Hermes - Luxe leather jackets and coats, of course, formal suits and dresses, but still a little motorcycle edge.
Chloe - This seems like a collection of Chloe knockoffs in sensible colors. The charm is gone, the detailing. Too simple, too minimal, too not that cute.
Martin Grant - Proper Hepburn-esque (both of em) trousers and skirts. Adorably wacky - but not cloying - cocktail dresses.
Antonio Berardi - Beautifully (and slightly dangerous) tailored suits and dresses, kimono sleeves and tight bodices.
John Galliano - Like creepy dolls found in the attic. Louise Brooks and Marlene Dietrich dolls. Lots of ruffles, rosettes, and dust.
Nina Ricci - A new label and a new look for Olivier Theyskens. Still long skirts, but less New Romantic and more Wood Nymph. Less costume (which is a negative to me) and more modern, natural beautiful woman.
Elie Saab - Are gothic french maids in our red carpet future? Full sheer sleeves and wide black leather belts are certainly not what I expected. Pleasantly surprised with the changes.
Collette Dinnigan - Nice, pretty clothes. Dresses and trousers for a serious girl.
Louis Vuitton - Non-flapper 20s girls in a long, lean silhouette. Wide belts and classy lengths, nothing overtly sexy, but everything overtly pretty.
Lanvin - Left Bank chic, without the 70s sexiness. Jewel-toned dresses over skinny black trousers. Black satin pencil skirts and ruffle-necked blouses.
Miu Miu - Full 50s skirts, proper skirt suits in improper leather and seriously improper sheers.