Monique Lhuilier - Just plain gorgeous. Severe and sexy and metallic. Disco without a hint of vintage. The ruffles (!) and draping, just perfectly done. I am loving the hair and makeup too.
Bill Blass - Technicolor coats and dresses. Beautifully fitted, grownup clothes. *Perfect* hair and makeup.
Chaiken - Cozy jerseys, sharp dresses and trousers.
Derek Lam - Uncharacteristically dull. Weird patchworking. Mismatched draped fabrics.
Behnaz Sarafpour - I think her strengths lie in skirts and blouses. Her dresses are a bit too shapeless here.
Rodarte - Very pretty details, but as a whole look it's overdone and bordering on ugly. Ugly, but made from the prettiest pieces. Too too too much. The simple things are almost perfect though.
Narciso Rodriguez - The impact of his minimalism is so much greater after the sensory-overload of the Rodarte show. Just pretty and 100% wearable straight off the runway.
Temperley - Story-book heroine dressing, with adorable dresses, ruffles, and lace appliques. Gorgeous.
Betsey Johnson - Of course, fun dresses. I have to love any show that features aprons, even in jest. Perfect party wear.
Doo Ri - S-E-X-Y. A little Tom Ford Gucci. Best example of layering and draping done right.
Philosophy - Weird prints and lace overlays. The dresses and coats are standouts though.
Jason Wu - Pretty pretty dresses. A nice mix of off-colors and metallics. Stiff, formal fabrics, but the pieces seem so easy.
Heatherette - I'll let this photo explain this show and let you ponder where their funding comes from.