Monday, October 17, 2005

New York - SPRING/SUMMER 2006 - And a little bit softer now

Ok, the 43 shows in NY alone left to cover are giving me some agita...

Project Alabama - Perfectly fitted jackets, petticoats peaking out. A cute but womanly collection.




LAMB - I'm scared!! Everyone knows how much I adore Gwen, but fashion forays never go that well. My first thought: Oy! The makeup is atrocious! My second: Is this going to really be about tracksuits? You have maybe 50 looks to show and you throw away this many opportunities on tracksuits? I'm also conflicted about how to feel when, for the last few years, you've been associated with Dior and Galliano and Westwood, and I see that influence a little too clearly. Maybe to the point of ripping off and dumbing down. I found it a little boring. And Miss Gwen looks *beat*.





Anna Sui - I dont think I can get behind the calf-length leggings under dresses or the style of pants and dresses I wore in 1987, but I do think I'm in love with her floral prints and embroidered satins. She long ago stopped inspiring me.

Badgley Mischka - Grownup, half-a-step from bland, covered up and formal, but with a few drop-dead gowns thrown in to make my pulse race.



Behnaz Sarafpour - Reminds me a little of Tom Ford - something in the severity. A little too 70s and very out of step with how I want to dress right now.


Marc by Marc Jacobs - Layers, leggings, frumpy jackets. A pastel and boring 80s nightmare, with some pleated denim to ensure that I vomit. I do like the little caps though.




Monique Lhuillier - I'm predictable, but I cant say no to pretty dresses and suits. I'm a sucker for anything an icy Hitchcock blonde would wear. She's very Oscar and Carolina and that is nothing to criticize. Not everyone should be concept and forward-thinking. My only complaint is not everything seems well-fitted?



Michael Kors - MK just makes me happy. Yes, his brand embodies everything I hate (conspicuous wealth, jet set, stereotypical blonde rich bitch), but I always feel that he's in on the joke. I mean, a camouflage gown? Not crazy for the mexican/safari prints and styles and I could never condone a highwaisted belted bikini bottom, but I love his dedication to travel and theme.



J Mendel - I am continually impressed by the RTW from this fur designer. I could even be coerced into wearing new fur if I could only have this:

Wouldnt you die to hug me in that? So simple, but not too sweet. These are ageless pieces that you could only be accused of being too pretty in...not too young. Light as air dresses and suits, but still structured enough to be taken seriously.



Zac Posen - Gold, brown, and various nude shades continue to be my favorites for spring/summer. So good with that fake tan. Pretty, but lacking any soft edge. This is how Naomi Campbell might dress to seem more girly. Not as jaw-dropping as one has come to expect...


Roland Mouret - An avant garde I can get behind. Perfectly serious asymetrical suits, romantic dresses, alternating prim and harsh looks. This seems like a wearable Yohji, which sounds like a smart business angle to me. I loooooove it - I dream of being a lawyer in a hip firm so I could rock each of these.




Calvin Klein - More stuctured and light pieces, which I think may be perfect for Spring and perfect for investing in...



Bill Blass - Blandly pretty, but nothing that grabs me as NEW and NOW...a little too Oscar retread, with an obvious slant toward woman-of-a-certain-age prints.

Diesel - Someone has watched the pussycat dolls one too many times! So sexy, so Italian - I have a renewed love for such a look. And, oh!, I'm going crazy for the little 40s military caps:

Actually, I've decided just now that I may die if I do not own that hat. Oh, and I loooove the makeup. Looooove that lip.



Matthew Williamson - The simplicity of Calvin, but with confident and sometimes campy details. I can perfectly visualize his ideal woman, and while I'm not her, I wouldnt mind being her during the workweek. Plus, his blues are just gorgeous.

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

New York - SPRING/SUMMER 2006 - Days a Few More

BCBG Max Azria - Treading on some Michael Kors territory...How can you go wrong with Rich JetSetter?

The influence of Marc Jacob's voluminous silhouette is apparent. It's a fairly easy risk, as most magazines - after the initial shock - claimed it to be the groundbreaking/beginning of a new era...

Carolina Herrera - The sportiest I've seen her. I do so love the primness of her designs, but I also like how modern and un-trashy it usually is.


