Thursday, February 23, 2006

Milan - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, cont cont

Emporio Armani-
Pretty textured suits - either with ruffles, pleats, or alternating fabric stripes. Very formal, but confidently sexy.


Gucci-
Disco, jet-set, a little sleazy. In case you were wondering, now's the time for perfect legs. All about draping and leanness.


Jenny Packham-
Grown-up and vampy glamour gowns, with a slight dusty vintage edge to them.


Jil Sander-
Yawn. Dont waste your time.

Marni-
Similarly tunic-styled dresses, jackets, and blouses; wide-legged trousers; boxy cropped jackets with 3/4 length sleeves. A very proper collection with enough "off"-ness to make it totally wearable and covetable.




Philosophy-
Prim dresses and coats, with the occasional nip of a waist or flash of skin. I'm thinking you cant go wrong with little 60s/70s hostess dresses (well, would that ever be wrong?).


Pollini-Rifat Ozbek-
You cant say you feel a 60s vibe here, these are full-on vintage dresses. That said, I love them and I love the prints and matching boots.



Prada-
Structured pieces, but not too formal. More naturally pretty than previous collections, but also a bit tougher. These cool girls know what's going on, and they definitely know it more than you.



Salvatore Ferragamo-
Love the brown tights, blue shoes, green gloves. So unexpected in color, but classic and cool in shape.


Milan - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, cont.

Alberta Ferretti-
Modernized and shiny-fied hostess dresses. Dramatic styles that look effortless to wear. Dresses dresses dresses. Do you feel compelled yet? I'm in love with those webbed tights too.



Blumarine-
The coolest Italian snowbunnies, who have no intention of touching snow (you really cant in silk brocade with fur trim or in a strapless dress with a cardigan). Maybe the perfect things to wear to get out of the back of a Towncar, with a driver holding an umbrella.


Etro-
I'm not really feeling the boxy coats and jackets - we've seen it better on other runways. These just seem sort of middle-aged JC Penneys (no offense to JCP). The dresses are nice, on the whole, but the prints seem a little dated and faded. I think I'm looking for more richness - a little more of this:

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Milan - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007

Bottega Veneta-
Pretty wool suits and dresses. More than anything, I'd sell you out for one of their handbags.



D&G-
Loooove the snow on the runway. Dorky/wacky snowbunny gear, but wearable sweaters and dresses. Very cozy. I'm going to draw a line a cable-knit panties though.



Pucci-
Adorable dresses, dorky-cute bows.


Armani-
Vampy skirts, cancan ruffles, surprisingly interesting and sexy.

Monday, February 20, 2006

London - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007 cont.

Ashish-
Cute skirts with rather shapeless blouses and jackets. Not so flattering.

Boyd-
Pretty coats and dresses. I definitely want to fulfill my dress search this year - no luck last year.


Katarzyna Szczotarska-
I'm all for the looser silhouette, but I dont know if I can get behind potato sacks.


Tata-Naka-
I'm a sucker for trompe l'oeil, but a lot of this is a little too Minnie Mouse Dynasty.


I'm just not that excited by London.

Monday, February 13, 2006

New York - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007 cont. x5

So apparently I'm now covering Ugly Day on the Runways. Today's photos are a sampling of the hideous things I'm seeing - except for the Boudicca, Matthew Williamsons, Strenesse (mostly), and - gasp - Sweetface.

Boudicca-
Deconstructed tuxedos. Shirts and jackets and trousers-cum-gauchos. It actually works. Harsh and edgy in black and white and multiple textures and layers.



Catherine Malandrino-
Quilted jackets and 60s space age, folk, and obnoxious prints, but not in an obvious copy or reintroduction. Subtle influence on fluid and fairly unstructured pieces. And Mary J Blige. Huh?



