AF Vandevorst - Wacky but chic. A little of the Mad Max deconstruction, but retaining a softer edge. A future that doesnt look so bleak.
Balenciaga - Military jackets and the absolute sleekest trousers make for a sexy, hard edge but not in the icy Gucci way...a little more fun and vintage.
I also love the sleek dresses with silly/fuzzy/flowery accents
or with just some fantastic draping.
Bernhard Wilhelm - Waaah. I just dont know what to say. I just want to curl up in a corner and cry.
Just remember, someone *paid* for this show and these clothes to be made.
Bruno Pieters - So stiff and precise and modern (though maybe a bit too Helmut Lang-y). He's best in non-knits:
Vivienne Westwood - Her clothes always seem better in hindsight, which I suppose says a lot. Or perhaps it says that I never like her shows themselves, the way things are presented. For instance, this reminds me of the Dolce&Gabbanna Pax show from a few years back - cheesy. If I concentrate really hard on the clothes, I can make out how great these dresses are, so feminine, but so mannish, so punk.
I can also see what a sense of humor she has. At first glance, it's a girl in a suit. On second, it's a pair of sexy low-rise pants over a pair of dorky high-waisted, elastic band pants and a waiter's double-breasted under a sleek satin suit jacket.
Yohji Yamamoto - Ooooh. Maybe the most perfect selection of winter coats:
I think if I were to ever splurge on a designer suit, I'd go Yohji. My Benettons work just fine for classic. I'd spend serious money only on something truly mind blowing, and that is a Yohji jacket. Also, it's so far from being classic that it can never be out of style. It was never in...that's a good thing to strive for in any part of a wardrobe.
Tomorrow I will introduce a word other than "sleek" into my vocab.