Ohhhhh, and the gowns. Mmmm. Some 80s atrocities that could work on the right girl...

Some overly fussy things that dont quite work...

And some drop dead gorgeous...


Jill Stuart - Delicate lace, Victorian shapes, and pretty party dresses. Borderline boring to me - I dont like things that are too precious and antique, but the simple appearance and complex fabrics keep things interesting.



Marc Jacobs - A weird sort of sloppy stiffness. Very unfitted and slightly mis- or de- constructed mixed with very prim and stiff jackets. Like a not-at-all-sexy schoolgirl...though I'm all about sexy girls in not-traditionally-sexy clothes. Much prettier than I expected...he seems to have reined in the ugly-pretty and gone for a more Oscar than Prada sophistication. (And actually a little minimalist Calvin for the evening wear).




Oscar de la Renta - Some more of the ethnic-y appliques, gorgeously simple suits and trousers, and surprising colors. This gold looks so wearable. I think I'm definitely lusting after oversized sleeve blouses for Spring...and those signature lace frocks. Sigh...I really like certain pieces, but it's a rather diverse show. I'm not sure what the message is.





Proenza Schouler - Marc Jacobs-y anti-sexy. A little Balenciaga schoolmarm. Lots of visible technique. This isnt draping fabric on a mannequin.





Temperley - Heart-wrenchingly pretty dresses! So romantic, so unexpected. Girly drama, but built for fun.




Tuleh - Celestial and floral fabrics, breezy cuts, a tad simple and bland - except when paired with horrid fabric combinations - then just ugly. Not so impressed (except the first photo below).


Friday, September 09, 2005

New York - SPRING/SUMMER 2006 - Days a Few

Naum - While having the worst name I've ever heard (very close to NARM, which I know not from watching "Six Feet Under", but because it swept the internet a few weeks ago), it's not as bad as you might expect. I'm reading a lot of complaints of 'designers' seeming to only drape fabric on a mannequin and call it fashion, but I do think in a way that is the silhouette of the last season and - apparently - this. At the very least, it looks easy and comfortable.


Diane von Furstenberg - Classic pretty party girl. I like it, though I'm a little afraid we'll soon be seeing Paris fuckingHilton in all of these. With the same hair. The prints are fantastic, of course.


I forgot how much I love navy and fushia...



Alexandre Herchovitch - A little Anna Sui. A little ugly. I still like this dress though.


Costello Taliapietra - Halston-y, Calvin Klein-y...

Brian Reyes - Simple work clothes, mixed with the most horrid sheer blouses. Does a mom's vacation button-up really need to be in sheer black? With pockets over the boobs, of course?



Doo Ri - The barest, most simple at first look, but on the second the detail and excitement are clear. I'm not sure what kind of undergarments one could wear under such drapey fabric, though I'm pretty sure you shouldnt have any curves in them regardless.



Imitation of Christ - Now, I do think Scarlett Johannson is maybe the prettiest person ever, but I'm not loving her look here. It could be the clothing made by a talentless hack though. Do a quick double-take. Is that or is that not Anna Nicole Smith? Maybe in something Bobby Trendy styled? Ok, I'm being mean. That was a horrible image to put in your head. To be honest, it's not nearly as horrible as it usually is. Maybe because of the heavy denim flavor. I cant say no to denim. I'm Texan.

I just want to know how she manages to make shows that are spectacles, but look seriously un-fun. The florals are beyond bland. Blah.

Kenneth Cole - Breezy, work wearable. I'm slowly coming around to the idea of shorts as formal and business wear. I'm only half kidding. I'm still undecided on above-waist pants. No, actually, I think theyre awful. Unless, perhaps, you have a 39-inch inseam.



Lacoste - Marc's signature label. I'd loooove to get him this:

But, goddamn, those women's hats and kneepads are giving me seizures.

Luca Luca - Ooooooh. Ive found my favorite. Supposedly passe ladylike looks, but more in the vein of Lucy Ricardo. How can I say no?







Luella - My jaw is on the ground and I want to cry with wanting all of this so much. I want to be this:

Ridiculously cool, confident, irreverantly pirate. The hair, the sequins, the colors, the heels...





Nicole Miller - Thank god Nicolette Sheridan and baseball wives will always have a place to buy clothes. I do like this though: