If the idea of September issues for fashion mags doesnt send your heart aflutter, perhaps this post isnt for you.
Vogue UK: Kate Moss is on the cover, thank heavens, since Marc has forbidden me from buying this magazine except for March and September. It's a semi-disappointing photo though, as it's a little poorly photo-shopped. "Flash Dance" has really cool backgrounds, but I cant get over the model. She's much too young and not striking enough. "Deadlier Than The Male" is a cliched fashion spread. I think I saw this in Glamour, fo real. The dresses themselves are nice and I usu like the model (Elise Crombez), but there's nothing fantastical about the layout. "Out of all Proportion" is a nice play on angles and size but nothing worth ripping out. "All Woman" has the best balance of setting, hair, clothing, model. "Mademoiselle" is oh-so-french. I'm very excited for tweed. The layout is all about the clothes, which is refreshing. "Sweet Charity" is a little too styled and yawn.
Allure: Eww Kirsten Dunst. I learned that she really likes how she looks. "Risky Business" - love Erin Wasson, love secretarial settings, love noir.
Let's hope Harper's and Vogue arrive soon.
Ad reviews:
Gucci: nothing too shocking, but the army green sequined dress and matching fur shrug is breathtaking. Tom Ford really is gone though.
Gap: why the fuck would anyone give SJP a job? Especially one that requires modelling? She's old and not-so-cute and I dont think this is going to do much for the gap.
Dior: Gwen's influence on Galliano is quite visible, but unfort it's on euro-trashy-chinatown-ripoff crap.
Prada: Such great clothes, such terrible ads. She's sticking with the ugly model, bad makeup, hyper-photoshopped-plastic-skin look.
Louis Vuitton - I'm waiting for the full 8-page version in Vogue. Initial thoughts? Tired of actresses in ads. Please make Chloe Sevigny and Scarlett Johannson go away, though it's a step-up from JLo.
Bottega Veneta: True luxury. Their ads and products always look like sophisticated old-money.
Paul Smith: Stand-out.
Versace: Can this label get more lame? Seriously, this is retread of low-rent Versus.
MiuMiu: Why did everyone decide that Maggie Gyllenhaal is attractive or interesting?
Chanel: Boooooring and not even Kate.
Sisley: Naked ugly girl!
Smeg: I abs love that this refrigerator company advertises in every issue of British Vogue. I would *die* for one.
Guess: Whyyyyyyy Paris Hilton?
JLo: Why does she still exist anymore? Is there any earthly use for her?
Wow, I'm petty.
Sunday, August 29, 2004
Friday, July 09, 2004
Paris Couture - Day 3
Elie Saab - Glam-mooooour. Spider webbed sequins, high-waisted disco pants (Photo 6 espec), very lovely. Of course, Hollywood stylists will soon make this stepford wifed blah. Like Oscar, this designer is just very good at making pretty perfection. There’s certainly nothing wrong with that, although it’s something I usually fault a designer for. In this case (and in Oscar de la Renta’s), I feel there’s still a love of fashion and risk mixed in with the faultless designs. Not crazy for the members only jackets over some of the dresses and is that *three* wedding dresses at the end?
Jean Paul Gaultier - DESPISE the hats and fringe, but love the sweater boots. Are those pant-boots in Photo 4? There’s a whole disco-robin hood thing here that I’m not digging…I feel like you need an eagle on your forearm to wear this. Maybe I just feel this way because of the overabundance of capes – something I’ve been toying with in my head for the last few years. I have this green plaid cape of my mother’s that I have yet to figure out the best way to wear. I think you will def see it this year though. I will not be wearing it with a fedora, fyi and Photo 25 is wow.
Jean Paul Gaultier - DESPISE the hats and fringe, but love the sweater boots. Are those pant-boots in Photo 4? There’s a whole disco-robin hood thing here that I’m not digging…I feel like you need an eagle on your forearm to wear this. Maybe I just feel this way because of the overabundance of capes – something I’ve been toying with in my head for the last few years. I have this green plaid cape of my mother’s that I have yet to figure out the best way to wear. I think you will def see it this year though. I will not be wearing it with a fedora, fyi and Photo 25 is wow.
Wednesday, July 07, 2004
Paris Couture Fall-Winter 2004-5
I know it's been days and days and days. I have a lot to discuss, but first things first!
Dior - Well you already know how I feel about that. Sigh.
Ahhhh, Valentino. He always gets it right. Always wearable but not in the slightest bit common. He's fantasy if your desire is to be a lady of leisure or the wife of a French president or luxury goods magnate. And tell me who doesnt have such desires. The smartest suits with a more than healthy dose of film noir. A cigarette is required equipment for such a look, as well as a thick coating of knife-edged dragon red lipstick. Photo 18 is what I will meet you in for drinks, where you can tell me the details on how you plan to kill your wife. Photo 21 is what I will wear to the 30th birthday of a dear model friend and where you insult me and I'm forced to toss my dirty martini in your face [sorry dahling]. Photo 28 will be worn to one of the never-ending art gallery openings...though on this particular night I overhear a handsome stranger's plan for stealing the crown piece of the art show, moments before its auction. And, of course, I lounge around the apartment in Photo 43.
Anne Valerie Hash - Her style is a little too floaty-bland-*artiste* for me, though the blouse in Photo 18 is lovely. The multi-layered pleating of the skirt in 25 is also very interesting. As a whole, her style of reconstructed menswear is just not very me. And it's all about me.
Ralph Rucci Chado - I usu view him as the epitome of bland, but the inkling of courrege and 60s style livens things up. A tad. A very sharply dressed woman, no doubt. Perhaps I will wear Photos 9, 20 and 21 when I enter my sixth or seventh decade...Photo 31 is simply lovely though.
Dior - Well you already know how I feel about that. Sigh.
Ahhhh, Valentino. He always gets it right. Always wearable but not in the slightest bit common. He's fantasy if your desire is to be a lady of leisure or the wife of a French president or luxury goods magnate. And tell me who doesnt have such desires. The smartest suits with a more than healthy dose of film noir. A cigarette is required equipment for such a look, as well as a thick coating of knife-edged dragon red lipstick. Photo 18 is what I will meet you in for drinks, where you can tell me the details on how you plan to kill your wife. Photo 21 is what I will wear to the 30th birthday of a dear model friend and where you insult me and I'm forced to toss my dirty martini in your face [sorry dahling]. Photo 28 will be worn to one of the never-ending art gallery openings...though on this particular night I overhear a handsome stranger's plan for stealing the crown piece of the art show, moments before its auction. And, of course, I lounge around the apartment in Photo 43.
Anne Valerie Hash - Her style is a little too floaty-bland-*artiste* for me, though the blouse in Photo 18 is lovely. The multi-layered pleating of the skirt in 25 is also very interesting. As a whole, her style of reconstructed menswear is just not very me. And it's all about me.
Ralph Rucci Chado - I usu view him as the epitome of bland, but the inkling of courrege and 60s style livens things up. A tad. A very sharply dressed woman, no doubt. Perhaps I will wear Photos 9, 20 and 21 when I enter my sixth or seventh decade...Photo 31 is simply lovely though.
Tuesday, March 09, 2004
Paris (Day 5.5)
Kenzo - Mini-Galliano this season...so odd that they have so many matching influences...the Scarlet skirts, the kimono-esque dresses. Kenzo is just on a slightly less-over-the-top scale. 7,19,22,30-those tights!!!,41,45,46
Louis Vuitton - An amazing coat (1). I can honestly say I've seen nothing like it. A nice mix of textures and styles. I love the hair and capelets (12- i'm just a sucker for blue satin bows). Dark plaids sometimes come across as dated Ralph Lauren rejects, but he's used these in a modern-y vintage-y way that makes them fresh and lust-worthy (15). These daring 40s/50s dresses are just *this* side of cheesy, but in such luxe fabrics and rich colors they're *that* side of phenomenal (19,20,36,41,43). Gorgeous funny suits - 31,35...yay!
Martin Grant - Nice 60s style...28,29,32,33,34...awesome midnight blue and purple. 36 is just fabulous.
Martine Sitbon - Drapey, ruffley, nice, but maybe there have been better shows.
Nina Ricci - Very wearably, well-dressed comfort. The colors are fantastic (37,39,41). Nice girl clothes.
Revillon - Rick Owen's blah (see below), now with more fur (it's one of the oldest fur brands).
Rick Owens - boooooring. i have yet to understand his appeal. supposedly he makes paper-thin leathers...woo. There's always a prisoner-in-a-space-colony vibe and it depresses me.
Sonia Rykiel - Whatever decade is the touchpoint for 12 and 13, I'm totally in. 20s? Gorgeously bright and happy dresses, hilarious sweaters, just plain perfect dresses (did I already mention). Love the cabaret feel of the closing. I want to be so....Rykiel too!
