Costume National - Gorgeous work-uniform dressing: pencil skirts, funnel-necked tunics, satin dresses. Curiously wonderful details.
Andrew Gn - Black and white tweed, feathers, and ruffles. A little hohum with some standout minidresses.
Akris - Polished workwear. Futuristic military suits and dresses, exaggerated turtlenecks. Slick and cool.
Valentino - Perfect fall wear for perfect ladies. Brown tweeds, quilted skirts, proper gloves. A balance of pure sexiness and utter elegance, as expected.
Dries Van Noten - Quilted satins, a limp silhouette, a tad depressing.
Christian Lacroix - Gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous. Those full sleeves, defined waists, jewel and fur details. Cozy sweaters. The most covetable dresses and tiny jackets. Elegant and cooool.
Loewe - Leather and suede and stiff satin, but in a ladylike manner. Full sleeved tunics and sexy dresses.
Sophia Kokosalaki - I dont know the type of fabric she uses, or if it's the method of her draping that gives the satin so much texture. Beautiful dresses, sexy trenches.
Veronique Branquinho - Yawn. Expensive, polished-looking Mexican panchos. Pass.
Givenchy - Ooooh, those wide-legged trousers, almost sailor pants. Tight navy business dresses. Polished, but not stodgy.
Hussein Chalayan - Architectural dresses, fun stripes with mismatching striped aprons, pvc legging/boots, and one magically lit dress. Gorge.
Karl Lagerfeld - Some suits (nice), some dresses (ok), some excitement (no).