Andrew Gn - I'm probably going to contradict myself later...but I really really love this guy. He can pull the best from previous and (seemingly) this season and tweak it just right to make it completely wearable. Photo 19 is last year's Chanel but not so precious. The whole beginning is Moschino but not so silly. Photo 25 is what Barbie would wear if she had a non-Vegas stylist. And I totally dig the flowers at the end. Mmmm.
[ok, Marc and I are watching the Wade Robson finale and can I say that JC Chasez is the suckiest singer/performer/person I have ever witnessed on tv? Pure shit. He even looks cheesy ugly gross.]
Celine - Michael Kors is the abs master of rich bitchiness. I love his color scheme and he stays true to his aesthetic. He *always* does this, but is there anything more decadent than cashmere with a bikini (photo 21)??
Chanel - Hohum. I do not believe I have ever felt so blah about a Chanel collection. Nothing is wrong, but nothing is right. No fantasy and considering the perfection of the previous few collections...I'm very surprised. The trench in photo 36 is just shy of perfect though.
Chloe - I can get behind the high-waisted pants but I cannot get down with the Mom pants in photo 4. Ick ick ick. I did not enjoy this collection.
Christian Dior - I cannot get enough of his signature silhouettes. I fully respect how he really stands behind his designs...he's not just throwing ideas at us, he's creating a legacy. I totally love the Gaultier-esque tattoo shirts too.
Ungaro - The abs final word in elegant sexy. I cant criticize this collection and I adore that shade of pink.
Givenchy - I guess there's nothing wrong with this unless you dont particularly feel like being Charlotte from Sex and the City every fucking day.
Helmut Lang - I get a strong tennis vibe. This is not necess a bad thing. I was just sayin'.
JPG - Another designer who stays true to his aesthetic...bondage/fencing/aeon flux.
Lanvin - Gorgeous draping...I love the bustle in 45 (check out the back in photo 46).
Louis Vuitton - The continuing saga of the disappointing Marc Jacobs. The color scheme is nice but it's totally frenetic. Trying a little too hard, a la Carrie Bradshaw. Ugh.
Martin Grant - These are classically simple, nicely executed, but a little not very original. Why do I say the same thing about Gn but in a positive way? I dont know...I guess this isnt very scientific.
Nina Ricci - Faerie-wear...lovely...angelic. I'm glad Lars Nilsson still has a job.
Stella McCartney - Faerie-wear too, but different. Gorgeously dreamy. Satisfies my fantasy while staying perfectly wearable. I would wear this every single day.
Undercover - This show will give me nightmares for sure [as will this Transsexual DiGiorno commercial].
Valentino - Sexy sophisticate, but what the fuck is up with that lace. First half and the end are a thousand times better than the middle. I guess that's why most designers show 30-40 looks and not 81!
Viktor and Rolf - Love the bows. Love the red shoes. Totally could wear this everyday. Though I hate their coats. I wanna go to a ball! (47 and 49)
YSL - Disappointed. Seemed frumpy and uncool and a little cheap on the models!! That's not a promising observation, ya know.
So...I guess my thoughts on Spring - Summer 2004? Mainly shocked and disappointed. The infallible seemed to have failed and a few that I had written off as talentless, completely surprised me. There are always good things and always a few things you didnt know you were craving...but very few gasps from this side of the shows.