Stella McCartney - Some more (s'more?) sleeping bag wear, maybe not quite as successful. The prints of the jackets are striking and new (11,13). Futuristic cool (16,19,37,40,46)...the dresses are the most interesting and the most lovely.
Tim van Steenbergen - Slouchy, avant-rumpled suits and dresses. I actually really like this.
Valentino - I love ties. Especially with such a feminine lace blouse (1,20). Sexy, manly ('cept that fabulous fur shrug in 10). I am crying for everything in photo 14. Oh my. Just look at every photo. Drop Dead Gorgeous. Every single one. So utterly french...masculine mixed with femme, hard with soft...perhaps he should be at YSL? I cant imagine why a celebrity would pick another designer's gowns...these are jaw-dropping.
Viktor & Rolf - Let's ignore the antlers for a moment and comment on how deceptively simple and fantastic photo 2 is. Photo 5 or 16 could be the most perfect suit I've seen. I esp like the black bow belt in 5. Are you seeing a trend of strong (not necess padded) shoulders? This is probably their least wacky show and is most def their most undeniably wearable collection. I really liked each piece. Like, a lot.
YSL Rive Gauche - The colors! The shoulders! Satin and velvet have become almost Tom Ford trademarks...these are gorgeous examples of his knowledge of women's desires. All sexy and hard and just this side of scary. The detail in the skirts is amazing (partic 30)...skirts should never be too simple, as the bit of leg showing is enough to make anything look nice. Great evening - 32,34,35. A very good final showing.
Louis Vuitton - An amazing coat (1). I can honestly say I've seen nothing like it. A nice mix of textures and styles. I love the hair and capelets (12- i'm just a sucker for blue satin bows). Dark plaids sometimes come across as dated Ralph Lauren rejects, but he's used these in a modern-y vintage-y way that makes them fresh and lust-worthy (15). These daring 40s/50s dresses are just *this* side of cheesy, but in such luxe fabrics and rich colors they're *that* side of phenomenal (19,20,36,41,43). Gorgeous funny suits - 31,35...yay!
Martin Grant - Nice 60s style...28,29,32,33,34...awesome midnight blue and purple. 36 is just fabulous.
Martine Sitbon - Drapey, ruffley, nice, but maybe there have been better shows.
Nina Ricci - Very wearably, well-dressed comfort. The colors are fantastic (37,39,41). Nice girl clothes.
Revillon - Rick Owen's blah (see below), now with more fur (it's one of the oldest fur brands).
Rick Owens - boooooring. i have yet to understand his appeal. supposedly he makes paper-thin leathers...woo. There's always a prisoner-in-a-space-colony vibe and it depresses me.
Sonia Rykiel - Whatever decade is the touchpoint for 12 and 13, I'm totally in. 20s? Gorgeously bright and happy dresses, hilarious sweaters, just plain perfect dresses (did I already mention). Love the cabaret feel of the closing. I want to be so....Rykiel too!
Stella McCartney - Some more (s'more?) sleeping bag wear, maybe not quite as successful. The prints of the jackets are striking and new (11,13). Futuristic cool (16,19,37,40,46)...the dresses are the most interesting and the most lovely.
Tim van Steenbergen - Slouchy, avant-rumpled suits and dresses. I actually really like this.
Valentino - I love ties. Especially with such a feminine lace blouse (1,20). Sexy, manly ('cept that fabulous fur shrug in 10). I am crying for everything in photo 14. Oh my. Just look at every photo. Drop Dead Gorgeous. Every single one. So utterly french...masculine mixed with femme, hard with soft...perhaps he should be at YSL? I cant imagine why a celebrity would pick another designer's gowns...these are jaw-dropping.
Viktor & Rolf - Let's ignore the antlers for a moment and comment on how deceptively simple and fantastic photo 2 is. Photo 5 or 16 could be the most perfect suit I've seen. I esp like the black bow belt in 5. Are you seeing a trend of strong (not necess padded) shoulders? This is probably their least wacky show and is most def their most undeniably wearable collection. I really liked each piece. Like, a lot.
YSL Rive Gauche - The colors! The shoulders! Satin and velvet have become almost Tom Ford trademarks...these are gorgeous examples of his knowledge of women's desires. All sexy and hard and just this side of scary. The detail in the skirts is amazing (partic 30)...skirts should never be too simple, as the bit of leg showing is enough to make anything look nice. Great evening - 32,34,35. A very good final showing.
Monday, March 08, 2004
Paris (Day 5.25)
Ok, I lied. I didnt notice that Vogue UK hadnt posted *TWENTY-FIVE* shows, but did so today. Argh. These will be split over two more days!
Akris -I read an interesting article on this designer recently. Apparently, his studio is located in the mountains of Sweden or Switzerland or somewhere neutral like that. He has little contact with the fashion world, which gives a very classic and untrendy influence to his clothes. These are surprisingly un-boring pieces. The structured jackets and flimsy blouses is always a nice look. 17,18,23,31 - very classy and safe but not at all boring and simple.
Alexander McQueen - Incredible workmanship without theatrics. Very un-McQueen, but his skills are quite evident. The slinky draped dresses (14 - a modern grecian style and 40 too, 39,45,48) and the just as slinky, impeccably cut (and so new!!! such interesting styles!) tweed suits (5,8,9,24). I have even more respect for him now. This is proof of his talent, more than any other show I've seen. So mature and sophisticated, and still drop-dead avant garde (9,20). Stunning. Inspiring.
Ann Demeulemeester - Riding clothes gone deconstructed. 9 and 33 are nice.
Balmain - Seriously missing the femininity and exactness of Oscar de la Renta...33 is nice in a predictable statement evening gown sort of way. A little bit *mature* woman.
Cacharel - I adore unexpected coat linings (4)! Why isnt this more common?! Very cute (23,37,46), but not cute enough to make me cry.
[difficulties on Vogue UK so onto Vogue.com (sorry)]
Chanel - A little bland, though the lace skirts are appealing (16,18). The overalls, sweatsuits, and leather pants are jaw dropping in their awfulness. This whole show reminds me of those fake Chanels you see where you think "but Chanel would never even make anything that awful!"
Collette Dinnigan - Gorgeous lace (4,7,18,35,36), though a lot of the rest are a bit mall slutty.
Chloe - Nice layering and nice dresses. I will never be able to fully get behind the caftan. Perfect trousers, delicate tops, and big and small cardigans make for a cosy fall. Some of the best dresses to dream about (30,37- the colors!).
Givenchy - Matrix-Audrey. Nice and grownup dresses (4,11,27-acidy orange is my new favorite!,29,31,36,39-or maybe yellow,43-that lace! those layers!!,45). Soft suits (13,16). Hard jackets (9,21). A seriously fantastic last collection. I hope he finds a better house that will give him the respect he deserves. I need a formal cocktail party and I need those dresses!!
Hermes - Gaultier keeping with the Hermes horsey theme...not *such* a fan. I do think the new clutch Birkins (15) are exciting and the saddle-stitched corsets (10)! Of course, all of the leathers are a dream...edgy but classic (12,21,27,46,53), as is the use of orange (24).
Hussein Chalayan - A little bulky and morose. Very nicely cut trousers though (24). And little ballet dresses (30), with fabulous hems.
John Galliano - Insanity! With a little bit of Westwood (8). A vagrant mexican Scarlet. Bizarre. Loooove the cut and sheerness of the over dresses/skirts (17). If you believe that fashion is not art, then how do you explain Galliano?
Lanvin - Sexy little things 6,14,19,41,45. Properly pretty little things 8, 20,21,22,39,40. Odd 12, 16, 43 (perhaps Nobel Prize Chic?). Militaristic chic 13. Basically, party girl clothes for every mood.
Akris -I read an interesting article on this designer recently. Apparently, his studio is located in the mountains of Sweden or Switzerland or somewhere neutral like that. He has little contact with the fashion world, which gives a very classic and untrendy influence to his clothes. These are surprisingly un-boring pieces. The structured jackets and flimsy blouses is always a nice look. 17,18,23,31 - very classy and safe but not at all boring and simple.
Alexander McQueen - Incredible workmanship without theatrics. Very un-McQueen, but his skills are quite evident. The slinky draped dresses (14 - a modern grecian style and 40 too, 39,45,48) and the just as slinky, impeccably cut (and so new!!! such interesting styles!) tweed suits (5,8,9,24). I have even more respect for him now. This is proof of his talent, more than any other show I've seen. So mature and sophisticated, and still drop-dead avant garde (9,20). Stunning. Inspiring.
Ann Demeulemeester - Riding clothes gone deconstructed. 9 and 33 are nice.
Balmain - Seriously missing the femininity and exactness of Oscar de la Renta...33 is nice in a predictable statement evening gown sort of way. A little bit *mature* woman.
Cacharel - I adore unexpected coat linings (4)! Why isnt this more common?! Very cute (23,37,46), but not cute enough to make me cry.
