Bottega Veneta - I need this type of sleepy sweater (9) to laze about in but still maintain the idea of style. 26 is the essence of chic...not that I'm crazy about fur, but this has a vintage-y vibe, so I'll let it pass. Overall, I just love the nude mixed with bright colors. I'm crazy for nude right now. I hate my skintone, so wearing nude colors makes me feel perfectly complected. And who can say no to green shoes, I ask?
D&G - Not sexy enough for my D&G expectations, but the layering of colors and design in 16 is very lust-worthy. The coat in 31 is soooooooo fantabulous. Seriously, the color, the bow, the lining. You could wear that for the next 30 years and never be bored or boring.
DSquared2 - I will never be excited for lumberjacks. The cut of their pants seems very nice tho (6,26). That chocolate satin is dreamy of course (42) and with the belt, it reminds me a little of Tracy's wedding dress in The Philadelphia Story.
Emilio Pucci - Oh! These suits are wild, but there's something elegant and wearable about them even though theyre so unconservative (3,4,8). The dresses are a dream (7,12,19,24,28,36,38,40)...even something as small as the patterned tights could make the largest impact on any wardrobe (10). I feel these prints are amazingly timeless and the shade of the colors are so perfectly fall. Lacroix cuts a mean flirt. These arent for boring pretty girls.
Emporio Armani - 87 fucking photos?! The black pants are exactly as I like. Tight tight tight with a little flare at the hem and with the hem noticeably too short. I like the black tights underneath too. The jackets are way 80s cheese (and not in a good way by any means). The fabrics too seem a bit dated...the shiny pewter and velvet. I think it's very hard to cut a modern velvet piece. Who's that girl singing onstage?
Gucci - Tom Ford's final show for Gucci. I still dream of owning pieces from his first shows. His referenced eras are so instantly recognizable, but they are almost always fresh and modern. He knows nothing if not what women covet. First of all, those sunglasses! Second, the jacket in 10...I want those structured elbows! The crazy pants in 22 and 23!! The pure sultry sexiness of 31 And even though I care nothing for men's fashion - I LOVE 37! It's a little wrong and could be a total nightmare, but with the right amounts of pretty and scruffy it will be perfect. He's a lot of flash, but he has done so much good! *And* he's from Texas. Sniff.
MaxMara - Simple. I like pants tucked in boots. I hate this plaid: 27. Not much else to say.
Prada - I'm not digging the ultra-rounded busts (8,10). But I will never get tired of her 50s Italian aesthetic (12,19)(why did The Talented Mr Ripley have to look so good but be so bad [the movie, that is. the book is excellent]??). The higher waistlines are a nice change, as are her not-so-precise prints and colors (26,28,33,55). I think this started last season with the seemingly-handpainted full skirts. The coats are exquisite in a Grandmother's castoff sort of way (23,29,49).
The only one slower about posting these reviews is VogueUK!! This is crazy!
Thursday, February 26, 2004
Tuesday, February 24, 2004
Milan (Day 1)
Alberta Ferretti - Her clothes always make me think of a sexy Italian widow. Antique lace and tulle pulled out of a trunk and fashioned into an elegant but youthful charm. The clothing of a long dead girl or a ghost, a la Dark Shadows. I am *aching* for her dresses. 13,16,28,29,44,48,49,50,52
Alessandro Dell Acqua - I love midnight velvet! I feel his coats are a little bulky and that the show didnt have much of a theme or style. I like the idea of so many of the pieces more than the reality. Something about the fit or the color or the style always screwed up the pleasure. It's just never a good sign when the clothes arent flattering to the models.
Anna Molinari - I always love her designs for Blumarine as the colors and fabrics and cuts are so ethereal, but here the collection is so heavy. Even the wisps of 17 and 30 seem stiff and grave. 38,45,48 are an improvement - I will kill for the coat in 38...I love the golds and purples (of course).
Giorgio Armani - Man, 101 photos! Man, a lot of black! Yawn. I'm not crazy about this 80s silhouette...long jacket, long skirt. The weird pants/skirt/shoes all in matching blah grey/brown is ick. I'm so bored! It's never going to end! Even the shocking pink at the end couldnt wake me.
Lawrence Steele - Some gorgeous coats and prints. I am a bit iffy about the fit of certain pieces, but the girlish charm of the rest sways me. The colors and floaty fabrics are such a welcome departure from the depressing (and boring to the eye) black. His coats look so cozy and cool - eccentric pieces that will become the owner's signature. 9,11,12,21,26, oh yes.
Pollini - Rifat Ozbek - I'm not sure how I could possibly respect anyone who likes those boots. They make all of the models appear to have gigantic knees and thighs! Just imagine what a regular girl would look like?! 6,11,12 are nice in a Gypsy schoolgirl way. I want to hug that sweater in 16 and I will walk over you to get my hands on 20. I want that to be my signature jacket! Over jeans, a tiny miniskirt, a long slip! I want it. I really like the old-fashioned fit and feel of this whole bit.
Alessandro Dell Acqua - I love midnight velvet! I feel his coats are a little bulky and that the show didnt have much of a theme or style. I like the idea of so many of the pieces more than the reality. Something about the fit or the color or the style always screwed up the pleasure. It's just never a good sign when the clothes arent flattering to the models.
Anna Molinari - I always love her designs for Blumarine as the colors and fabrics and cuts are so ethereal, but here the collection is so heavy. Even the wisps of 17 and 30 seem stiff and grave. 38,45,48 are an improvement - I will kill for the coat in 38...I love the golds and purples (of course).
Giorgio Armani - Man, 101 photos! Man, a lot of black! Yawn. I'm not crazy about this 80s silhouette...long jacket, long skirt. The weird pants/skirt/shoes all in matching blah grey/brown is ick. I'm so bored! It's never going to end! Even the shocking pink at the end couldnt wake me.
Lawrence Steele - Some gorgeous coats and prints. I am a bit iffy about the fit of certain pieces, but the girlish charm of the rest sways me. The colors and floaty fabrics are such a welcome departure from the depressing (and boring to the eye) black. His coats look so cozy and cool - eccentric pieces that will become the owner's signature. 9,11,12,21,26, oh yes.
Pollini - Rifat Ozbek - I'm not sure how I could possibly respect anyone who likes those boots. They make all of the models appear to have gigantic knees and thighs! Just imagine what a regular girl would look like?! 6,11,12 are nice in a Gypsy schoolgirl way. I want to hug that sweater in 16 and I will walk over you to get my hands on 20. I want that to be my signature jacket! Over jeans, a tiny miniskirt, a long slip! I want it. I really like the old-fashioned fit and feel of this whole bit.
Sunday, February 22, 2004
London is Dead (day 5)
The final two London shows are surprisingly worth the wait. They're both so fresh and so young and so silly.
Red or Dead - How much fun to wear that poodle suit in the most buttoned-up of meetings? Or just those glorious tights and sweater? I'm a sucker for ugly/pretty and a chance to flash some leg.
Zakee Shariff - I will say that I love that wallpaper more than the collection, but only because that wallpaper is so spooky perfect. I love the bit of print peeking through the pleat in 12. I had a dream a few months ago about a pleated skirt with a similar peeking-through fabric idea.
Red or Dead - How much fun to wear that poodle suit in the most buttoned-up of meetings? Or just those glorious tights and sweater? I'm a sucker for ugly/pretty and a chance to flash some leg.
Zakee Shariff - I will say that I love that wallpaper more than the collection, but only because that wallpaper is so spooky perfect. I love the bit of print peeking through the pleat in 12. I had a dream a few months ago about a pleated skirt with a similar peeking-through fabric idea.
Friday, February 20, 2004
London (Day 4)
Ghost - Simple sportswear, complicated jacket (10). The grey shoes are lovely (14). 19 – 70s sportswear chic. I’m really digging the cut of these pants (23) 33, 34, 35, 36 – the colors and cuts are just lovely.
Julien Macdonald - A little 70s dumb kitten (5). The kitten collars and wide lapel trenches could never be wrong. His colors are on fire, so warm and sexy (12,13,18,19). 35 is just lovely for an iceskating party. Why don’t people have iceskating parties?
Miki Fukai - It reminds me a bit of my beloved brand Label. 14 is quite interesting too.
Pringle - The greens and leather belts are quite properly off (3,5,13). I always fall for knickers. I had a similar pair in sky blue corduroy in 2nd grade (17). Bubble gum pink makes them irresistible. I’m so digging the twinset remade as sweater and scarf, especially argyle (11,22). Very wearable sophisticated school girl gear.
Robert Cary-Williams - Bulky goth. I’m reminded of broken antique dolls and that freaks me out.
Julien Macdonald - A little 70s dumb kitten (5). The kitten collars and wide lapel trenches could never be wrong. His colors are on fire, so warm and sexy (12,13,18,19). 35 is just lovely for an iceskating party. Why don’t people have iceskating parties?
Miki Fukai - It reminds me a bit of my beloved brand Label. 14 is quite interesting too.
Pringle - The greens and leather belts are quite properly off (3,5,13). I always fall for knickers. I had a similar pair in sky blue corduroy in 2nd grade (17). Bubble gum pink makes them irresistible. I’m so digging the twinset remade as sweater and scarf, especially argyle (11,22). Very wearable sophisticated school girl gear.
Robert Cary-Williams - Bulky goth. I’m reminded of broken antique dolls and that freaks me out.
Wednesday, February 18, 2004
London (day 3)
Allegra Hicks - Proper British suitings and slightly off tailoring. Please see 2, 10, 15, 24, 52 for details. This is how I would love to be.
Betty Jackson - Direct your attention to 1,7,15,36,43. Kind of middle-aged lady, but stressing the lady part. Well-made and unboring.
Eley Kishimoto - 1- yes yes yes yes yes, the style, the cut, the print. I live and die by the apron (4). 44 is almost a christmas sweater and it scares me that a seemingly cool brand could have produced such a piece of shit. 39,40 are the sexy cocktail waitress that you aspire to be whenever you sing "dont, dont you want me". The shoes in 35 are so 1994 YSL, that I may cry. Shoes such as these (though in gorgeous midnight blue with gold soles) were the star of a YSL ad that became my first magazine ripping (single tear). It was part of my wall collage for most of college years.
Fashion East-Ebru Ercon - I always wonder, does sloppy draping and bland colors all you need to be a designer? Some shows (like this) make me certain that I could do this industry.
Jasper Conran - Wow. 5,9,10,31,33,35. I usu hate all blacks and whites (hard for me to see), but this just looks so crisp and cool and a little scary-tough. Those boots are fucking amazing and the hair, the hair! I love.
Jonathan Saunders - Eww.
Nicole Farhi - Please click directly to 1,17,39,41,45,50. Simple and lovely. Delicate, but solid pieces. I love the smoky/dusty quality to the black velvet and whatever fabric that is in 44 and 45. Again, it's like something pulled out of a 20s steamer trunk. I think you would always be the prettiest, subtlest, most put-together girl in all of these.
Preen - 5 and 29 are nice, but a little to unwearably layered and blandly Helmut Lang.
Rafael Lopez - The jacket in photo 1 has just taken over as Most Coveted Suit Jacket from the herringbone, puffy sleeved Yohji from last fall (photo 36). An interesting lot of jackets and sailor dresses, but see 13 and 14 for sexy cool.
Sophia Kokosalaki - A little diff to see, but the twisting and gathering and rich colors and tight fit are just perfect (1,2,3). I'm sure up close, the detail is even more impressive.
Tata-Naka - I didnt know I could be so ok with gypsy. It's never my favorite look, but I like the paisley of 6, the simple but wrong elegance, sportswear styling of 7, the lush browns and layerings of 8, and the sweetly sexy bubblegum lingerie look of 26.
Betty Jackson - Direct your attention to 1,7,15,36,43. Kind of middle-aged lady, but stressing the lady part. Well-made and unboring.
Eley Kishimoto - 1- yes yes yes yes yes, the style, the cut, the print. I live and die by the apron (4). 44 is almost a christmas sweater and it scares me that a seemingly cool brand could have produced such a piece of shit. 39,40 are the sexy cocktail waitress that you aspire to be whenever you sing "dont, dont you want me". The shoes in 35 are so 1994 YSL, that I may cry. Shoes such as these (though in gorgeous midnight blue with gold soles) were the star of a YSL ad that became my first magazine ripping (single tear). It was part of my wall collage for most of college years.
Fashion East-Ebru Ercon - I always wonder, does sloppy draping and bland colors all you need to be a designer? Some shows (like this) make me certain that I could do this industry.
Jasper Conran - Wow. 5,9,10,31,33,35. I usu hate all blacks and whites (hard for me to see), but this just looks so crisp and cool and a little scary-tough. Those boots are fucking amazing and the hair, the hair! I love.
Jonathan Saunders - Eww.
Nicole Farhi - Please click directly to 1,17,39,41,45,50. Simple and lovely. Delicate, but solid pieces. I love the smoky/dusty quality to the black velvet and whatever fabric that is in 44 and 45. Again, it's like something pulled out of a 20s steamer trunk. I think you would always be the prettiest, subtlest, most put-together girl in all of these.
Preen - 5 and 29 are nice, but a little to unwearably layered and blandly Helmut Lang.
Rafael Lopez - The jacket in photo 1 has just taken over as Most Coveted Suit Jacket from the herringbone, puffy sleeved Yohji from last fall (photo 36). An interesting lot of jackets and sailor dresses, but see 13 and 14 for sexy cool.
Sophia Kokosalaki - A little diff to see, but the twisting and gathering and rich colors and tight fit are just perfect (1,2,3). I'm sure up close, the detail is even more impressive.
Tata-Naka - I didnt know I could be so ok with gypsy. It's never my favorite look, but I like the paisley of 6, the simple but wrong elegance, sportswear styling of 7, the lush browns and layerings of 8, and the sweetly sexy bubblegum lingerie look of 26.
Tuesday, February 17, 2004
On to London (day 1 and 2)
Arkadius - some wearable. a lot awkward.
Ben de Lisi - The dresses are floaty, dreamy. Everything else is Wet Seal cheese. And Photo 50 is in the running for worst outfit in history.
Bora Aksu - So very Dr Who sidekick. He layers while maintaining a slim silhouette. Photo 5 is the perfect Autumn dress...let's go lay out in the park. Can you go wrong with 70s-era SciFi? One problem, though, he somehow made the models appear to have gigantic thighs and calves. I hope it's just the lighting/angle.
Boudicca - No.
ChenPascual - Eh.
Clements Ribeiro - Fuuuuun prints. I love this evil chevron sweater in photo 13. The modern flapper styles, leopard print, and wacky stripes make these clothes all appear vintage. How weird that wacky can seem timeless.
Emma Cook - I like the opposing fits of her dresses (5, 7, 21). The applique concept seems a little un-fresh, as it's so linked with Nicholas Ghesquire.
Fashion East-Alistair Carr - 4,13,14 are all pretty cool, but maybe I actually like the socks best? Not bad at all though. If he had more funding for more looks and perhaps better fabrics, this would be really great.
Fashion East-Richard Nicholl - Baggy lumberjack, mulleted pickup driver, I dont want to look like any of this.
FrostFrench - A more substantial collection for them, yes, but also less fun and girlish. I always like their knits and everything here is very rough. Definitely original, just not my aesthetic perhaps.
Gharani Strok - Too Gucci/Tom Ford YSL. Nothing bad, just doesnt seem so orig.
Gibo - Weird hats. Hardly my favorite. Not too memorable, unless you're crazy about raincoats.
Giles Deacon - Every outfit seems so wrong, but I want it all. The chaos of styles works for a girl who loves dressup and doesnt mind a bit of costume. The big prints of 1, 19, 23 are dramatic but not overpowering. And his surprisingly sexy caftans are quite thought-provoking. I think it's all in the fabric...
House of Jazz - Drapey. Blah.
Jenny Packham - Snow globe chic. I also feel like I'm trapped in some insane-bizarro-circus. The colors are so rich, the fabrics so bright, the cut so floaty. These are all trapeze artist or snow globe figurine and I want to be that girl so badly. I really love it all. Inventive and artistic and wearable. Loooooove: 2,4,6,7,9,10,15,17,20,21,26,32.
Jens Laugesen - Slightly SciFi but not as covetable. He's more Calvin Klein bland and Helmut Lang layered. Not enough of an identity.