Donna Karan-
Some very old-lady-looking suits and some sheerness that we will not speak of because then we will cry. Just take one quick look and scroll down. Cliched kimono jackets...frankly, this all just seems very dated and ugly.
ICK:


Lagerfeld Gallery-
I have never understood how this label can be soooo wrong and Chanel can be so right. I guess he is just trying to keep them separate, but poor LG ends up with all the bad ideas. Feather cuffs?? Grey puckered bits of fabrics randomly affixed to black sweaters?? Dual satin fanny packs worn under the boob??
Exhibit 121 of Bad Bad Bad Clothing Ideas:


Matthew Williamson-
1972 Jetset Hostess Wear. I like the collars and 3-button belts of the jackets (especially when you later see them filtered into a sweater and a blouse), the ugly color combinations that just seem right, sailor pants (though a tad long and billowy), the nickel-sized silver and gold sequins, the sash belts - all smart ideas that can be pretty safely incorporated into our wardrobes. I feel like his garishness has grown up a bit, which is a nice change and separates him from a lot of what younger designers are attempting. Or maybe it's just a better balance of the ugly and pretty, the garish and the classic.



Nathan Jenden-
Sexy power suits but with big weird bows, awkwardly slashed blouses, and the puffy short sleeve. Oh, and some of the worst models I've seen. I'm feeling not very generous today. While some of this is definitely unusual, it also doesnt seem very inspired or even attractive.
Worst Model/Outfit/Hairstyle in History:


Ralph Rucci Chado-
Would you say leather pants and floor length fur is too much? I am never impressed by his designs, but now I see that his boring plain stuff is better because at least you dont dry heave on sight. Seriously old-lady. Even the furs are ugly. And his prints are actually making me nauseous.




Strenesse-
Simple but pretty basics. Pencil skirts with satin slips peeking out and wide collared coats. Things got a little ugly at the end, with a not very appealing floral print and acidy sheer dresses, but nice work clothes otherwise. The show could have been a lot shorter if you cut out the skirt/trousers and turtleneck monotony, but this is probably how we'll be dressing come Fall.


Sweetface-
Without the retarded spectacle of a $1million but still very ghetto show, JLo's label seems surprisingly sweet. Hooded sweaters, belted everything are flattering and wearable. Surprisingly demure sexiness makes me forget that I just said that I liked JLo's clothes.
I want to wear this outfit every single day:

Sunday, February 12, 2006

Fashion Critic

I would never claim to be a critic. I have never been to design school, I cant recognize fabrics on sight, I dont get most references (although, to be fair, the references are often given in pre and post show interviews with designers and in show notes, which I have no access to), so it's hard for me to make intelligent and insightful comments on the shows. I like to think that I'm giving useful information to you guys, so you can decide which shows to look at fully or skip completely or what things to look for on your next shopping spree.

There's an interesting article in today's NYT by Cathy Horyn - a critic I enjoy reading because she seems to give pretty level coverage while maintaining a foot on the side of realism. Most magazines no longer give any negative critique of shows, I guess in fear of endangering million dollar ad sales, so reading honest praise and criticism is rare and very educational. The article makes me realize that I need to concentrate on seeing a show as a whole - recognizing the themes and seeing general flaws and directions, rather than focusing on individual pieces. I tend to fast forward over boring looks and shows, and I'm missing key elements and directions by doing so.

Not that any of this matters! I cant help but feel like this is my job, even though I know most of you have grown to hate fashion weeks! But, like my boxes of magazine tearouts, maybe one day they will be of use to me. In what way, I have no idea at the moment.

Friday, February 10, 2006

New York - Autumn/Winter 2006-2007 cont. x4

Calvin Klein-
Plain ole same ole, but with lace and sheer and fur in place of the standard knits.

Derek Lam-
Chains, modest ruffling, one-shouldered no-shouldered and strapless gowns without even the hint of cliched disco. So classy but so bold.



JMendel-
Luxe. Classic. A little boring. Surprisingly pretty cocktail dresses and gowns and non-roll-of-carpet furs.


Phi-
Quirky prints, sharp tailoring. Anna Sui-ish dresses. I like it. They seem like things my mom would make me (a good thing).


Proenza Schouler-
A tad more sedate than usual. A boxier, less fitted cut. I'm really digging this print too:

And these totally surprising sequins:


Temperley-
Oooooh the dresses! And prints! A little 80s, a little 60s, all totally fierce.



Vera Wang-
Surprisingly somber suits and dresses. Maybe she's trying to dress us for all the important events of our lives? Bridesmaid, wedding, funeral? Still very beautiful and posh and appear extremely well-made.



Wunderkind-
Seriously cool. Sharp suits, modern animal prints, futuristic-folk dresses. I like it.



Zac Posen-
Skinny pants! Mini skirts! All manners of skirts, actually!



Zero-
Nice prints, but a little Padme's Street Clothes.