[difficulties on Vogue UK so onto Vogue.com (sorry)]
Chanel - A little bland, though the lace skirts are appealing (16,18). The overalls, sweatsuits, and leather pants are jaw dropping in their awfulness. This whole show reminds me of those fake Chanels you see where you think "but Chanel would never even make anything that awful!"
Collette Dinnigan - Gorgeous lace (4,7,18,35,36), though a lot of the rest are a bit mall slutty.
Chloe - Nice layering and nice dresses. I will never be able to fully get behind the caftan. Perfect trousers, delicate tops, and big and small cardigans make for a cosy fall. Some of the best dresses to dream about (30,37- the colors!).
Givenchy - Matrix-Audrey. Nice and grownup dresses (4,11,27-acidy orange is my new favorite!,29,31,36,39-or maybe yellow,43-that lace! those layers!!,45). Soft suits (13,16). Hard jackets (9,21). A seriously fantastic last collection. I hope he finds a better house that will give him the respect he deserves. I need a formal cocktail party and I need those dresses!!
Hermes - Gaultier keeping with the Hermes horsey theme...not *such* a fan. I do think the new clutch Birkins (15) are exciting and the saddle-stitched corsets (10)! Of course, all of the leathers are a dream...edgy but classic (12,21,27,46,53), as is the use of orange (24).
Hussein Chalayan - A little bulky and morose. Very nicely cut trousers though (24). And little ballet dresses (30), with fabulous hems.
John Galliano - Insanity! With a little bit of Westwood (8). A vagrant mexican Scarlet. Bizarre. Loooove the cut and sheerness of the over dresses/skirts (17). If you believe that fashion is not art, then how do you explain Galliano?
Lanvin - Sexy little things 6,14,19,41,45. Properly pretty little things 8, 20,21,22,39,40. Odd 12, 16, 43 (perhaps Nobel Prize Chic?). Militaristic chic 13. Basically, party girl clothes for every mood.
Sunday, March 07, 2004
The end of all this fashion (Paris, day 5)
Celine - Michael Kors knows how to dress the elegant, stylish woman. You can picture his clothes on a 22 year old and a 76 year old and both would look the epitome of WASP-y sophistication, but with a layer of fun and sexy just under the surface. The perfect Hitchcock heroine, if you will (1,10,11- I adore this cut of sweater...very Audrey, 12,37) . He's incapable of doing even the tiniest bit of sleaze, he's all about luxury - sweaters, leathers, sunglasses (5,13).
Dries Van Noten - Oh how I hate this woven fabric in these rug-like patterns and colors. These pants are horrendous (8). I do like the coats in 22 and 26...the color/pattern/cut are very nice. 73 photos, praise the Lord for a fast connection.
Helmut Lang - I like skinny black pants. I dont like coppery leather. Especially in asymetrical, cropped jacket form (17). I despise his take on an evening gown. That was just godawful. I'm intrigued by the ruffle on those boots tho.
Loewe - Jetset sex. Looooove the cut of the pants (5,31), the fur vests (20), the slim dresses (6,16,27), the coats (8,25), the ribbons (6,32), and all those boots! I didnt want this show to end. The most fashionable without being obnoxious, muted without being boring. Excellent.
Veronique Branquinho - Mysterious hats, FBI agent gear (meaning not sexy like a double-crossing spy). A little too frumpy, diy to me. The silk pajamas feel towards the end of the jackets, dresses, and skirts was an interesting look. I especially like the understated evening of 45.
Dries Van Noten - Oh how I hate this woven fabric in these rug-like patterns and colors. These pants are horrendous (8). I do like the coats in 22 and 26...the color/pattern/cut are very nice. 73 photos, praise the Lord for a fast connection.
Helmut Lang - I like skinny black pants. I dont like coppery leather. Especially in asymetrical, cropped jacket form (17). I despise his take on an evening gown. That was just godawful. I'm intrigued by the ruffle on those boots tho.
Loewe - Jetset sex. Looooove the cut of the pants (5,31), the fur vests (20), the slim dresses (6,16,27), the coats (8,25), the ribbons (6,32), and all those boots! I didnt want this show to end. The most fashionable without being obnoxious, muted without being boring. Excellent.
Veronique Branquinho - Mysterious hats, FBI agent gear (meaning not sexy like a double-crossing spy). A little too frumpy, diy to me. The silk pajamas feel towards the end of the jackets, dresses, and skirts was an interesting look. I especially like the understated evening of 45.
Thursday, March 04, 2004
Pah-ree (Day 4)
Alexandre Herchcovitch - I only wish the models were smiling, because this is such a fun, whimsical collection. The minnie mouse/bumblebee aesthetic is silly, but the pieces are interesting. I love the bustier over tight t's (4) and girlish, poufy sleeves [what's the name for that?] (8, 11). There's a few moments of 19th century corpses, but the bright ruffles redeem him (24).
Bernhard Willhelm - Hmm. The models are much more interesting than the clothes. Early 90s rave. Eh.
Christian Dior - Pure fantasy. I dont understand why when designers do "fashion" it's so serious and hard and scary, but when Galliano does it, there's humor and skill and insane creativity. The cut, the colors...just perfect for a dream (or a circus)! From the clownish colors to the light as air cotton candy dresses (2,5,10,11, 17, 22, 27). And how do you like those David Byrne suits at the end? I love him.
Comme des Garcons - Dropped shoulder seams, backwards pants...The feminized avant garde men's suits (16,17,18,19). Gathered layering, while not bulky is definitely still odd. I'm not sure how I feel about the short pants over long pants. Skirts over pants I'm fully in support of...It's the same thing with Galliano, you are seeing a vision and you have to imagine the real-life, sellable piece. A slightly toned down version of most of these would be very nice and not even that crazy (1,5,21,28,29,33). Just enough edge to keep us all entertained (or confused).
Costume National - Oooooh. 21st century spy noir! (1,4,7!!!!!). Exotic but not overwhelming. I like the small details, the bows on the trouser cuffs (13), the perfect cut of 14. I see a lot of Tom Ford in these designs (partic his YSL design-style), but that's not a bad look to mimic (that icy but sensual, hard but flirty look) (15,24,34,36,43). I really liked all of this...just for the shear fact of its wearability.
Emanuel Ungaro - First of all, I think I want to dress us all in these clothes. How could any of us be unhappy wearing such happy, dreamy, sexy, flirty, fun, feminine, forward things?! The perfect jacket (1), the perfect bubblegum pink (3,6,7), our new jeans and tshirt (11), dropdead gorgeous florals (16,17,20), light-as-a-feather slink (22,23, 25, 27,28, 30,31,36), the perfect christmas party wear (37), and what I'll be wearing to prom (44). I love every single thing. The colors (the reds and blues!!! oh, but those reds and pinks. red!), the fabrics, the whisper-y cuts. Wow wow wow.
Issey Miyake - You cannot take away my love for tulle (4, 6,76,77). Or for silver, heavily seamed skinny pants (13). Or wacky jackets (31, 35). I've never had much love for lace leggings though. I love the printed (and matching!) boots (59, 73). The prints are so original. They seem like pages of a particularly busily illustrated children's book. The clothes are little-girl-dressup with a whole lot of style.
Jean Paul Gaultier - Freaky sexy, freaky androgyny, freaky homeless-lady-weirdly-baggy coats. I didnt really enjoy this, save for the last dress. Very disappointing, as I usually love his shows.
Lagerfeld Gallery - White rebel chic. Siberian motorcyclist. So hardcore. All skinny rockstar pants with black suede stiletto boots. I think Lagerfeld is vying for the job at YSL. The no-nonsense sex. The butch mixed with the ethereal goddess. Every single photo is pure triple-x fantasy. Unh.
Rochas - Mini-skirted evening wear seems so 60s charming. The laces and darker colors make them seem very now. Very fashion forward. It's a very good compliment that I can picture Kate Moss wearing every single dress. The shoes and gloves give an added kooky sophistication. 9, 14, 20, 26, 39. The heavily structured tulle ballgowns are just pure imagination. 38, 44. A feast of the best in evening, if you like a little Mod in your glamour.
Bernhard Willhelm - Hmm. The models are much more interesting than the clothes. Early 90s rave. Eh.
Christian Dior - Pure fantasy. I dont understand why when designers do "fashion" it's so serious and hard and scary, but when Galliano does it, there's humor and skill and insane creativity. The cut, the colors...just perfect for a dream (or a circus)! From the clownish colors to the light as air cotton candy dresses (2,5,10,11, 17, 22, 27). And how do you like those David Byrne suits at the end? I love him.
Comme des Garcons - Dropped shoulder seams, backwards pants...The feminized avant garde men's suits (16,17,18,19). Gathered layering, while not bulky is definitely still odd. I'm not sure how I feel about the short pants over long pants. Skirts over pants I'm fully in support of...It's the same thing with Galliano, you are seeing a vision and you have to imagine the real-life, sellable piece. A slightly toned down version of most of these would be very nice and not even that crazy (1,5,21,28,29,33). Just enough edge to keep us all entertained (or confused).
