Tuesday, March 09, 2004

Paris (Day 5.5)

Kenzo - Mini-Galliano this season...so odd that they have so many matching influences...the Scarlet skirts, the kimono-esque dresses. Kenzo is just on a slightly less-over-the-top scale. 7,19,22,30-those tights!!!,41,45,46

Louis Vuitton - An amazing coat (1). I can honestly say I've seen nothing like it. A nice mix of textures and styles. I love the hair and capelets (12- i'm just a sucker for blue satin bows). Dark plaids sometimes come across as dated Ralph Lauren rejects, but he's used these in a modern-y vintage-y way that makes them fresh and lust-worthy (15). These daring 40s/50s dresses are just *this* side of cheesy, but in such luxe fabrics and rich colors they're *that* side of phenomenal (19,20,36,41,43). Gorgeous funny suits - 31,35...yay!

Martin Grant - Nice 60s style...28,29,32,33,34...awesome midnight blue and purple. 36 is just fabulous.

Martine Sitbon - Drapey, ruffley, nice, but maybe there have been better shows.

Nina Ricci - Very wearably, well-dressed comfort. The colors are fantastic (37,39,41). Nice girl clothes.

Revillon - Rick Owen's blah (see below), now with more fur (it's one of the oldest fur brands).

Rick Owens - boooooring. i have yet to understand his appeal. supposedly he makes paper-thin leathers...woo. There's always a prisoner-in-a-space-colony vibe and it depresses me.

Sonia Rykiel - Whatever decade is the touchpoint for 12 and 13, I'm totally in. 20s? Gorgeously bright and happy dresses, hilarious sweaters, just plain perfect dresses (did I already mention). Love the cabaret feel of the closing. I want to be so....Rykiel too!

Stella McCartney - Some more (s'more?) sleeping bag wear, maybe not quite as successful. The prints of the jackets are striking and new (11,13). Futuristic cool (16,19,37,40,46)...the dresses are the most interesting and the most lovely.

Tim van Steenbergen - Slouchy, avant-rumpled suits and dresses. I actually really like this.

Valentino - I love ties. Especially with such a feminine lace blouse (1,20). Sexy, manly ('cept that fabulous fur shrug in 10). I am crying for everything in photo 14. Oh my. Just look at every photo. Drop Dead Gorgeous. Every single one. So utterly french...masculine mixed with femme, hard with soft...perhaps he should be at YSL? I cant imagine why a celebrity would pick another designer's gowns...these are jaw-dropping.

Viktor & Rolf - Let's ignore the antlers for a moment and comment on how deceptively simple and fantastic photo 2 is. Photo 5 or 16 could be the most perfect suit I've seen. I esp like the black bow belt in 5. Are you seeing a trend of strong (not necess padded) shoulders? This is probably their least wacky show and is most def their most undeniably wearable collection. I really liked each piece. Like, a lot.

YSL Rive Gauche - The colors! The shoulders! Satin and velvet have become almost Tom Ford trademarks...these are gorgeous examples of his knowledge of women's desires. All sexy and hard and just this side of scary. The detail in the skirts is amazing (partic 30)...skirts should never be too simple, as the bit of leg showing is enough to make anything look nice. Great evening - 32,34,35. A very good final showing.

No comments: