Gianfranco Ferre - Strong suits, love the kimono jackets and oversized sweater sleeves. Spacey, but manages to sidestep any camp. Grownup but not Old.
Luisa Beccaria - Proper dorky/pretty. The sorts of things we'd see on Maggie Gyllenhaal. Though some uncharacteristically elegant ballgowns at the end. Pretty, all in all, and I think the designer herself is the best model and representation of the clothes in the end.
Blumarine - Sexy and womanly. The colors and fabrics are definitely grown up, the puffy sleeves keep a bit of the girlishness we're used to in place. Love this entire collection.
Missoni - A bit of a shakeup with the classic prints, a lot of solids, some nice details, but a whoooooollllle lot of furtrimming and uglification. Some definite unwearable levels of gaudiness. For instance, could there be more going on (and wrong??) in this photo??
DSquared2 - Post-apocalyptic assassin? shop girl? A lot of hard edges and zippers, though surprisingly uninteresting. Apparently feathers will be in surplus after the world ends.
Iceberg - Lovely draped and wrapped minidresses, though with the occasional cargo-gear detail that seems a little out of place with the otherwise simple and pretty looks.
Gianni Versace - I'm in love with the eyemakeup - smokey but with a hint of teal? Those strapless dresses are To. Die. For. Easy, wearable glamour.