Costume National - Oooooh. 21st century spy noir! (1,4,7!!!!!). Exotic but not overwhelming. I like the small details, the bows on the trouser cuffs (13), the perfect cut of 14. I see a lot of Tom Ford in these designs (partic his YSL design-style), but that's not a bad look to mimic (that icy but sensual, hard but flirty look) (15,24,34,36,43). I really liked all of this...just for the shear fact of its wearability.
Emanuel Ungaro - First of all, I think I want to dress us all in these clothes. How could any of us be unhappy wearing such happy, dreamy, sexy, flirty, fun, feminine, forward things?! The perfect jacket (1), the perfect bubblegum pink (3,6,7), our new jeans and tshirt (11), dropdead gorgeous florals (16,17,20), light-as-a-feather slink (22,23, 25, 27,28, 30,31,36), the perfect christmas party wear (37), and what I'll be wearing to prom (44). I love every single thing. The colors (the reds and blues!!! oh, but those reds and pinks. red!), the fabrics, the whisper-y cuts. Wow wow wow.
Issey Miyake - You cannot take away my love for tulle (4, 6,76,77). Or for silver, heavily seamed skinny pants (13). Or wacky jackets (31, 35). I've never had much love for lace leggings though. I love the printed (and matching!) boots (59, 73). The prints are so original. They seem like pages of a particularly busily illustrated children's book. The clothes are little-girl-dressup with a whole lot of style.
Jean Paul Gaultier - Freaky sexy, freaky androgyny, freaky homeless-lady-weirdly-baggy coats. I didnt really enjoy this, save for the last dress. Very disappointing, as I usually love his shows.
Lagerfeld Gallery - White rebel chic. Siberian motorcyclist. So hardcore. All skinny rockstar pants with black suede stiletto boots. I think Lagerfeld is vying for the job at YSL. The no-nonsense sex. The butch mixed with the ethereal goddess. Every single photo is pure triple-x fantasy. Unh.
Rochas - Mini-skirted evening wear seems so 60s charming. The laces and darker colors make them seem very now. Very fashion forward. It's a very good compliment that I can picture Kate Moss wearing every single dress. The shoes and gloves give an added kooky sophistication. 9, 14, 20, 26, 39. The heavily structured tulle ballgowns are just pure imagination. 38, 44. A feast of the best in evening, if you like a little Mod in your glamour.
Wednesday, March 03, 2004
Oui, Paris! (Day 2 and 3)
AF Vandevorst - This version of military is not my bag. I like contradictions, but the flowers and ballerinas mixed with military jackets and details doesnt work very well. I would cut you for those boots (especially in blue -25) if you were wearing them right now though.
Andrew Gn - Not thrilled, but 15, 17, 19, 25, 32 are almost perfect. I adore the sequins...they look like Broadway blocks from here. Very cold, sexy, and I adore the poufy short sleeves.
Balenciaga - I have been waiting breathlessly for Nicolas Ghesquiere to thrill me as he did (now) several seasons ago. I'm still waiting. 16,21,22,23 are fabulous though.
Bruno Pieters - Some of this could be a toned down Yohji (14,15,17,28). Some is just plain jawdropping (2,10,25,26,27,29,31). Wow.
Gaspard Yurkievich - Either all the models are fat or he doesnt cut a very flattering silhouette. The few good pieces seem like theyve been done before (better).
Haider Ackermann - Very dorky 80, bad sci fi. I dont like the shoulders at all. I dont really like his colors or fabrics at all either.
Isabel Marant - I feel like I need to be at that party in LA in Annie Hall? Ya know, the one thrown by the guy played by Paul Simon? I'd be the hottest girl in 3 or 4. Floaty, subtle, simple, sublime. I totally dig these: 16, 19, 31, 38. The random shouts of color are so random, she should have left them out...I'm actually not bored by the rest of her palette because the pieces are so well thought out.
Junya Watanabe - Sleeping bag chic. No really. Some of the jackets look very nice (7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 26). The toned down 'bags look extremely comf (11, 21, 23, 29). The sweaters are amazing (31,32). Actually, the more I look at these, the more perfect everything seems. I think I am most impressed by this collection. So different, so covetable.
Girbaud - Iiiiinteresting pants (4, 10, 43) and jackets (5, 12, 21) and boots (8, 27,45). Is that Mad Max mixed with Edwardian? Whatever it is, I'm so in. The heavy construction of each piece leads to a perfect fit and the right amount of edge. I really loved every single look.
Vivienne Westwood - The very best in punk and deconstruction (21). Wacky ass sweaters, yes, but this outfit is luxe luxe luxe (9). I love all the extraneous ties and belts...it's the luxury version of too many zippers and useless straps (35, 46). They serve no purpose, just to make everything a little tougher, a little less pretty, a little more wrong.
Andrew Gn - Not thrilled, but 15, 17, 19, 25, 32 are almost perfect. I adore the sequins...they look like Broadway blocks from here. Very cold, sexy, and I adore the poufy short sleeves.
Balenciaga - I have been waiting breathlessly for Nicolas Ghesquiere to thrill me as he did (now) several seasons ago. I'm still waiting. 16,21,22,23 are fabulous though.
Bruno Pieters - Some of this could be a toned down Yohji (14,15,17,28). Some is just plain jawdropping (2,10,25,26,27,29,31). Wow.
Gaspard Yurkievich - Either all the models are fat or he doesnt cut a very flattering silhouette. The few good pieces seem like theyve been done before (better).
Haider Ackermann - Very dorky 80, bad sci fi. I dont like the shoulders at all. I dont really like his colors or fabrics at all either.
Isabel Marant - I feel like I need to be at that party in LA in Annie Hall? Ya know, the one thrown by the guy played by Paul Simon? I'd be the hottest girl in 3 or 4. Floaty, subtle, simple, sublime. I totally dig these: 16, 19, 31, 38. The random shouts of color are so random, she should have left them out...I'm actually not bored by the rest of her palette because the pieces are so well thought out.
Junya Watanabe - Sleeping bag chic. No really. Some of the jackets look very nice (7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 26). The toned down 'bags look extremely comf (11, 21, 23, 29). The sweaters are amazing (31,32). Actually, the more I look at these, the more perfect everything seems. I think I am most impressed by this collection. So different, so covetable.
Girbaud - Iiiiinteresting pants (4, 10, 43) and jackets (5, 12, 21) and boots (8, 27,45). Is that Mad Max mixed with Edwardian? Whatever it is, I'm so in. The heavy construction of each piece leads to a perfect fit and the right amount of edge. I really loved every single look.
Vivienne Westwood - The very best in punk and deconstruction (21). Wacky ass sweaters, yes, but this outfit is luxe luxe luxe (9). I love all the extraneous ties and belts...it's the luxury version of too many zippers and useless straps (35, 46). They serve no purpose, just to make everything a little tougher, a little less pretty, a little more wrong.
Tuesday, March 02, 2004
Paris (Day 1)
Undercover - Sloppy punk. I can spot a few choice pieces, but it's hard to make a real assessment through the piles of clothes.
Yohji Yamamoto - This is the most Wixlet collection in history. I hope she enjoyed it. I love taking such fussy shapes and making them seem so laid back and easy. I mean, is that calico (2,3,6)? They look so low-maintenance and happy for a Fall collection. I love them. In fact, I want to make them. The built in bags are a little much but maybe theyll be pared down for the store. The dress in 46 is the epitome of cool...the cool girl with a perfect body that doesnt feel the need to prove it.
Y's - Those split skirts are sooooo wrong, but I think I want one sooooo bad. Interesting things with simple white and black shirts. Keep that in mind (1,2,56,58,60).
Yohji Yamamoto - This is the most Wixlet collection in history. I hope she enjoyed it. I love taking such fussy shapes and making them seem so laid back and easy. I mean, is that calico (2,3,6)? They look so low-maintenance and happy for a Fall collection. I love them. In fact, I want to make them. The built in bags are a little much but maybe theyll be pared down for the store. The dress in 46 is the epitome of cool...the cool girl with a perfect body that doesnt feel the need to prove it.
Y's - Those split skirts are sooooo wrong, but I think I want one sooooo bad. Interesting things with simple white and black shirts. Keep that in mind (1,2,56,58,60).
Monday, March 01, 2004
Milan (Day 5)
Again, sorry for the delay!
Burberry Prorsum - Rich, rumply, belted. The patent coat in photo 14 reminds me of early Tom Ford Gucci. The color, the fit. Very nice. I'm dreaming of belted coats and dresses, for sure.