John Rocha - Very dramatic post-apocalypse. I like the idea of scavenging together disparate materials and fashioning them together frankenstein-style, esp if they turn out as well as 11,18, 23. His silhouette is so tall and thin and vaguely prim. I really crave 3 and 40.
Katarzyna Szczotarska - WTF with the eyeshadow? Blah and clumsy and apparently ill-fitting.
Paul Smith - The ribbon detail on the suit in photo 18. The hardness and softness of photos 45, 48, 51 (my favorite). But this collection isnt Paul Smithy enough for me.
PPQ - Perhaps it's only the makeup, but I feel this is how Eastern European business girls must dress. A little cheesy (leggings!) peg bundy and slightly ill-fitting.
Temperley - I love the black and pink and scalloped hems. All romantic sophistication without a smidgen of bland and wearably far from over-the-top.
Ben de Lisi - The dresses are floaty, dreamy. Everything else is Wet Seal cheese. And Photo 50 is in the running for worst outfit in history.
Bora Aksu - So very Dr Who sidekick. He layers while maintaining a slim silhouette. Photo 5 is the perfect Autumn dress...let's go lay out in the park. Can you go wrong with 70s-era SciFi? One problem, though, he somehow made the models appear to have gigantic thighs and calves. I hope it's just the lighting/angle.
Boudicca - No.
ChenPascual - Eh.
Clements Ribeiro - Fuuuuun prints. I love this evil chevron sweater in photo 13. The modern flapper styles, leopard print, and wacky stripes make these clothes all appear vintage. How weird that wacky can seem timeless.
Emma Cook - I like the opposing fits of her dresses (5, 7, 21). The applique concept seems a little un-fresh, as it's so linked with Nicholas Ghesquire.
Fashion East-Alistair Carr - 4,13,14 are all pretty cool, but maybe I actually like the socks best? Not bad at all though. If he had more funding for more looks and perhaps better fabrics, this would be really great.
Fashion East-Richard Nicholl - Baggy lumberjack, mulleted pickup driver, I dont want to look like any of this.
FrostFrench - A more substantial collection for them, yes, but also less fun and girlish. I always like their knits and everything here is very rough. Definitely original, just not my aesthetic perhaps.
Gharani Strok - Too Gucci/Tom Ford YSL. Nothing bad, just doesnt seem so orig.
Gibo - Weird hats. Hardly my favorite. Not too memorable, unless you're crazy about raincoats.
Giles Deacon - Every outfit seems so wrong, but I want it all. The chaos of styles works for a girl who loves dressup and doesnt mind a bit of costume. The big prints of 1, 19, 23 are dramatic but not overpowering. And his surprisingly sexy caftans are quite thought-provoking. I think it's all in the fabric...
House of Jazz - Drapey. Blah.
Jenny Packham - Snow globe chic. I also feel like I'm trapped in some insane-bizarro-circus. The colors are so rich, the fabrics so bright, the cut so floaty. These are all trapeze artist or snow globe figurine and I want to be that girl so badly. I really love it all. Inventive and artistic and wearable. Loooooove: 2,4,6,7,9,10,15,17,20,21,26,32.
Jens Laugesen - Slightly SciFi but not as covetable. He's more Calvin Klein bland and Helmut Lang layered. Not enough of an identity.
John Rocha - Very dramatic post-apocalypse. I like the idea of scavenging together disparate materials and fashioning them together frankenstein-style, esp if they turn out as well as 11,18, 23. His silhouette is so tall and thin and vaguely prim. I really crave 3 and 40.
Katarzyna Szczotarska - WTF with the eyeshadow? Blah and clumsy and apparently ill-fitting.
Paul Smith - The ribbon detail on the suit in photo 18. The hardness and softness of photos 45, 48, 51 (my favorite). But this collection isnt Paul Smithy enough for me.
PPQ - Perhaps it's only the makeup, but I feel this is how Eastern European business girls must dress. A little cheesy (leggings!) peg bundy and slightly ill-fitting.
Temperley - I love the black and pink and scalloped hems. All romantic sophistication without a smidgen of bland and wearably far from over-the-top.
New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 5)
Sorry for the delay!
Behnaz Sarafpour - Ooooh. Her show makes me love fashion and it's so nice to see a youthfully hip female designer making quality contributions. It's a very Prada-esque collection, but much more Audrey Hepburn than nerdy, eccentric Italian kitten. Both designers definitely share an intelligent approach to design - there's nothing frivolous and nothing that you wouldnt dream of owning. Especially if you like to dream in 40s films. Photos 3, 8, 17, and 27 are at the top of my list. Chocolate satin is the perfect Fall It item. She's a former Asst Designer to Isaac Mizrahi and, thankfully, you can always feel his influence in her designs.
Calvin Klein - Mmm. More chocolate satin...I know this doesnt make sense and perhaps it's just the angularity of the models, but the draping here seems very harsh and very disco manly. Some of the looks are ridiculously and awkwardly mannish (photo 15), but a few of the evening looks are familiar Calvin Klein (39).
Donna Karan - A very gothic Donna. I actually adore 18, 20 - the patterns and style seem so un-Donna and so very Westwood. She seems to have picked up quite a lot of the inspiration of her fellow designers. And how fabulous and decidedly un-frumpy and un-Barbra does she look?!
Jeffrey Chow - Burnished gold pants (7) - sooooo Autumn. I like the scarves and fragility of his designs. Usually such a characteristic annoys me, as your friend who cant stand up for herself and always appears meek annoys you, but here they are elegant and breezy.
Ralph Lauren - I think photo 2 maybe the most horrid outfit I have ever seen in my life. The color is atrocious, the material looks cheap, and how fucking cheesy is that belt?! And off-the-shoulder?! This is 80s-working woman absolute nightmare crap. Ick.
Ralph Rucci Chado - Middle aged, 80s blah. Perhaps he's so unflashy, I miss his talent. I dont know. I try, but I'm just. too. bored.
United Bamboo - If I had to wear suits to work, I'd only choose 2 and 12. Wasnt so down with anything else.
Zac Posen - Crazy texture mixing. I'm not sure about a lot of it, but I love rusching (?). The shocking color mixing is a little mind-blowing, as well. I cant tell if I abs love this or abs hate it. That's a good reaction, I think. The blues are positively dreamy.
Behnaz Sarafpour - Ooooh. Her show makes me love fashion and it's so nice to see a youthfully hip female designer making quality contributions. It's a very Prada-esque collection, but much more Audrey Hepburn than nerdy, eccentric Italian kitten. Both designers definitely share an intelligent approach to design - there's nothing frivolous and nothing that you wouldnt dream of owning. Especially if you like to dream in 40s films. Photos 3, 8, 17, and 27 are at the top of my list. Chocolate satin is the perfect Fall It item. She's a former Asst Designer to Isaac Mizrahi and, thankfully, you can always feel his influence in her designs.
Calvin Klein - Mmm. More chocolate satin...I know this doesnt make sense and perhaps it's just the angularity of the models, but the draping here seems very harsh and very disco manly. Some of the looks are ridiculously and awkwardly mannish (photo 15), but a few of the evening looks are familiar Calvin Klein (39).
Donna Karan - A very gothic Donna. I actually adore 18, 20 - the patterns and style seem so un-Donna and so very Westwood. She seems to have picked up quite a lot of the inspiration of her fellow designers. And how fabulous and decidedly un-frumpy and un-Barbra does she look?!
Jeffrey Chow - Burnished gold pants (7) - sooooo Autumn. I like the scarves and fragility of his designs. Usually such a characteristic annoys me, as your friend who cant stand up for herself and always appears meek annoys you, but here they are elegant and breezy.
Ralph Lauren - I think photo 2 maybe the most horrid outfit I have ever seen in my life. The color is atrocious, the material looks cheap, and how fucking cheesy is that belt?! And off-the-shoulder?! This is 80s-working woman absolute nightmare crap. Ick.
Ralph Rucci Chado - Middle aged, 80s blah. Perhaps he's so unflashy, I miss his talent. I dont know. I try, but I'm just. too. bored.
United Bamboo - If I had to wear suits to work, I'd only choose 2 and 12. Wasnt so down with anything else.
Zac Posen - Crazy texture mixing. I'm not sure about a lot of it, but I love rusching (?). The shocking color mixing is a little mind-blowing, as well. I cant tell if I abs love this or abs hate it. That's a good reaction, I think. The blues are positively dreamy.
