![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/New_York/R-T-W/Boudicca/00110f.jpg)
The poof sleeved jackets are the more futuristic version of that Yohji jacket I died for a few years ago.
Calvin Klein - Too dark to make out many details. The leather?vinyl? pieces appear limp and ill-fitting and in the most unappealing shades. The fitted coatdresses with tall boots seem nice and are (thankfully) not at all 60s in tone. I really like the back of the chartreuse gown:
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/New_York/R-T-W/Calvin_Klein/00370f.jpg)
I always think a little gathering makes things so much girlier.
Diesel - If you can get past the abominations in denim and fringe, there are some good pieces. Such as the slit skirts and petticoats and wackily belted jackets.
J.Mendel - Ok, I'm seriously getting obsessed with the 3/4-length-bell-sleeved jacket. I really love the tie on this dress:
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/New_York/R-T-W/J.Mendel/00110f.jpg)
All in all, surprisingly edgy mixed with the expected pretty and fur. Plus, I will never not love a blood velvet tuxedo.
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/New_York/R-T-W/J.Mendel/00130f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/New_York/R-T-W/J.Mendel/00280f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/New_York/R-T-W/J.Mendel/00390f.jpg)
Pretty impressive for a furrier, not a Fourier.
Jeffrey Chow - The prettiest, coolest schoolteacher. Maybe a little Kate Hepburn, with the boxy plaids and pulled-back hair.
Peter Som - Russian princess-Heidi-schoolgirl? It works. The colors are great, the dresses are gorgeous.
Vera Wang - Pretty fabrics, but everything seems a little limp, like everyone is unexcited and has bad posture. The belts are nice though.
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/New_York/R-T-W/Vera_Wang/00340f.jpg)
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/New_York/R-T-W/Vera_Wang/00500f.jpg)
Wunderkind - Cute dresses but hideous pants. So high-waisted and bulgy around the stomach...a very bad dorky vision.
Zac Posen - Oooh, such a rich but surprisingly fun look.
![](http://www.vogue.co.uk/ImageLib/320x480/Shows/AW2005/New_York/R-T-W/Zac_Posen/00020f.jpg)
Overly-tailored and detailed, but in a good way. I like that he doesnt do anything small and he never takes the simple and pretty (easy) route. Very pretty, but also very interesting - a little off. In the wrong hands, everything could be extremely ugly.
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