Dolce and Gabbana - People love to hate the baby doll, but I will forever love it. It's quite flattering to my preferences and it makes your legs look very long. It's surprisingly girlish for the drop dead sexy norm of Dolce and Gabbana. Their talent for creating the crispest, sexiest suits and photos (5,7) does not disappoint. I'm sensing a less matronly Chanel influence, which can never be bad (9,14,31). I only worry that it's a bit toooo Chanel (56,58). These are the perfect pants, however (57). It's hard to criticize such genuinely fun and sexy (get me a thesaurus, stat) clothes.
Fendi - Hard-edged luxe. This bloody purple (5)...oooooooh. Purrrrfect pants (10). Spacey comfort. Each piece looks soooo comfortable - my ideal party clothes.
Jil Sander - Quietly chic. Simple. 18,22,23,31,32 These seem like Natalie Portman dresses. You need to be perfectly pretty to pull off the plainness.
Marni - This is the collection that Miu Miu should have been (2,8,16,24,29,34). All of Miuccia Prada's fingerprints are there, the 50s feel, the vintage charm, the pairing of the ugly with the cheery, the nerd appeal. Marni captured all of this and perfected it. Plus, I want tweedy hotpants more than anything in the world (46). Damn, photo 2 is just everything I want to be on a daily basis this Fall.
Missoni - Like Pucci, it's hard to go wrong with these signature prints. They give instant fun and a vintage appeal, but the design is also pure fun and classy-sexy - very in-the-know without being overdone. (2,3,10,14,27,42,43)
Miu Miu - I wasnt sure of the color scheme until I reached photo 8. The fabric of that skirt and the cut of that coat! Mmm. Perfect Barbie-wear. The rest are some great pieces, but nothing to cry for. I did like 35,40,46 very much, however.
Moschino - I always love the 40s Minnie Mouse look to these clothes. The lavendar legs, the dress in photo 7, ladylike, daring, fun. The prints are so wacky chic (are those women??). I'm desperate for the perfect leopard print investment and some nice bright tights.
Roberto Cavalli - Hideously ugly. Do I really have to look at all 72 photos?! *seriously* ugly.
Versace - It's not fair cuz I'm a sucker for herringbone! And I love it mixed with yellow! But this is just not good. And there should be an award for ugliest hair, makeup, and models. Ick. Just stick with the red carpet gear. I mean, anyone who thinks that 39 and 40 are *fashionable* or even desirable on any level should please leave the room. I think women pro-westlers wouldnt get near that shit. Damn, I spoke too soon. Even her red carpet shit fucking sucks. She should have stuck with her standard two looks that she's been recycling since she took over. Any actress who shows up in 52 should be shot.
Versus - Ill-fitting mid-90s slutty mall crap. Can words describe how awful photos 12 and 13 are?
Burberry Prorsum - Rich, rumply, belted. The patent coat in photo 14 reminds me of early Tom Ford Gucci. The color, the fit. Very nice. I'm dreaming of belted coats and dresses, for sure.
Dolce and Gabbana - People love to hate the baby doll, but I will forever love it. It's quite flattering to my preferences and it makes your legs look very long. It's surprisingly girlish for the drop dead sexy norm of Dolce and Gabbana. Their talent for creating the crispest, sexiest suits and photos (5,7) does not disappoint. I'm sensing a less matronly Chanel influence, which can never be bad (9,14,31). I only worry that it's a bit toooo Chanel (56,58). These are the perfect pants, however (57). It's hard to criticize such genuinely fun and sexy (get me a thesaurus, stat) clothes.
Fendi - Hard-edged luxe. This bloody purple (5)...oooooooh. Purrrrfect pants (10). Spacey comfort. Each piece looks soooo comfortable - my ideal party clothes.
Jil Sander - Quietly chic. Simple. 18,22,23,31,32 These seem like Natalie Portman dresses. You need to be perfectly pretty to pull off the plainness.
Marni - This is the collection that Miu Miu should have been (2,8,16,24,29,34). All of Miuccia Prada's fingerprints are there, the 50s feel, the vintage charm, the pairing of the ugly with the cheery, the nerd appeal. Marni captured all of this and perfected it. Plus, I want tweedy hotpants more than anything in the world (46). Damn, photo 2 is just everything I want to be on a daily basis this Fall.
Missoni - Like Pucci, it's hard to go wrong with these signature prints. They give instant fun and a vintage appeal, but the design is also pure fun and classy-sexy - very in-the-know without being overdone. (2,3,10,14,27,42,43)
Miu Miu - I wasnt sure of the color scheme until I reached photo 8. The fabric of that skirt and the cut of that coat! Mmm. Perfect Barbie-wear. The rest are some great pieces, but nothing to cry for. I did like 35,40,46 very much, however.
Moschino - I always love the 40s Minnie Mouse look to these clothes. The lavendar legs, the dress in photo 7, ladylike, daring, fun. The prints are so wacky chic (are those women??). I'm desperate for the perfect leopard print investment and some nice bright tights.
Roberto Cavalli - Hideously ugly. Do I really have to look at all 72 photos?! *seriously* ugly.
Versace - It's not fair cuz I'm a sucker for herringbone! And I love it mixed with yellow! But this is just not good. And there should be an award for ugliest hair, makeup, and models. Ick. Just stick with the red carpet gear. I mean, anyone who thinks that 39 and 40 are *fashionable* or even desirable on any level should please leave the room. I think women pro-westlers wouldnt get near that shit. Damn, I spoke too soon. Even her red carpet shit fucking sucks. She should have stuck with her standard two looks that she's been recycling since she took over. Any actress who shows up in 52 should be shot.
Versus - Ill-fitting mid-90s slutty mall crap. Can words describe how awful photos 12 and 13 are?
Thursday, February 26, 2004
Milan (Day 2 and 3 and 4)
Bottega Veneta - I need this type of sleepy sweater (9) to laze about in but still maintain the idea of style. 26 is the essence of chic...not that I'm crazy about fur, but this has a vintage-y vibe, so I'll let it pass. Overall, I just love the nude mixed with bright colors. I'm crazy for nude right now. I hate my skintone, so wearing nude colors makes me feel perfectly complected. And who can say no to green shoes, I ask?
D&G - Not sexy enough for my D&G expectations, but the layering of colors and design in 16 is very lust-worthy. The coat in 31 is soooooooo fantabulous. Seriously, the color, the bow, the lining. You could wear that for the next 30 years and never be bored or boring.
DSquared2 - I will never be excited for lumberjacks. The cut of their pants seems very nice tho (6,26). That chocolate satin is dreamy of course (42) and with the belt, it reminds me a little of Tracy's wedding dress in The Philadelphia Story.
Emilio Pucci - Oh! These suits are wild, but there's something elegant and wearable about them even though theyre so unconservative (3,4,8). The dresses are a dream (7,12,19,24,28,36,38,40)...even something as small as the patterned tights could make the largest impact on any wardrobe (10). I feel these prints are amazingly timeless and the shade of the colors are so perfectly fall. Lacroix cuts a mean flirt. These arent for boring pretty girls.
Emporio Armani - 87 fucking photos?! The black pants are exactly as I like. Tight tight tight with a little flare at the hem and with the hem noticeably too short. I like the black tights underneath too. The jackets are way 80s cheese (and not in a good way by any means). The fabrics too seem a bit dated...the shiny pewter and velvet. I think it's very hard to cut a modern velvet piece. Who's that girl singing onstage?
Gucci - Tom Ford's final show for Gucci. I still dream of owning pieces from his first shows. His referenced eras are so instantly recognizable, but they are almost always fresh and modern. He knows nothing if not what women covet. First of all, those sunglasses! Second, the jacket in 10...I want those structured elbows! The crazy pants in 22 and 23!! The pure sultry sexiness of 31 And even though I care nothing for men's fashion - I LOVE 37! It's a little wrong and could be a total nightmare, but with the right amounts of pretty and scruffy it will be perfect. He's a lot of flash, but he has done so much good! *And* he's from Texas. Sniff.
MaxMara - Simple. I like pants tucked in boots. I hate this plaid: 27. Not much else to say.
Prada - I'm not digging the ultra-rounded busts (8,10). But I will never get tired of her 50s Italian aesthetic (12,19)(why did The Talented Mr Ripley have to look so good but be so bad [the movie, that is. the book is excellent]??). The higher waistlines are a nice change, as are her not-so-precise prints and colors (26,28,33,55). I think this started last season with the seemingly-handpainted full skirts. The coats are exquisite in a Grandmother's castoff sort of way (23,29,49).
The only one slower about posting these reviews is VogueUK!! This is crazy!
D&G - Not sexy enough for my D&G expectations, but the layering of colors and design in 16 is very lust-worthy. The coat in 31 is soooooooo fantabulous. Seriously, the color, the bow, the lining. You could wear that for the next 30 years and never be bored or boring.
DSquared2 - I will never be excited for lumberjacks. The cut of their pants seems very nice tho (6,26). That chocolate satin is dreamy of course (42) and with the belt, it reminds me a little of Tracy's wedding dress in The Philadelphia Story.