Thursday, February 12, 2004
New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 4)
Anna Sui - How can you criticize someone whose aesthetic is all about fun. This collection is the eccentric Park Avenue, childless aunt who's been widowed for 22 years and keeps her money in old Bergdorf's hatboxes in her antique wardrobe. It's a look I like to keep in my back pocket for the day I find an old, tattered Chanel suit in a thrift shop. I'm dying for the bag in photo 12.
Baby Phat - Well, you already know how I feel about people who "design" collections. This is probably the first time Kimora Lee Simmons has seen these clothes...Anyway. The honey browns are nice, the boots in photo 20 are a dream. Theyre sexy mall pieces.
J. Mendel - Furs on top of Narciso Rodriguez knock-offs.
John Varvatos - Oooh, I'd forgotten how sharp a minidress looks under a longer, tailored coat. Nice. Unfortunately, that's about all I can say. The rest is nice, but just seems like late 90s Calvin Klein retreads (44, and all of the long satin-y slip dresses).
Matthew Williamson - Hmm. He seems like such a nice person. I really like 14 and 20, but I feel like he makes better individual pieces than a whole look. And a lot of this would work much better as a Spring show (22- a perfect dress for April). The final round of dresses (partic 26 and 31-looooooove) are soooo light and lovely and actually seem like solidly constructed pieces, but dont they too seem a little Spring?
Michael Kors - The thing I love best about him is that he creates a lifestyle fantasy. This season appears to be jet-setting. The models almost seem like anime in a secret agent manga. I'm totally digging all but the fur shoulder pads (wtf?). The shade of purple is so nice with the browns. His sweaters are the epitome of luxe...cant you just feel how soft that cashmere is? I will go to sleep tonight with fantasies of wearing photo 58.
Proenza Schouler - Speaking of secret agents, these are definitely Russian. The leather trench in photo 7 will never be out of style. Interesting and well-fitted, but not enough variety. How many times did we see that last dress?
Vera Wang - From what I can make out in this horrid lighting, her 'regular' clothes are ok. Just fine. Ok. But her real talents are in crafting the classiest, cleanest, most modern red-carpet dresses. I dont think this collection showcased her talents.
Baby Phat - Well, you already know how I feel about people who "design" collections. This is probably the first time Kimora Lee Simmons has seen these clothes...Anyway. The honey browns are nice, the boots in photo 20 are a dream. Theyre sexy mall pieces.
J. Mendel - Furs on top of Narciso Rodriguez knock-offs.
John Varvatos - Oooh, I'd forgotten how sharp a minidress looks under a longer, tailored coat. Nice. Unfortunately, that's about all I can say. The rest is nice, but just seems like late 90s Calvin Klein retreads (44, and all of the long satin-y slip dresses).
Matthew Williamson - Hmm. He seems like such a nice person. I really like 14 and 20, but I feel like he makes better individual pieces than a whole look. And a lot of this would work much better as a Spring show (22- a perfect dress for April). The final round of dresses (partic 26 and 31-looooooove) are soooo light and lovely and actually seem like solidly constructed pieces, but dont they too seem a little Spring?
Michael Kors - The thing I love best about him is that he creates a lifestyle fantasy. This season appears to be jet-setting. The models almost seem like anime in a secret agent manga. I'm totally digging all but the fur shoulder pads (wtf?). The shade of purple is so nice with the browns. His sweaters are the epitome of luxe...cant you just feel how soft that cashmere is? I will go to sleep tonight with fantasies of wearing photo 58.
Proenza Schouler - Speaking of secret agents, these are definitely Russian. The leather trench in photo 7 will never be out of style. Interesting and well-fitted, but not enough variety. How many times did we see that last dress?
Vera Wang - From what I can make out in this horrid lighting, her 'regular' clothes are ok. Just fine. Ok. But her real talents are in crafting the classiest, cleanest, most modern red-carpet dresses. I dont think this collection showcased her talents.
Tuesday, February 10, 2004
New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 2)
Badgley Mischka - Oooooh. Now I am desperate for cocktail party invitations. I definitely need some charcoal grey in my closet and midnight blue silky camisoles (3,4,5,14,21,25,37). Sexy, sheer, mature, lady-like. Isnt it wacky that they're also designing Carmen Electra's wedding dress?
BCBG - I usu like this line for its flirty, feminine grown-up girl looks, but this show is a little frumpy, ugly, and the wrong parts of the 70s/80s. I didnt really enjoy the color scheme, save a few pieces (34,44,45,48 - I am crying for those shoes!). Some were a little too reminiscent of 7th grade home ec projects.
Carolina Herrera - Wow. I usu love her, but perhaps I always like her Spring collections more. She seems to have really embraced fur her, which I'm not crazy about - not for political/ethical/what-have-you but because it seems frumpy/roll-of-carpet-y (19). 32 is better, but something still seems off. I dont really like this silhouette, perhaps - the higher waist and fishtail hem. 47 is a nice dress, but kind of seems out of place with the rest of the collection. The whole thing just seemed a little too prim and bland for me.
DKNY - I love to critcize Donna Karan but the last few seasons, I've been forced to eat my words. Photo 9 shows the most vivid, 3-D in a photo blouse. I'm dying to see it up-close (24 - same color and similar effect). Photo 15 completely recreates the idea of a one-shouldered sweater as a sophisticated and not-at-all-cheesy piece of clothing. Her color scheme is the best I've seen...I'm actually longing for Fall (40,43,48). The final group of dresses are just so rich, confident, simple. Sigh.
Jill Stuart - Perfect silhoutte. Nice prints. To die for lace-up boots. Even the pieces in all black translate as modern, sexy, exactly-what-I-want (1,4,10). There's a little bit of sci-fi ship's navigator (12, 17), intergalactic princess (15), and some things that are just plain awful (14,20,24), but I think the majority are covetable (22).
Marc Jacobs - Finally! An MJ show that I can swoon for again! The opening photo is exactly how I want to look this Fall at all times. Photo 2! Now that's the way to wear a fur...very Margot Tennenbaum and I dig the too-short sleeves. I secretly (well, ok, if you see me every day it's not such a secret) love ill-fitting clothes. Sleeves and pant legs a little too long or short...a ridiculously over-sized dress shirt under a much-too-small shirt. That's his talent, I think. He can pick the trends but also he knows just how a girl (a girl that's not too fashion-y and doesnt like fussy) likes to wear stuff. I would take any and every, but especially 9, 17, 40, 41 (tho the shirt would look horrid on me), and the skirt in 42 (I'm never a fan of long, light-weight, not-fitted coats).
Oscar de la Renta - As per forever, pretty-girl skirts and sweaters though the alarmingly higher number of grande dame pieces freaks me out. I dream of making an entrance in the boots in photo 9...the coat could be lovely to hide the barest of minis. 38 and 45 are my first choice formal-wear so far. The pouffiness of 45 is borderline silly, but the white blouse tucked underneath makes it a little punk, no?
As Four - I cant really make out much of the collection and I dont really get showing it on children...are they making a statement about models? I've never been able to get behind their signature flower-petal design. Bjork loves them, so what do I know?
These collections have been, on-the-whole, a bit somber for my tastes. Rich colors are nice, but quirkier/more obnoxious pieces could break up the whole Ice Princess look.
PS- I'm feeling decidedly brazilian today. Much less painful and traumatic than I'd imagined, but I'm fairly certain I can now handle the pains of childbirth. :-)
BCBG - I usu like this line for its flirty, feminine grown-up girl looks, but this show is a little frumpy, ugly, and the wrong parts of the 70s/80s. I didnt really enjoy the color scheme, save a few pieces (34,44,45,48 - I am crying for those shoes!). Some were a little too reminiscent of 7th grade home ec projects.
Carolina Herrera - Wow. I usu love her, but perhaps I always like her Spring collections more. She seems to have really embraced fur her, which I'm not crazy about - not for political/ethical/what-have-you but because it seems frumpy/roll-of-carpet-y (19). 32 is better, but something still seems off. I dont really like this silhouette, perhaps - the higher waist and fishtail hem. 47 is a nice dress, but kind of seems out of place with the rest of the collection. The whole thing just seemed a little too prim and bland for me.
DKNY - I love to critcize Donna Karan but the last few seasons, I've been forced to eat my words. Photo 9 shows the most vivid, 3-D in a photo blouse. I'm dying to see it up-close (24 - same color and similar effect). Photo 15 completely recreates the idea of a one-shouldered sweater as a sophisticated and not-at-all-cheesy piece of clothing. Her color scheme is the best I've seen...I'm actually longing for Fall (40,43,48). The final group of dresses are just so rich, confident, simple. Sigh.
Jill Stuart - Perfect silhoutte. Nice prints. To die for lace-up boots. Even the pieces in all black translate as modern, sexy, exactly-what-I-want (1,4,10). There's a little bit of sci-fi ship's navigator (12, 17), intergalactic princess (15), and some things that are just plain awful (14,20,24), but I think the majority are covetable (22).
Marc Jacobs - Finally! An MJ show that I can swoon for again! The opening photo is exactly how I want to look this Fall at all times. Photo 2! Now that's the way to wear a fur...very Margot Tennenbaum and I dig the too-short sleeves. I secretly (well, ok, if you see me every day it's not such a secret) love ill-fitting clothes. Sleeves and pant legs a little too long or short...a ridiculously over-sized dress shirt under a much-too-small shirt. That's his talent, I think. He can pick the trends but also he knows just how a girl (a girl that's not too fashion-y and doesnt like fussy) likes to wear stuff. I would take any and every, but especially 9, 17, 40, 41 (tho the shirt would look horrid on me), and the skirt in 42 (I'm never a fan of long, light-weight, not-fitted coats).
Oscar de la Renta - As per forever, pretty-girl skirts and sweaters though the alarmingly higher number of grande dame pieces freaks me out. I dream of making an entrance in the boots in photo 9...the coat could be lovely to hide the barest of minis. 38 and 45 are my first choice formal-wear so far. The pouffiness of 45 is borderline silly, but the white blouse tucked underneath makes it a little punk, no?
As Four - I cant really make out much of the collection and I dont really get showing it on children...are they making a statement about models? I've never been able to get behind their signature flower-petal design. Bjork loves them, so what do I know?
These collections have been, on-the-whole, a bit somber for my tastes. Rich colors are nice, but quirkier/more obnoxious pieces could break up the whole Ice Princess look.
PS- I'm feeling decidedly brazilian today. Much less painful and traumatic than I'd imagined, but I'm fairly certain I can now handle the pains of childbirth. :-)
Monday, February 09, 2004
New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 1)
Derek Lam - Prada mixed with a little anachronism. That's not a compliment. In theory, each of the pieces work in a quirky/conventional/50s Italian way similar to Prada. In practice, something is definitely off - the fit, the combinations, the color scheme. Maybe he's just referencing or mixing with an era I'm not keen on, but it just doesnt work for me. I do love the orange trousers in photo 18, but I am a sucker for a well-cut pant.
DVF - Oh! The first photo is a dream. Is it a coat or a dress? Is that a cumberbund? I really dont care, I want it regardless. Here is the perfect mix of downtown career girl. Pieces to covet, foundation pieces to stockpile...never toooo fashion-y. Almost every piece is entirely wearable. She has a nice eye for prints. I like the fiery graffiti in photo 28.
IOC - Blah blah blah. Sucks. Blah blah blah. The boots arent bad though.
Kenneth Cole - I have no criticism here. Everything is *nice*, but everything also seemed a little un-exciting. Not tired and not done, just ok. If youre a very nice, good girl who doesnt like to think too hard about fashion or making a statement, this is the most ideal collection for you.
Luca Luca - It's diff to review shows with lots of dark colored clothes and dim lighting, as no one is yet paying me to actually report from said shows. So barring the 60% of clothes that I couldnt see, I again have no complaints here. There is definitely quality in design, care in fabric selection (though I'm a little tired of the satin, yet I think it probably shows very well). I'm sure these are very good foundation pieces, just nothing that makes me coo.
Perry Ellis - Damn this terrible lighting! Damn the first 25 photos of men's (seriously, who gives a shit?!)! I'm so frustrated, because the clothes I can make out are so perfectly 50s sorority chic but I cant fully see them. Argh. The palm springs rebel in photo 39, the blue gloves in 44, the big baggy suit in 36, and the perfectly demure princess in 31 are all on my wish list, but the coats (25,30,48) are truly the winning pieces.
Tuleh - I'm not usually a fan, as this is the gear for a blandly blonde UES girl, but I want photo 3 in my wardrobe now. It's very spring, dont you think? And photo 10 is wonderfully Yohji. I wish I could make out the fabric - is it a heavy tweed or light silk-rayon? The coat in photo 12 is the right mix of crazy-old-lady and avant garde, with maybe a touch of Jackie O thrown in the print. I absolutely adore the hair and makeup. The hair is so soft and natural, but not the slightest bit bed-heady. I must learn.
DVF - Oh! The first photo is a dream. Is it a coat or a dress? Is that a cumberbund? I really dont care, I want it regardless. Here is the perfect mix of downtown career girl. Pieces to covet, foundation pieces to stockpile...never toooo fashion-y. Almost every piece is entirely wearable. She has a nice eye for prints. I like the fiery graffiti in photo 28.
IOC - Blah blah blah. Sucks. Blah blah blah. The boots arent bad though.
Kenneth Cole - I have no criticism here. Everything is *nice*, but everything also seemed a little un-exciting. Not tired and not done, just ok. If youre a very nice, good girl who doesnt like to think too hard about fashion or making a statement, this is the most ideal collection for you.
Luca Luca - It's diff to review shows with lots of dark colored clothes and dim lighting, as no one is yet paying me to actually report from said shows. So barring the 60% of clothes that I couldnt see, I again have no complaints here. There is definitely quality in design, care in fabric selection (though I'm a little tired of the satin, yet I think it probably shows very well). I'm sure these are very good foundation pieces, just nothing that makes me coo.
Perry Ellis - Damn this terrible lighting! Damn the first 25 photos of men's (seriously, who gives a shit?!)! I'm so frustrated, because the clothes I can make out are so perfectly 50s sorority chic but I cant fully see them. Argh. The palm springs rebel in photo 39, the blue gloves in 44, the big baggy suit in 36, and the perfectly demure princess in 31 are all on my wish list, but the coats (25,30,48) are truly the winning pieces.
Tuleh - I'm not usually a fan, as this is the gear for a blandly blonde UES girl, but I want photo 3 in my wardrobe now. It's very spring, dont you think? And photo 10 is wonderfully Yohji. I wish I could make out the fabric - is it a heavy tweed or light silk-rayon? The coat in photo 12 is the right mix of crazy-old-lady and avant garde, with maybe a touch of Jackie O thrown in the print. I absolutely adore the hair and makeup. The hair is so soft and natural, but not the slightest bit bed-heady. I must learn.
Wednesday, January 21, 2004
Paris Couture, Naturellement
What perfect timing the Paris shows have this year. Just last night, I was lying on Maria's couch dreaming of couture confections and what do I wake to? Paris Couture! I had almost forgotten!
Perhaps I'm a sucker for showmanship, but I want to believe that Galliano (for Christian Dior) is the future of and the heart of couture. His inspirations and themes are at times hilarious and always jaw dropping. He has a signature style without ever becoming tired, he has an innate sense of what can and will be wearable, and never once do you care about the outside world. He's pure fantasy, but we trust that he knows how to make it work in real life. The concept for this collection is Egypt (which you know I'm already excited for). This concept could potentially be pure cheese and theatrics, but in Galliano's hands it is awesome. Photos 3, 4, 6, 16, 26...there are too many. I love the second-skin gold alligator dresses. I cant emphasize how potentially awful each of these pieces could be, but they are perfection. He never ceases to amaze me and he makes fashion seem like the most fun place on earth. You can see splashes of the past few collections, as he doesnt abandon his previous work. Each showing is a mark in his evolution as a designer. And the makeup!!
Christian Lacroix is a close second. The colors are eye-popping (I will give my right arm for some aqua tights and red shoes). Photos 2, 26, 36. The fitted waist and floaty hems are a dream. Photo 36 is really just too much for words.
One can always count on Valentino for the prettiest dresses. Lace and florals and just femininity. No theatrics, just perfectly classic and pretty and fresh. Photos 1, 15, 20, 21...sigh.
