Chanel suit in a thrift shop. I'm dying for the bag in photo 12.

Baby Phat - Well, you already know how I feel about people who "design" collections. This is probably the first time Kimora Lee Simmons has seen these clothes...Anyway. The honey browns are nice, the boots in photo 20 are a dream. Theyre sexy mall pieces.

J. Mendel - Furs on top of Narciso Rodriguez knock-offs.

John Varvatos - Oooh, I'd forgotten how sharp a minidress looks under a longer, tailored coat. Nice. Unfortunately, that's about all I can say. The rest is nice, but just seems like late 90s Calvin Klein retreads (44, and all of the long satin-y slip dresses).

Matthew Williamson - Hmm. He seems like such a nice person. I really like 14 and 20, but I feel like he makes better individual pieces than a whole look. And a lot of this would work much better as a Spring show (22- a perfect dress for April). The final round of dresses (partic 26 and 31-looooooove) are soooo light and lovely and actually seem like solidly constructed pieces, but dont they too seem a little Spring?

Michael Kors - The thing I love best about him is that he creates a lifestyle fantasy. This season appears to be jet-setting. The models almost seem like anime in a secret agent manga. I'm totally digging all but the fur shoulder pads (wtf?). The shade of purple is so nice with the browns. His sweaters are the epitome of luxe...cant you just feel how soft that cashmere is? I will go to sleep tonight with fantasies of wearing photo 58.

Proenza Schouler - Speaking of secret agents, these are definitely Russian. The leather trench in photo 7 will never be out of style. Interesting and well-fitted, but not enough variety. How many times did we see that last dress?

Vera Wang - From what I can make out in this horrid lighting, her 'regular' clothes are ok. Just fine. Ok. But her real talents are in crafting the classiest, cleanest, most modern red-carpet dresses. I dont think this collection showcased her talents.

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