![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/AF_Vandevorst/00140f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/AF_Vandevorst/00180f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/AF_Vandevorst/00250f.jpg)
Balenciaga - Military jackets and the absolute sleekest trousers make for a sexy, hard edge but not in the icy Gucci way...a little more fun and vintage.
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Balenciaga/00030f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Balenciaga/00160f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Balenciaga/00360f.jpg)
or with just some fantastic draping.
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Balenciaga/00280f.jpg)
Bernhard Wilhelm - Waaah. I just dont know what to say. I just want to curl up in a corner and cry.
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Bernhard_Willhelm/wil013.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Bernhard_Willhelm/wil035.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Bernhard_Willhelm/wil037.jpg)
Just remember, someone *paid* for this show and these clothes to be made.
Bruno Pieters - So stiff and precise and modern (though maybe a bit too Helmut Lang-y). He's best in non-knits:
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Bruno_Pieters/00010f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Bruno_Pieters/00280f.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood - Her clothes always seem better in hindsight, which I suppose says a lot. Or perhaps it says that I never like her shows themselves, the way things are presented. For instance, this reminds me of the Dolce&Gabbanna Pax show from a few years back - cheesy. If I concentrate really hard on the clothes, I can make out how great these dresses are, so feminine, but so mannish, so punk.
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Vivienne_Westwood/wes011.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Vivienne_Westwood/wes018.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Vivienne_Westwood/wes012.jpg)
Yohji Yamamoto - Ooooh. Maybe the most perfect selection of winter coats:
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Yohji_Yamamoto/00010f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Yohji_Yamamoto/00030f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/Paris/R-T-W/Yohji_Yamamoto/00120f.jpg)
I think if I were to ever splurge on a designer suit, I'd go Yohji. My Benettons work just fine for classic. I'd spend serious money only on something truly mind blowing, and that is a Yohji jacket. Also, it's so far from being classic that it can never be out of style. It was never in...that's a good thing to strive for in any part of a wardrobe.
Tomorrow I will introduce a word other than "sleek" into my vocab.
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