Andrew Gn - Complicated simplicity. Subtle luxury. I love the mini belted coats - I feel that Jeannie wore them...or maybe just Kate Moss.
Christian Dior - Ooooooooh. So soft and London-girl-mixed-up, but pretty and 60s and just nice. Never sugar, but girly and cool. Then sexed-up Frency for evening. And that's a fabulous suit on John.
Commes des Garcon - I'm cuckoo for tutus - like an apron with oomph. Not so crazy for the British judge wigs.
Costume National - Tribal YSL. Sexy, drapey, but even so - kind of boring, though I'd take a pair of Disco pants any day.
Dries van Noten - Peasanty bland.
Emanuel Ungaro - Swingy, fluffy, cuuuuuute, sexy. Perfect. The skirts, the cuffed trousers, fun and sexy but not overtly.
Helmut Lang - I'm usu a little bored with Helmut, but this time his dresses are pretty cool and his jackets are so well-tailored, but still very modern and unique.
Jean Paul Gaultier - Elise Crombez is totally my favorite model right now. She's more cool than pretty - which I guess is very Kate Moss too...actually, she looks like a European Scarlett Johansson. Cancan ruffles, trenches
Lagerfeld Gallery - Peekaboo tulle for day and full-blown layers of tulle for evening. Boyish "ties" used as wide belts. Some devastatingly hideous blouses - peekaboo shoulders? Umm no. That's an invention that I will never forgive Donna Karan for...her name for such a style is just as terrible: The Cold Shoulder. The gowns were sufficiently glamourous...sort of down-scaled Chanel.
Sophia Kokosalaki - Innocent, unassumingly complicated. Lots of draping, texture. In other fabrics and colors, I'd be more excited, though I want almost every piece.
Stella McCartney - Breezily sophisticated. Unfussy. I love the big thick bows and negligee (not at all lingerie) for evening.
Veronique Branquinho - This would make a much better Fall collection. The fabrics and colors seem so heavy, I feel stifled just imagining wearing them on an 80degree day. Boxy and mainly curve-concealing, it just doesnt feel like Spring. In spite of that, I love photos 22-24, but for THIS FALL!
Viktor & Rolf - Blouses, belts, trenches, short man's trousers - I really love it all. I feel like they're usu concept over wearability, but this is all great. Suits with bows, gowns encased in ribbons, looooooove.
Vivienne Westwood - Industrial, a little military, a little girly, some trompe l'oeil. Art-school chic with the most fantastic shoes. Her cropped trousers are the coolest of the cool - how do they flare out like that? Is it just the fabric? (Photo 42)