Emilio Pucci - Oh! These suits are wild, but there's something elegant and wearable about them even though theyre so unconservative (3,4,8). The dresses are a dream (7,12,19,24,28,36,38,40)...even something as small as the patterned tights could make the largest impact on any wardrobe (10). I feel these prints are amazingly timeless and the shade of the colors are so perfectly fall. Lacroix cuts a mean flirt. These arent for boring pretty girls.
Emporio Armani - 87 fucking photos?! The black pants are exactly as I like. Tight tight tight with a little flare at the hem and with the hem noticeably too short. I like the black tights underneath too. The jackets are way 80s cheese (and not in a good way by any means). The fabrics too seem a bit dated...the shiny pewter and velvet. I think it's very hard to cut a modern velvet piece. Who's that girl singing onstage?
Gucci - Tom Ford's final show for Gucci. I still dream of owning pieces from his first shows. His referenced eras are so instantly recognizable, but they are almost always fresh and modern. He knows nothing if not what women covet. First of all, those sunglasses! Second, the jacket in 10...I want those structured elbows! The crazy pants in 22 and 23!! The pure sultry sexiness of 31 And even though I care nothing for men's fashion - I LOVE 37! It's a little wrong and could be a total nightmare, but with the right amounts of pretty and scruffy it will be perfect. He's a lot of flash, but he has done so much good! *And* he's from Texas. Sniff.
MaxMara - Simple. I like pants tucked in boots. I hate this plaid: 27. Not much else to say.
Prada - I'm not digging the ultra-rounded busts (8,10). But I will never get tired of her 50s Italian aesthetic (12,19)(why did The Talented Mr Ripley have to look so good but be so bad [the movie, that is. the book is excellent]??). The higher waistlines are a nice change, as are her not-so-precise prints and colors (26,28,33,55). I think this started last season with the seemingly-handpainted full skirts. The coats are exquisite in a Grandmother's castoff sort of way (23,29,49).
The only one slower about posting these reviews is VogueUK!! This is crazy!
Tuesday, February 24, 2004
Milan (Day 1)
Alberta Ferretti - Her clothes always make me think of a sexy Italian widow. Antique lace and tulle pulled out of a trunk and fashioned into an elegant but youthful charm. The clothing of a long dead girl or a ghost, a la Dark Shadows. I am *aching* for her dresses. 13,16,28,29,44,48,49,50,52
Alessandro Dell Acqua - I love midnight velvet! I feel his coats are a little bulky and that the show didnt have much of a theme or style. I like the idea of so many of the pieces more than the reality. Something about the fit or the color or the style always screwed up the pleasure. It's just never a good sign when the clothes arent flattering to the models.
Anna Molinari - I always love her designs for Blumarine as the colors and fabrics and cuts are so ethereal, but here the collection is so heavy. Even the wisps of 17 and 30 seem stiff and grave. 38,45,48 are an improvement - I will kill for the coat in 38...I love the golds and purples (of course).
Giorgio Armani - Man, 101 photos! Man, a lot of black! Yawn. I'm not crazy about this 80s silhouette...long jacket, long skirt. The weird pants/skirt/shoes all in matching blah grey/brown is ick. I'm so bored! It's never going to end! Even the shocking pink at the end couldnt wake me.
Lawrence Steele - Some gorgeous coats and prints. I am a bit iffy about the fit of certain pieces, but the girlish charm of the rest sways me. The colors and floaty fabrics are such a welcome departure from the depressing (and boring to the eye) black. His coats look so cozy and cool - eccentric pieces that will become the owner's signature. 9,11,12,21,26, oh yes.
Pollini - Rifat Ozbek - I'm not sure how I could possibly respect anyone who likes those boots. They make all of the models appear to have gigantic knees and thighs! Just imagine what a regular girl would look like?! 6,11,12 are nice in a Gypsy schoolgirl way. I want to hug that sweater in 16 and I will walk over you to get my hands on 20. I want that to be my signature jacket! Over jeans, a tiny miniskirt, a long slip! I want it. I really like the old-fashioned fit and feel of this whole bit.
Alessandro Dell Acqua - I love midnight velvet! I feel his coats are a little bulky and that the show didnt have much of a theme or style. I like the idea of so many of the pieces more than the reality. Something about the fit or the color or the style always screwed up the pleasure. It's just never a good sign when the clothes arent flattering to the models.
Anna Molinari - I always love her designs for Blumarine as the colors and fabrics and cuts are so ethereal, but here the collection is so heavy. Even the wisps of 17 and 30 seem stiff and grave. 38,45,48 are an improvement - I will kill for the coat in 38...I love the golds and purples (of course).
Giorgio Armani - Man, 101 photos! Man, a lot of black! Yawn. I'm not crazy about this 80s silhouette...long jacket, long skirt. The weird pants/skirt/shoes all in matching blah grey/brown is ick. I'm so bored! It's never going to end! Even the shocking pink at the end couldnt wake me.
Lawrence Steele - Some gorgeous coats and prints. I am a bit iffy about the fit of certain pieces, but the girlish charm of the rest sways me. The colors and floaty fabrics are such a welcome departure from the depressing (and boring to the eye) black. His coats look so cozy and cool - eccentric pieces that will become the owner's signature. 9,11,12,21,26, oh yes.
Pollini - Rifat Ozbek - I'm not sure how I could possibly respect anyone who likes those boots. They make all of the models appear to have gigantic knees and thighs! Just imagine what a regular girl would look like?! 6,11,12 are nice in a Gypsy schoolgirl way. I want to hug that sweater in 16 and I will walk over you to get my hands on 20. I want that to be my signature jacket! Over jeans, a tiny miniskirt, a long slip! I want it. I really like the old-fashioned fit and feel of this whole bit.
Sunday, February 22, 2004
London is Dead (day 5)
The final two London shows are surprisingly worth the wait. They're both so fresh and so young and so silly.
Red or Dead - How much fun to wear that poodle suit in the most buttoned-up of meetings? Or just those glorious tights and sweater? I'm a sucker for ugly/pretty and a chance to flash some leg.
Zakee Shariff - I will say that I love that wallpaper more than the collection, but only because that wallpaper is so spooky perfect. I love the bit of print peeking through the pleat in 12. I had a dream a few months ago about a pleated skirt with a similar peeking-through fabric idea.
Red or Dead - How much fun to wear that poodle suit in the most buttoned-up of meetings? Or just those glorious tights and sweater? I'm a sucker for ugly/pretty and a chance to flash some leg.
Zakee Shariff - I will say that I love that wallpaper more than the collection, but only because that wallpaper is so spooky perfect. I love the bit of print peeking through the pleat in 12. I had a dream a few months ago about a pleated skirt with a similar peeking-through fabric idea.
Friday, February 20, 2004
London (Day 4)
Ghost - Simple sportswear, complicated jacket (10). The grey shoes are lovely (14). 19 – 70s sportswear chic. I’m really digging the cut of these pants (23) 33, 34, 35, 36 – the colors and cuts are just lovely.
Julien Macdonald - A little 70s dumb kitten (5). The kitten collars and wide lapel trenches could never be wrong. His colors are on fire, so warm and sexy (12,13,18,19). 35 is just lovely for an iceskating party. Why don’t people have iceskating parties?
Miki Fukai - It reminds me a bit of my beloved brand Label. 14 is quite interesting too.
Pringle - The greens and leather belts are quite properly off (3,5,13). I always fall for knickers. I had a similar pair in sky blue corduroy in 2nd grade (17). Bubble gum pink makes them irresistible. I’m so digging the twinset remade as sweater and scarf, especially argyle (11,22). Very wearable sophisticated school girl gear.
Robert Cary-Williams - Bulky goth. I’m reminded of broken antique dolls and that freaks me out.
Julien Macdonald - A little 70s dumb kitten (5). The kitten collars and wide lapel trenches could never be wrong. His colors are on fire, so warm and sexy (12,13,18,19). 35 is just lovely for an iceskating party. Why don’t people have iceskating parties?
Miki Fukai - It reminds me a bit of my beloved brand Label. 14 is quite interesting too.
Pringle - The greens and leather belts are quite properly off (3,5,13). I always fall for knickers. I had a similar pair in sky blue corduroy in 2nd grade (17). Bubble gum pink makes them irresistible. I’m so digging the twinset remade as sweater and scarf, especially argyle (11,22). Very wearable sophisticated school girl gear.
Robert Cary-Williams - Bulky goth. I’m reminded of broken antique dolls and that freaks me out.
Wednesday, February 18, 2004
London (day 3)
Allegra Hicks - Proper British suitings and slightly off tailoring. Please see 2, 10, 15, 24, 52 for details. This is how I would love to be.
Betty Jackson - Direct your attention to 1,7,15,36,43. Kind of middle-aged lady, but stressing the lady part. Well-made and unboring.