Givenchy is another giver of pretty girl dresses. I'm very much obsessed with lace right now and these dresses are for a proper pretty girl. Such as me. That was a joke.
Occasionally, Donatella Versace or whoever it is that designs the collection manages to put out a very gorgeous piece, but on the whole I think she's what's wrong with fashion and the world. Her show is shocking in its all-consuming narcissism. The models are made to look exactly like her. Her designs are pretty much repeated each season and are so ubiquitous on the red carpet that by the time her designs hit the magazines (which is *still* months before the stores!), one is already sick to death of them and trying to remember if one hadnt seen the exact dress two season prior. Her theme is always bling. She is the Puffy/Britney of Couture. That is not a good thing.
The other shows (Chanel, Ungaro, Gaultier) all seemed to have a recurring Flapper-80s theme that I didnt really care for. Chanel in particular seemed very dated and no-fun.
Yohji Yamamoto has been showing his Ready-to-Wear collection during Paris Couture for the last few years. I rarely understand his shows, as most of the pieces are in black and do not photograph well, but when I have the opportunity to see the actual pieces that are sold in stores I am always left craving. Right now, I would cut you for the chance to own a specific herringbone suit jacket with overly puffy 3/4 length sleeves from the Fall collection.
Perhaps I'm a sucker for showmanship, but I want to believe that Galliano (for Christian Dior) is the future of and the heart of couture. His inspirations and themes are at times hilarious and always jaw dropping. He has a signature style without ever becoming tired, he has an innate sense of what can and will be wearable, and never once do you care about the outside world. He's pure fantasy, but we trust that he knows how to make it work in real life. The concept for this collection is Egypt (which you know I'm already excited for). This concept could potentially be pure cheese and theatrics, but in Galliano's hands it is awesome. Photos 3, 4, 6, 16, 26...there are too many. I love the second-skin gold alligator dresses. I cant emphasize how potentially awful each of these pieces could be, but they are perfection. He never ceases to amaze me and he makes fashion seem like the most fun place on earth. You can see splashes of the past few collections, as he doesnt abandon his previous work. Each showing is a mark in his evolution as a designer. And the makeup!!
Christian Lacroix is a close second. The colors are eye-popping (I will give my right arm for some aqua tights and red shoes). Photos 2, 26, 36. The fitted waist and floaty hems are a dream. Photo 36 is really just too much for words.
One can always count on Valentino for the prettiest dresses. Lace and florals and just femininity. No theatrics, just perfectly classic and pretty and fresh. Photos 1, 15, 20, 21...sigh.
Givenchy is another giver of pretty girl dresses. I'm very much obsessed with lace right now and these dresses are for a proper pretty girl. Such as me. That was a joke.
Occasionally, Donatella Versace or whoever it is that designs the collection manages to put out a very gorgeous piece, but on the whole I think she's what's wrong with fashion and the world. Her show is shocking in its all-consuming narcissism. The models are made to look exactly like her. Her designs are pretty much repeated each season and are so ubiquitous on the red carpet that by the time her designs hit the magazines (which is *still* months before the stores!), one is already sick to death of them and trying to remember if one hadnt seen the exact dress two season prior. Her theme is always bling. She is the Puffy/Britney of Couture. That is not a good thing.
The other shows (Chanel, Ungaro, Gaultier) all seemed to have a recurring Flapper-80s theme that I didnt really care for. Chanel in particular seemed very dated and no-fun.
Yohji Yamamoto has been showing his Ready-to-Wear collection during Paris Couture for the last few years. I rarely understand his shows, as most of the pieces are in black and do not photograph well, but when I have the opportunity to see the actual pieces that are sold in stores I am always left craving. Right now, I would cut you for the chance to own a specific herringbone suit jacket with overly puffy 3/4 length sleeves from the Fall collection.
Thursday, October 16, 2003
Paris Finally
Andrew Gn - I'm probably going to contradict myself later...but I really really love this guy. He can pull the best from previous and (seemingly) this season and tweak it just right to make it completely wearable. Photo 19 is last year's Chanel but not so precious. The whole beginning is Moschino but not so silly. Photo 25 is what Barbie would wear if she had a non-Vegas stylist. And I totally dig the flowers at the end. Mmmm.
[ok, Marc and I are watching the Wade Robson finale and can I say that JC Chasez is the suckiest singer/performer/person I have ever witnessed on tv? Pure shit. He even looks cheesy ugly gross.]
Celine - Michael Kors is the abs master of rich bitchiness. I love his color scheme and he stays true to his aesthetic. He *always* does this, but is there anything more decadent than cashmere with a bikini (photo 21)??
Chanel - Hohum. I do not believe I have ever felt so blah about a Chanel collection. Nothing is wrong, but nothing is right. No fantasy and considering the perfection of the previous few collections...I'm very surprised. The trench in photo 36 is just shy of perfect though.
Chloe - I can get behind the high-waisted pants but I cannot get down with the Mom pants in photo 4. Ick ick ick. I did not enjoy this collection.
Christian Dior - I cannot get enough of his signature silhouettes. I fully respect how he really stands behind his designs...he's not just throwing ideas at us, he's creating a legacy. I totally love the Gaultier-esque tattoo shirts too.
Ungaro - The abs final word in elegant sexy. I cant criticize this collection and I adore that shade of pink.
Givenchy - I guess there's nothing wrong with this unless you dont particularly feel like being Charlotte from Sex and the City every fucking day.
Helmut Lang - I get a strong tennis vibe. This is not necess a bad thing. I was just sayin'.
JPG - Another designer who stays true to his aesthetic...bondage/fencing/aeon flux.
Lanvin - Gorgeous draping...I love the bustle in 45 (check out the back in photo 46).
Louis Vuitton - The continuing saga of the disappointing Marc Jacobs. The color scheme is nice but it's totally frenetic. Trying a little too hard, a la Carrie Bradshaw. Ugh.
Martin Grant - These are classically simple, nicely executed, but a little not very original. Why do I say the same thing about Gn but in a positive way? I dont know...I guess this isnt very scientific.
Nina Ricci - Faerie-wear...lovely...angelic. I'm glad Lars Nilsson still has a job.
Stella McCartney - Faerie-wear too, but different. Gorgeously dreamy. Satisfies my fantasy while staying perfectly wearable. I would wear this every single day.
Undercover - This show will give me nightmares for sure [as will this Transsexual DiGiorno commercial].
Valentino - Sexy sophisticate, but what the fuck is up with that lace. First half and the end are a thousand times better than the middle. I guess that's why most designers show 30-40 looks and not 81!
Viktor and Rolf - Love the bows. Love the red shoes. Totally could wear this everyday. Though I hate their coats. I wanna go to a ball! (47 and 49)
YSL - Disappointed. Seemed frumpy and uncool and a little cheap on the models!! That's not a promising observation, ya know.
So...I guess my thoughts on Spring - Summer 2004? Mainly shocked and disappointed. The infallible seemed to have failed and a few that I had written off as talentless, completely surprised me. There are always good things and always a few things you didnt know you were craving...but very few gasps from this side of the shows.
[ok, Marc and I are watching the Wade Robson finale and can I say that JC Chasez is the suckiest singer/performer/person I have ever witnessed on tv? Pure shit. He even looks cheesy ugly gross.]
Celine - Michael Kors is the abs master of rich bitchiness. I love his color scheme and he stays true to his aesthetic. He *always* does this, but is there anything more decadent than cashmere with a bikini (photo 21)??
Chanel - Hohum. I do not believe I have ever felt so blah about a Chanel collection. Nothing is wrong, but nothing is right. No fantasy and considering the perfection of the previous few collections...I'm very surprised. The trench in photo 36 is just shy of perfect though.
Chloe - I can get behind the high-waisted pants but I cannot get down with the Mom pants in photo 4. Ick ick ick. I did not enjoy this collection.
Christian Dior - I cannot get enough of his signature silhouettes. I fully respect how he really stands behind his designs...he's not just throwing ideas at us, he's creating a legacy. I totally love the Gaultier-esque tattoo shirts too.
Ungaro - The abs final word in elegant sexy. I cant criticize this collection and I adore that shade of pink.
