Wednesday, October 19, 2005

Milan - SPRING/SUMMER 2006 - Menichetti to Versace

You know what I think is funny? These totally meaningless obsessions we all have and the agreed-upon importance of different features of the obsession. For instance, last night we became the last people on the planet to watch "Sideways", and all of the totally not-even-very-classy and seemingly ill-mannered ways to sample a glass of wine. I wonder how each of the quirks came about - yes, they're all very practical in the information that they obtain - and how they became acceptable ways of doing so in public. Similarly, at a fashion show: the catwalk, the unsmiling model, the catwalk strut that bears no resemblance to an actual human's walk, even the model's figure. How were all of these things decided on? Yes, some are practical, but how did they become the unquestionable standard?

Menichetti - Surprisingly somber for a Spring collection - only a few pale dresses and spring coats to clue us in.

Missoni - Light and fun - the signature patterns are hard to take too seriously. I like that their clothes inherently appear vintage. Whatever fabric or thread that they use has that polyester-in-a-good-way sheen. Floaty florals and laces are a nice addition.

Miu Miu - Omg. I love the normal-sized glasses and the stars and the color and the white t's underneath everything. Love love love.

Moschino - Not-quite-as-ugly cowgirls, but some nice prints and skirts and shoes. And I'm a sucker from trompe l'oeil and capes!

Philosophy - It's hard for me to focus on anything more than the bad wigs - which are a cute hairstyle choice for some and a hyper-obvious and unflattering choice for others. A little too bland and a little too ladylike-and-with-zero-irony for my tastes. Or maybe it's just the wigs?

Pollini-Rifat Ozbek - Yawn. With a cute dress or two...

Prada - Ready to see what they'll be carrying at the gap in 4 years? Apparently old Helmut Lang! Nothing flashy (except for shoes and, uh, clear visors). Simple fabrics, solid neutral colors, little decoration, thin belts - everything loosely fitted, but exposed nipples are still OK and maybe some gold lace too. Likeable but not earth-shattering to my lust, though perhaps earth-shattering to fashion.

Roberto Cavalli - At the other end of the fashion (and respect and talent and good taste) spectrum, we have garish glam glam glammed up and living-like-it's-1999-or-maybe-1986 Cavalli. I do like this shirt/skirt/dress?:

Trend note: big black gingham is everywhere for Spring (and like *crazy* on this partic runway, but even if you hate Cavalli like I do - it was also seen on much better runways too).

Versace - Surprising pretty and sexy and lacking all manner of obnoxious - nude and caramel shades on body-hugging-but-covering dresses and shorts and suits. Very grown-up YSL - I'm actually a little proud of stupid Donatella.

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