Eley Kishimoto - 1- yes yes yes yes yes, the style, the cut, the print. I live and die by the apron (4). 44 is almost a christmas sweater and it scares me that a seemingly cool brand could have produced such a piece of shit. 39,40 are the sexy cocktail waitress that you aspire to be whenever you sing "dont, dont you want me". The shoes in 35 are so 1994 YSL, that I may cry. Shoes such as these (though in gorgeous midnight blue with gold soles) were the star of a YSL ad that became my first magazine ripping (single tear). It was part of my wall collage for most of college years.
Fashion East-Ebru Ercon - I always wonder, does sloppy draping and bland colors all you need to be a designer? Some shows (like this) make me certain that I could do this industry.
Jasper Conran - Wow. 5,9,10,31,33,35. I usu hate all blacks and whites (hard for me to see), but this just looks so crisp and cool and a little scary-tough. Those boots are fucking amazing and the hair, the hair! I love.
Jonathan Saunders - Eww.
Nicole Farhi - Please click directly to 1,17,39,41,45,50. Simple and lovely. Delicate, but solid pieces. I love the smoky/dusty quality to the black velvet and whatever fabric that is in 44 and 45. Again, it's like something pulled out of a 20s steamer trunk. I think you would always be the prettiest, subtlest, most put-together girl in all of these.
Preen - 5 and 29 are nice, but a little to unwearably layered and blandly Helmut Lang.
Rafael Lopez - The jacket in photo 1 has just taken over as Most Coveted Suit Jacket from the herringbone, puffy sleeved Yohji from last fall (photo 36). An interesting lot of jackets and sailor dresses, but see 13 and 14 for sexy cool.
Sophia Kokosalaki - A little diff to see, but the twisting and gathering and rich colors and tight fit are just perfect (1,2,3). I'm sure up close, the detail is even more impressive.
Tata-Naka - I didnt know I could be so ok with gypsy. It's never my favorite look, but I like the paisley of 6, the simple but wrong elegance, sportswear styling of 7, the lush browns and layerings of 8, and the sweetly sexy bubblegum lingerie look of 26.
Betty Jackson - Direct your attention to 1,7,15,36,43. Kind of middle-aged lady, but stressing the lady part. Well-made and unboring.
Eley Kishimoto - 1- yes yes yes yes yes, the style, the cut, the print. I live and die by the apron (4). 44 is almost a christmas sweater and it scares me that a seemingly cool brand could have produced such a piece of shit. 39,40 are the sexy cocktail waitress that you aspire to be whenever you sing "dont, dont you want me". The shoes in 35 are so 1994 YSL, that I may cry. Shoes such as these (though in gorgeous midnight blue with gold soles) were the star of a YSL ad that became my first magazine ripping (single tear). It was part of my wall collage for most of college years.
Fashion East-Ebru Ercon - I always wonder, does sloppy draping and bland colors all you need to be a designer? Some shows (like this) make me certain that I could do this industry.
Jasper Conran - Wow. 5,9,10,31,33,35. I usu hate all blacks and whites (hard for me to see), but this just looks so crisp and cool and a little scary-tough. Those boots are fucking amazing and the hair, the hair! I love.
Jonathan Saunders - Eww.
Nicole Farhi - Please click directly to 1,17,39,41,45,50. Simple and lovely. Delicate, but solid pieces. I love the smoky/dusty quality to the black velvet and whatever fabric that is in 44 and 45. Again, it's like something pulled out of a 20s steamer trunk. I think you would always be the prettiest, subtlest, most put-together girl in all of these.
Preen - 5 and 29 are nice, but a little to unwearably layered and blandly Helmut Lang.
Rafael Lopez - The jacket in photo 1 has just taken over as Most Coveted Suit Jacket from the herringbone, puffy sleeved Yohji from last fall (photo 36). An interesting lot of jackets and sailor dresses, but see 13 and 14 for sexy cool.
Sophia Kokosalaki - A little diff to see, but the twisting and gathering and rich colors and tight fit are just perfect (1,2,3). I'm sure up close, the detail is even more impressive.
Tata-Naka - I didnt know I could be so ok with gypsy. It's never my favorite look, but I like the paisley of 6, the simple but wrong elegance, sportswear styling of 7, the lush browns and layerings of 8, and the sweetly sexy bubblegum lingerie look of 26.
Tuesday, February 17, 2004
On to London (day 1 and 2)
Arkadius - some wearable. a lot awkward.
Ben de Lisi - The dresses are floaty, dreamy. Everything else is Wet Seal cheese. And Photo 50 is in the running for worst outfit in history.
Bora Aksu - So very Dr Who sidekick. He layers while maintaining a slim silhouette. Photo 5 is the perfect Autumn dress...let's go lay out in the park. Can you go wrong with 70s-era SciFi? One problem, though, he somehow made the models appear to have gigantic thighs and calves. I hope it's just the lighting/angle.
Boudicca - No.
ChenPascual - Eh.
Clements Ribeiro - Fuuuuun prints. I love this evil chevron sweater in photo 13. The modern flapper styles, leopard print, and wacky stripes make these clothes all appear vintage. How weird that wacky can seem timeless.
Emma Cook - I like the opposing fits of her dresses (5, 7, 21). The applique concept seems a little un-fresh, as it's so linked with Nicholas Ghesquire.
Fashion East-Alistair Carr - 4,13,14 are all pretty cool, but maybe I actually like the socks best? Not bad at all though. If he had more funding for more looks and perhaps better fabrics, this would be really great.
Fashion East-Richard Nicholl - Baggy lumberjack, mulleted pickup driver, I dont want to look like any of this.
FrostFrench - A more substantial collection for them, yes, but also less fun and girlish. I always like their knits and everything here is very rough. Definitely original, just not my aesthetic perhaps.
Gharani Strok - Too Gucci/Tom Ford YSL. Nothing bad, just doesnt seem so orig.
Gibo - Weird hats. Hardly my favorite. Not too memorable, unless you're crazy about raincoats.
Giles Deacon - Every outfit seems so wrong, but I want it all. The chaos of styles works for a girl who loves dressup and doesnt mind a bit of costume. The big prints of 1, 19, 23 are dramatic but not overpowering. And his surprisingly sexy caftans are quite thought-provoking. I think it's all in the fabric...
House of Jazz - Drapey. Blah.
Jenny Packham - Snow globe chic. I also feel like I'm trapped in some insane-bizarro-circus. The colors are so rich, the fabrics so bright, the cut so floaty. These are all trapeze artist or snow globe figurine and I want to be that girl so badly. I really love it all. Inventive and artistic and wearable. Loooooove: 2,4,6,7,9,10,15,17,20,21,26,32.
Jens Laugesen - Slightly SciFi but not as covetable. He's more Calvin Klein bland and Helmut Lang layered. Not enough of an identity.
John Rocha - Very dramatic post-apocalypse. I like the idea of scavenging together disparate materials and fashioning them together frankenstein-style, esp if they turn out as well as 11,18, 23. His silhouette is so tall and thin and vaguely prim. I really crave 3 and 40.
Katarzyna Szczotarska - WTF with the eyeshadow? Blah and clumsy and apparently ill-fitting.
Paul Smith - The ribbon detail on the suit in photo 18. The hardness and softness of photos 45, 48, 51 (my favorite). But this collection isnt Paul Smithy enough for me.
PPQ - Perhaps it's only the makeup, but I feel this is how Eastern European business girls must dress. A little cheesy (leggings!) peg bundy and slightly ill-fitting.
Temperley - I love the black and pink and scalloped hems. All romantic sophistication without a smidgen of bland and wearably far from over-the-top.
Ben de Lisi - The dresses are floaty, dreamy. Everything else is Wet Seal cheese. And Photo 50 is in the running for worst outfit in history.
Bora Aksu - So very Dr Who sidekick. He layers while maintaining a slim silhouette. Photo 5 is the perfect Autumn dress...let's go lay out in the park. Can you go wrong with 70s-era SciFi? One problem, though, he somehow made the models appear to have gigantic thighs and calves. I hope it's just the lighting/angle.
Boudicca - No.
ChenPascual - Eh.
Clements Ribeiro - Fuuuuun prints. I love this evil chevron sweater in photo 13. The modern flapper styles, leopard print, and wacky stripes make these clothes all appear vintage. How weird that wacky can seem timeless.
Emma Cook - I like the opposing fits of her dresses (5, 7, 21). The applique concept seems a little un-fresh, as it's so linked with Nicholas Ghesquire.
Fashion East-Alistair Carr - 4,13,14 are all pretty cool, but maybe I actually like the socks best? Not bad at all though. If he had more funding for more looks and perhaps better fabrics, this would be really great.
Fashion East-Richard Nicholl - Baggy lumberjack, mulleted pickup driver, I dont want to look like any of this.
FrostFrench - A more substantial collection for them, yes, but also less fun and girlish. I always like their knits and everything here is very rough. Definitely original, just not my aesthetic perhaps.
Gharani Strok - Too Gucci/Tom Ford YSL. Nothing bad, just doesnt seem so orig.