Givenchy - I guess there's nothing wrong with this unless you dont particularly feel like being Charlotte from Sex and the City every fucking day.
Helmut Lang - I get a strong tennis vibe. This is not necess a bad thing. I was just sayin'.
JPG - Another designer who stays true to his aesthetic...bondage/fencing/aeon flux.
Lanvin - Gorgeous draping...I love the bustle in 45 (check out the back in photo 46).
Louis Vuitton - The continuing saga of the disappointing Marc Jacobs. The color scheme is nice but it's totally frenetic. Trying a little too hard, a la Carrie Bradshaw. Ugh.
Martin Grant - These are classically simple, nicely executed, but a little not very original. Why do I say the same thing about Gn but in a positive way? I dont know...I guess this isnt very scientific.
Nina Ricci - Faerie-wear...lovely...angelic. I'm glad Lars Nilsson still has a job.
Stella McCartney - Faerie-wear too, but different. Gorgeously dreamy. Satisfies my fantasy while staying perfectly wearable. I would wear this every single day.
Undercover - This show will give me nightmares for sure [as will this Transsexual DiGiorno commercial].
Valentino - Sexy sophisticate, but what the fuck is up with that lace. First half and the end are a thousand times better than the middle. I guess that's why most designers show 30-40 looks and not 81!
Viktor and Rolf - Love the bows. Love the red shoes. Totally could wear this everyday. Though I hate their coats. I wanna go to a ball! (47 and 49)
YSL - Disappointed. Seemed frumpy and uncool and a little cheap on the models!! That's not a promising observation, ya know.
So...I guess my thoughts on Spring - Summer 2004? Mainly shocked and disappointed. The infallible seemed to have failed and a few that I had written off as talentless, completely surprised me. There are always good things and always a few things you didnt know you were craving...but very few gasps from this side of the shows.
Sunday, October 05, 2003
Ciao Bella
Some notes on Milan:
When I grow up, I definitely will dress in Alberta Ferretti. She has the 30ish, stylish, still-slightly-messy girl down just perfect. I would definitely wear any of her clothing today, but I'm on a tight schedule of getting as many too-tight, too-short, too-young outfits in before I really start looking my age. Hopefully, by then, 'looking my age' will involve me starting to resemble 35-year-old, voluptuous Italian women with long black hair and oversized lips. Photos 40 and 44 are pure dreaminess.
How is it Italian designers can make even the blandest idea or trend seem like the most cutting-edge yet somehow timeless cool girl gear? See all of Anna Molinari. Those belts! Moschino! Those shoes! Those tights! Those everything!! Seriously, I love each and every photo. You must view the entire thing. Trust me. DSquared2 appears to be the general exception, except in photo 14. I would maybe kill you for those hot pink sandals. Oooh wait...photo 16! I take it back...the show starts off lame, but now...I wanna be some greaser's hot Italian vixen! Oh wait, it ends kinda lame too.
Why does Burberry, the British label that markets itself as the quintessential British brand, show in Milan? This turns me off, even if they started the show with dear Kate. The ho-hum, art-school offerings turn me off even more though.
The D&G show appears a little chaotic, or a lot chaotic, and some bits seemed to be trying too hard to be shocking or tarty, but I really feel inspired by the whole thing. These arent clothes to aspire to purchase, but looks to aspire to assemble from your closet's offerings. It's really very hard for me not to worship the first 24 photos. Really.
I despise when designers show men's fashion on the runway. Despise. Armani? 103 photos? No thanks.
As obvious as it sounds, I really respect Miuccia Prada. She somehow, season after season, creates clothes that no one would ever want but they cant live without. And always with a 50s kiss, which inspires instant affection from me. I usually enjoy her lower-line MiuMiu more, but this time it's all about Prada. Whereas MiuMiu was a little dull, Prada is all 50s picnic-in-the-park or a-stiff-drink-after-getting-fired-from-my-job-as-a-typist fantasy. There are even a few yes-I'll-accompany-you-to-a-cocktail-party-so-your-boss-believes-you-are-married-or-not-gay dresses to swoon over.
I am far too big a snob to even comment on Roberto Cavalli. Pish-posh designer ha.
Versace has surprised me yet again...whatever lifestyle I need to adopt to wear/be photo 10, I'm in. I'm totally digging Versus even.
I think I'm going to plot out a pleated skirt with random fabric panels on the side.
When I grow up, I definitely will dress in Alberta Ferretti. She has the 30ish, stylish, still-slightly-messy girl down just perfect. I would definitely wear any of her clothing today, but I'm on a tight schedule of getting as many too-tight, too-short, too-young outfits in before I really start looking my age. Hopefully, by then, 'looking my age' will involve me starting to resemble 35-year-old, voluptuous Italian women with long black hair and oversized lips. Photos 40 and 44 are pure dreaminess.
How is it Italian designers can make even the blandest idea or trend seem like the most cutting-edge yet somehow timeless cool girl gear? See all of Anna Molinari. Those belts! Moschino! Those shoes! Those tights! Those everything!! Seriously, I love each and every photo. You must view the entire thing. Trust me. DSquared2 appears to be the general exception, except in photo 14. I would maybe kill you for those hot pink sandals. Oooh wait...photo 16! I take it back...the show starts off lame, but now...I wanna be some greaser's hot Italian vixen! Oh wait, it ends kinda lame too.
Why does Burberry, the British label that markets itself as the quintessential British brand, show in Milan? This turns me off, even if they started the show with dear Kate. The ho-hum, art-school offerings turn me off even more though.
The D&G show appears a little chaotic, or a lot chaotic, and some bits seemed to be trying too hard to be shocking or tarty, but I really feel inspired by the whole thing. These arent clothes to aspire to purchase, but looks to aspire to assemble from your closet's offerings. It's really very hard for me not to worship the first 24 photos. Really.
I despise when designers show men's fashion on the runway. Despise. Armani? 103 photos? No thanks.
As obvious as it sounds, I really respect Miuccia Prada. She somehow, season after season, creates clothes that no one would ever want but they cant live without. And always with a 50s kiss, which inspires instant affection from me. I usually enjoy her lower-line MiuMiu more, but this time it's all about Prada. Whereas MiuMiu was a little dull, Prada is all 50s picnic-in-the-park or a-stiff-drink-after-getting-fired-from-my-job-as-a-typist fantasy. There are even a few yes-I'll-accompany-you-to-a-cocktail-party-so-your-boss-believes-you-are-married-or-not-gay dresses to swoon over.
I am far too big a snob to even comment on Roberto Cavalli. Pish-posh designer ha.
Versace has surprised me yet again...whatever lifestyle I need to adopt to wear/be photo 10, I'm in. I'm totally digging Versus even.
I think I'm going to plot out a pleated skirt with random fabric panels on the side.
Wednesday, September 24, 2003
London Calling
Maybe it's cuz I'm in a bad mood, but I am terribly bored by London Fashion Week for the most part.
betty jackson (photo 4) - perfect summer dress, 41...a little british girl obsessed with fairies in 40s english countryside
boudicca (photo 4) - love the stiff modernism
eley kishimoto- while they're clothes that i would prob be drawn to in a store, i'm not so excited by them on the runway...gimme a little fantasy, please
elspeth gibson (photo 19) - modern 60s, sexy-cute
emma cook - i hate everything about this show. the ugly-ass models (check out photo 4), the horrid hair and makeup, and -worst of all- the trailer park (and sooooo not in a vegas-good way) design and fabrics. ick.
hamish morrow - not certain of the clothes, but there are some really cool photos (photos 38+)
paul smith - it's hard to not get excited by his clothes. wrong but clean pattern combinations are so comforting - tho the first half is much better than the second
sophia kokosalaki - similar pallette to others whom i've labelled blah, but she's managed to make it far from dull. the twists and drapes are so sensual...seemingly ancient and futuristic. a lesson for me in being subtle to be fabulous.
betty jackson (photo 4) - perfect summer dress, 41...a little british girl obsessed with fairies in 40s english countryside
boudicca (photo 4) - love the stiff modernism
eley kishimoto- while they're clothes that i would prob be drawn to in a store, i'm not so excited by them on the runway...gimme a little fantasy, please
elspeth gibson (photo 19) - modern 60s, sexy-cute
emma cook - i hate everything about this show. the ugly-ass models (check out photo 4), the horrid hair and makeup, and -worst of all- the trailer park (and sooooo not in a vegas-good way) design and fabrics. ick.
hamish morrow - not certain of the clothes, but there are some really cool photos (photos 38+)
paul smith - it's hard to not get excited by his clothes. wrong but clean pattern combinations are so comforting - tho the first half is much better than the second
sophia kokosalaki - similar pallette to others whom i've labelled blah, but she's managed to make it far from dull. the twists and drapes are so sensual...seemingly ancient and futuristic. a lesson for me in being subtle to be fabulous.
Friday, September 19, 2003
Obligatory Spring 2004 Fashion Breakdown
When I lived in my parents' house, my mom sewed most of my clothes. We would go to ClothWorld and I would search the pattern books for the clothes that were going to change my life. For the most part, they never actually did. I still have a lot of those dresses and skirts and they still make me happy, though. It's extremely difficult for me to get rid of anything my mom made for me. They have so much sentimental value and are of such great quality. Moving away, I quickly learned the value of custom-made clothing. She still surprises me with things every once in a while. A pair of pin-striped trousers, a lilac silk shell...always perfect.
As you can maybe guess, my mother made me into a bit of a clothing fanatic. Perhaps it was those days looking at pattern books and fabrics or the boxes and boxes of doll clothes (mine and Tara's and also those from her childhood), but I am definitely one of those girls who truly believed I was going to grow up to be Barbie. This probably explains why I am actually crying for this one particular look. Photo 39 from Anna Sui's show perfectly illustrates what I always dreamed of wearing. Equal parts Malibu Barbie and exotic genie-wear...perfect dress-up clothing. Now if only this was acceptable office-gear...
I have quite the wish list for next Spring (pretty much anything from Diane Von Furstenberg [sexy-dressy-caszh], Oscar de la Renta [for all my formals, ya know], and Doo Ri [for everything else])...I plan to attempt to make a pair gold/black acrylic pants. I'm going to use this standard pattern that my mom has been using for years...I'm going to cut them a bit lower though. The hard part will be finding the exact fabric I'm imagining...like a 70s acrylic sweater - black interwoven with gold. Also, I want to modify that same pattern for a pair of trousers that buttons up both sides (thigh to waist...the pattern currently zips up the back). I want to find a pair of dove-grey wide-waisted trousers, too. And a bunch of bright v-neck pullovers to wear over oxford shirts.
And a quick rundown of my impressions (or at least all the ones that compelled me to jot down notes, even during my .NET lecture) of the NY shows:
Unfortunately, for the most part, I'm feeling a little bored again. The trend I'm seeing is "the same thing done better by another designer 3 years ago" - see Tuleh [though I'm a sucker for gingham], DKNY, Luca Luca [umm...everything ever done by Tom Ford?], Betsey Johnson [I do like her and I like these clothes, but arent these exact rip-offs of D&G about 4 years ago??]. Not that any of these clothes are bad, I would die for any of them...but as a whole their shows just felt a little bit retread.
Dont get me started again on Imitation of Christ, blah blah blah. We've even seen *her* wearing this crap LAST YEAR.
Anne Klein is the only one that seemed to get a lot of criticism. I dont really think there's anything wrong here, but as I said above...I've just seen it before. Someone else did it better already. Though the hair and makeup - swoooon!
Zac Posen - I'm never one for bandwagons, but I dare you to criticize this collection. I admit it's pure jealousy...how can a cool kid with rich parents who grew up in Soho and is only 24 years old actually be talented??? Unfortunately, he is. He *is* the future.
Matthew Williamson - I've always loved his color (actually, that Anna Sui dress is pure him), but I really like the subtleness of this season. The pink edgings give just enough personality to a well cut jacket, as do the little pink belts to simple dresses and trousers.
Tommy Hilfiger - I like this stuff more and more each season...I want to find out who is actually doing the design. Whoever it is has an absolute talent for likeable, wearable. I would never believe it possible to pull off genie pants, but there you are.
Marc Jacobs/Marc for Marc Jacobs - Blasphemy, I know, but for the second season in a row, I'm totally not excited about any of this. For so long, it seemed that he was incapable of producing one bad piece. But read the reviews, what do I know? I guess I do know what excites my eye, and this (sadly) is not it.
Badgley Mischka - Is this the ugliest dress you've ever seen?
Calvin Klein - The new designer gave a surprisingly gorgeous collection. Some might say it's a little boring or lacking in spark (but isnt that very Calvin??), but I am drawn to so many...photos 24, 34, 37, 38, 39. I dont think I'll be missing Calvin.
Peter Som - This is the girl I want to be: elegant with lotsa leg. And I think I may sell my kidney for a pair of these ribbon sandals. The perfect pink, and blue, and green. Sigh...
As you can maybe guess, my mother made me into a bit of a clothing fanatic. Perhaps it was those days looking at pattern books and fabrics or the boxes and boxes of doll clothes (mine and Tara's and also those from her childhood), but I am definitely one of those girls who truly believed I was going to grow up to be Barbie. This probably explains why I am actually crying for this one particular look. Photo 39 from Anna Sui's show perfectly illustrates what I always dreamed of wearing. Equal parts Malibu Barbie and exotic genie-wear...perfect dress-up clothing. Now if only this was acceptable office-gear...
I have quite the wish list for next Spring (pretty much anything from Diane Von Furstenberg [sexy-dressy-caszh], Oscar de la Renta [for all my formals, ya know], and Doo Ri [for everything else])...I plan to attempt to make a pair gold/black acrylic pants. I'm going to use this standard pattern that my mom has been using for years...I'm going to cut them a bit lower though. The hard part will be finding the exact fabric I'm imagining...like a 70s acrylic sweater - black interwoven with gold. Also, I want to modify that same pattern for a pair of trousers that buttons up both sides (thigh to waist...the pattern currently zips up the back). I want to find a pair of dove-grey wide-waisted trousers, too. And a bunch of bright v-neck pullovers to wear over oxford shirts.
And a quick rundown of my impressions (or at least all the ones that compelled me to jot down notes, even during my .NET lecture) of the NY shows:
Unfortunately, for the most part, I'm feeling a little bored again. The trend I'm seeing is "the same thing done better by another designer 3 years ago" - see Tuleh [though I'm a sucker for gingham], DKNY, Luca Luca [umm...everything ever done by Tom Ford?], Betsey Johnson [I do like her and I like these clothes, but arent these exact rip-offs of D&G about 4 years ago??]. Not that any of these clothes are bad, I would die for any of them...but as a whole their shows just felt a little bit retread.
Dont get me started again on Imitation of Christ, blah blah blah. We've even seen *her* wearing this crap LAST YEAR.
Anne Klein is the only one that seemed to get a lot of criticism. I dont really think there's anything wrong here, but as I said above...I've just seen it before. Someone else did it better already. Though the hair and makeup - swoooon!
Zac Posen - I'm never one for bandwagons, but I dare you to criticize this collection. I admit it's pure jealousy...how can a cool kid with rich parents who grew up in Soho and is only 24 years old actually be talented??? Unfortunately, he is. He *is* the future.
Matthew Williamson - I've always loved his color (actually, that Anna Sui dress is pure him), but I really like the subtleness of this season. The pink edgings give just enough personality to a well cut jacket, as do the little pink belts to simple dresses and trousers.
Tommy Hilfiger - I like this stuff more and more each season...I want to find out who is actually doing the design. Whoever it is has an absolute talent for likeable, wearable. I would never believe it possible to pull off genie pants, but there you are.
Marc Jacobs/Marc for Marc Jacobs - Blasphemy, I know, but for the second season in a row, I'm totally not excited about any of this. For so long, it seemed that he was incapable of producing one bad piece. But read the reviews, what do I know? I guess I do know what excites my eye, and this (sadly) is not it.
Badgley Mischka - Is this the ugliest dress you've ever seen?
Calvin Klein - The new designer gave a surprisingly gorgeous collection. Some might say it's a little boring or lacking in spark (but isnt that very Calvin??), but I am drawn to so many...photos 24, 34, 37, 38, 39. I dont think I'll be missing Calvin.
Peter Som - This is the girl I want to be: elegant with lotsa leg. And I think I may sell my kidney for a pair of these ribbon sandals. The perfect pink, and blue, and green. Sigh...
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