Monday, March 08, 2004

Paris (Day 5.25)

Ok, I lied. I didnt notice that Vogue UK hadnt posted *TWENTY-FIVE* shows, but did so today. Argh. These will be split over two more days!

Akris -I read an interesting article on this designer recently. Apparently, his studio is located in the mountains of Sweden or Switzerland or somewhere neutral like that. He has little contact with the fashion world, which gives a very classic and untrendy influence to his clothes. These are surprisingly un-boring pieces. The structured jackets and flimsy blouses is always a nice look. 17,18,23,31 - very classy and safe but not at all boring and simple.

Alexander McQueen - Incredible workmanship without theatrics. Very un-McQueen, but his skills are quite evident. The slinky draped dresses (14 - a modern grecian style and 40 too, 39,45,48) and the just as slinky, impeccably cut (and so new!!! such interesting styles!) tweed suits (5,8,9,24). I have even more respect for him now. This is proof of his talent, more than any other show I've seen. So mature and sophisticated, and still drop-dead avant garde (9,20). Stunning. Inspiring.

Ann Demeulemeester - Riding clothes gone deconstructed. 9 and 33 are nice.

Balmain - Seriously missing the femininity and exactness of Oscar de la Renta...33 is nice in a predictable statement evening gown sort of way. A little bit *mature* woman.

Cacharel - I adore unexpected coat linings (4)! Why isnt this more common?! Very cute (23,37,46), but not cute enough to make me cry.

[difficulties on Vogue UK so onto (sorry)]

Chanel - A little bland, though the lace skirts are appealing (16,18). The overalls, sweatsuits, and leather pants are jaw dropping in their awfulness. This whole show reminds me of those fake Chanels you see where you think "but Chanel would never even make anything that awful!"

Collette Dinnigan - Gorgeous lace (4,7,18,35,36), though a lot of the rest are a bit mall slutty.

Chloe - Nice layering and nice dresses. I will never be able to fully get behind the caftan. Perfect trousers, delicate tops, and big and small cardigans make for a cosy fall. Some of the best dresses to dream about (30,37- the colors!).

Givenchy - Matrix-Audrey. Nice and grownup dresses (4,11,27-acidy orange is my new favorite!,29,31,36,39-or maybe yellow,43-that lace! those layers!!,45). Soft suits (13,16). Hard jackets (9,21). A seriously fantastic last collection. I hope he finds a better house that will give him the respect he deserves. I need a formal cocktail party and I need those dresses!!

Hermes - Gaultier keeping with the Hermes horsey theme...not *such* a fan. I do think the new clutch Birkins (15) are exciting and the saddle-stitched corsets (10)! Of course, all of the leathers are a dream...edgy but classic (12,21,27,46,53), as is the use of orange (24).

Hussein Chalayan - A little bulky and morose. Very nicely cut trousers though (24). And little ballet dresses (30), with fabulous hems.

John Galliano - Insanity! With a little bit of Westwood (8). A vagrant mexican Scarlet. Bizarre. Loooove the cut and sheerness of the over dresses/skirts (17). If you believe that fashion is not art, then how do you explain Galliano?

Lanvin - Sexy little things 6,14,19,41,45. Properly pretty little things 8, 20,21,22,39,40. Odd 12, 16, 43 (perhaps Nobel Prize Chic?). Militaristic chic 13. Basically, party girl clothes for every mood.

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