AF Vandevorst - This version of military is not my bag. I like contradictions, but the flowers and ballerinas mixed with military jackets and details doesnt work very well. I would cut you for those boots (especially in blue -25) if you were wearing them right now though.
Andrew Gn - Not thrilled, but 15, 17, 19, 25, 32 are almost perfect. I adore the sequins...they look like Broadway blocks from here. Very cold, sexy, and I adore the poufy short sleeves.
Balenciaga - I have been waiting breathlessly for Nicolas Ghesquiere to thrill me as he did (now) several seasons ago. I'm still waiting. 16,21,22,23 are fabulous though.
Bruno Pieters - Some of this could be a toned down Yohji (14,15,17,28). Some is just plain jawdropping (2,10,25,26,27,29,31). Wow.
Gaspard Yurkievich - Either all the models are fat or he doesnt cut a very flattering silhouette. The few good pieces seem like theyve been done before (better).
Haider Ackermann - Very dorky 80, bad sci fi. I dont like the shoulders at all. I dont really like his colors or fabrics at all either.
Isabel Marant - I feel like I need to be at that party in LA in Annie Hall? Ya know, the one thrown by the guy played by Paul Simon? I'd be the hottest girl in 3 or 4. Floaty, subtle, simple, sublime. I totally dig these: 16, 19, 31, 38. The random shouts of color are so random, she should have left them out...I'm actually not bored by the rest of her palette because the pieces are so well thought out.
Junya Watanabe - Sleeping bag chic. No really. Some of the jackets look very nice (7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 26). The toned down 'bags look extremely comf (11, 21, 23, 29). The sweaters are amazing (31,32). Actually, the more I look at these, the more perfect everything seems. I think I am most impressed by this collection. So different, so covetable.
Girbaud - Iiiiinteresting pants (4, 10, 43) and jackets (5, 12, 21) and boots (8, 27,45). Is that Mad Max mixed with Edwardian? Whatever it is, I'm so in. The heavy construction of each piece leads to a perfect fit and the right amount of edge. I really loved every single look.
Vivienne Westwood - The very best in punk and deconstruction (21). Wacky ass sweaters, yes, but this outfit is luxe luxe luxe (9). I love all the extraneous ties and belts...it's the luxury version of too many zippers and useless straps (35, 46). They serve no purpose, just to make everything a little tougher, a little less pretty, a little more wrong.