Gibo - Weird hats. Hardly my favorite. Not too memorable, unless you're crazy about raincoats.
Giles Deacon - Every outfit seems so wrong, but I want it all. The chaos of styles works for a girl who loves dressup and doesnt mind a bit of costume. The big prints of 1, 19, 23 are dramatic but not overpowering. And his surprisingly sexy caftans are quite thought-provoking. I think it's all in the fabric...
House of Jazz - Drapey. Blah.
Jenny Packham - Snow globe chic. I also feel like I'm trapped in some insane-bizarro-circus. The colors are so rich, the fabrics so bright, the cut so floaty. These are all trapeze artist or snow globe figurine and I want to be that girl so badly. I really love it all. Inventive and artistic and wearable. Loooooove: 2,4,6,7,9,10,15,17,20,21,26,32.
Jens Laugesen - Slightly SciFi but not as covetable. He's more Calvin Klein bland and Helmut Lang layered. Not enough of an identity.
John Rocha - Very dramatic post-apocalypse. I like the idea of scavenging together disparate materials and fashioning them together frankenstein-style, esp if they turn out as well as 11,18, 23. His silhouette is so tall and thin and vaguely prim. I really crave 3 and 40.
Katarzyna Szczotarska - WTF with the eyeshadow? Blah and clumsy and apparently ill-fitting.
Paul Smith - The ribbon detail on the suit in photo 18. The hardness and softness of photos 45, 48, 51 (my favorite). But this collection isnt Paul Smithy enough for me.
PPQ - Perhaps it's only the makeup, but I feel this is how Eastern European business girls must dress. A little cheesy (leggings!) peg bundy and slightly ill-fitting.
Temperley - I love the black and pink and scalloped hems. All romantic sophistication without a smidgen of bland and wearably far from over-the-top.
New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 5)
Sorry for the delay!
Behnaz Sarafpour - Ooooh. Her show makes me love fashion and it's so nice to see a youthfully hip female designer making quality contributions. It's a very Prada-esque collection, but much more Audrey Hepburn than nerdy, eccentric Italian kitten. Both designers definitely share an intelligent approach to design - there's nothing frivolous and nothing that you wouldnt dream of owning. Especially if you like to dream in 40s films. Photos 3, 8, 17, and 27 are at the top of my list. Chocolate satin is the perfect Fall It item. She's a former Asst Designer to Isaac Mizrahi and, thankfully, you can always feel his influence in her designs.
Calvin Klein - Mmm. More chocolate satin...I know this doesnt make sense and perhaps it's just the angularity of the models, but the draping here seems very harsh and very disco manly. Some of the looks are ridiculously and awkwardly mannish (photo 15), but a few of the evening looks are familiar Calvin Klein (39).
Donna Karan - A very gothic Donna. I actually adore 18, 20 - the patterns and style seem so un-Donna and so very Westwood. She seems to have picked up quite a lot of the inspiration of her fellow designers. And how fabulous and decidedly un-frumpy and un-Barbra does she look?!
Jeffrey Chow - Burnished gold pants (7) - sooooo Autumn. I like the scarves and fragility of his designs. Usually such a characteristic annoys me, as your friend who cant stand up for herself and always appears meek annoys you, but here they are elegant and breezy.
Ralph Lauren - I think photo 2 maybe the most horrid outfit I have ever seen in my life. The color is atrocious, the material looks cheap, and how fucking cheesy is that belt?! And off-the-shoulder?! This is 80s-working woman absolute nightmare crap. Ick.
Ralph Rucci Chado - Middle aged, 80s blah. Perhaps he's so unflashy, I miss his talent. I dont know. I try, but I'm just. too. bored.
United Bamboo - If I had to wear suits to work, I'd only choose 2 and 12. Wasnt so down with anything else.
Zac Posen - Crazy texture mixing. I'm not sure about a lot of it, but I love rusching (?). The shocking color mixing is a little mind-blowing, as well. I cant tell if I abs love this or abs hate it. That's a good reaction, I think. The blues are positively dreamy.
Behnaz Sarafpour - Ooooh. Her show makes me love fashion and it's so nice to see a youthfully hip female designer making quality contributions. It's a very Prada-esque collection, but much more Audrey Hepburn than nerdy, eccentric Italian kitten. Both designers definitely share an intelligent approach to design - there's nothing frivolous and nothing that you wouldnt dream of owning. Especially if you like to dream in 40s films. Photos 3, 8, 17, and 27 are at the top of my list. Chocolate satin is the perfect Fall It item. She's a former Asst Designer to Isaac Mizrahi and, thankfully, you can always feel his influence in her designs.
Calvin Klein - Mmm. More chocolate satin...I know this doesnt make sense and perhaps it's just the angularity of the models, but the draping here seems very harsh and very disco manly. Some of the looks are ridiculously and awkwardly mannish (photo 15), but a few of the evening looks are familiar Calvin Klein (39).
Donna Karan - A very gothic Donna. I actually adore 18, 20 - the patterns and style seem so un-Donna and so very Westwood. She seems to have picked up quite a lot of the inspiration of her fellow designers. And how fabulous and decidedly un-frumpy and un-Barbra does she look?!
Jeffrey Chow - Burnished gold pants (7) - sooooo Autumn. I like the scarves and fragility of his designs. Usually such a characteristic annoys me, as your friend who cant stand up for herself and always appears meek annoys you, but here they are elegant and breezy.
Ralph Lauren - I think photo 2 maybe the most horrid outfit I have ever seen in my life. The color is atrocious, the material looks cheap, and how fucking cheesy is that belt?! And off-the-shoulder?! This is 80s-working woman absolute nightmare crap. Ick.
Ralph Rucci Chado - Middle aged, 80s blah. Perhaps he's so unflashy, I miss his talent. I dont know. I try, but I'm just. too. bored.
United Bamboo - If I had to wear suits to work, I'd only choose 2 and 12. Wasnt so down with anything else.
Zac Posen - Crazy texture mixing. I'm not sure about a lot of it, but I love rusching (?). The shocking color mixing is a little mind-blowing, as well. I cant tell if I abs love this or abs hate it. That's a good reaction, I think. The blues are positively dreamy.
Thursday, February 12, 2004
New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 4)
Anna Sui - How can you criticize someone whose aesthetic is all about fun. This collection is the eccentric Park Avenue, childless aunt who's been widowed for 22 years and keeps her money in old Bergdorf's hatboxes in her antique wardrobe. It's a look I like to keep in my back pocket for the day I find an old, tattered Chanel suit in a thrift shop. I'm dying for the bag in photo 12.
Baby Phat - Well, you already know how I feel about people who "design" collections. This is probably the first time Kimora Lee Simmons has seen these clothes...Anyway. The honey browns are nice, the boots in photo 20 are a dream. Theyre sexy mall pieces.
J. Mendel - Furs on top of Narciso Rodriguez knock-offs.
John Varvatos - Oooh, I'd forgotten how sharp a minidress looks under a longer, tailored coat. Nice. Unfortunately, that's about all I can say. The rest is nice, but just seems like late 90s Calvin Klein retreads (44, and all of the long satin-y slip dresses).
Matthew Williamson - Hmm. He seems like such a nice person. I really like 14 and 20, but I feel like he makes better individual pieces than a whole look. And a lot of this would work much better as a Spring show (22- a perfect dress for April). The final round of dresses (partic 26 and 31-looooooove) are soooo light and lovely and actually seem like solidly constructed pieces, but dont they too seem a little Spring?
Michael Kors - The thing I love best about him is that he creates a lifestyle fantasy. This season appears to be jet-setting. The models almost seem like anime in a secret agent manga. I'm totally digging all but the fur shoulder pads (wtf?). The shade of purple is so nice with the browns. His sweaters are the epitome of luxe...cant you just feel how soft that cashmere is? I will go to sleep tonight with fantasies of wearing photo 58.
Proenza Schouler - Speaking of secret agents, these are definitely Russian. The leather trench in photo 7 will never be out of style. Interesting and well-fitted, but not enough variety. How many times did we see that last dress?
Vera Wang - From what I can make out in this horrid lighting, her 'regular' clothes are ok. Just fine. Ok. But her real talents are in crafting the classiest, cleanest, most modern red-carpet dresses. I dont think this collection showcased her talents.
Baby Phat - Well, you already know how I feel about people who "design" collections. This is probably the first time Kimora Lee Simmons has seen these clothes...Anyway. The honey browns are nice, the boots in photo 20 are a dream. Theyre sexy mall pieces.
J. Mendel - Furs on top of Narciso Rodriguez knock-offs.
John Varvatos - Oooh, I'd forgotten how sharp a minidress looks under a longer, tailored coat. Nice. Unfortunately, that's about all I can say. The rest is nice, but just seems like late 90s Calvin Klein retreads (44, and all of the long satin-y slip dresses).
Matthew Williamson - Hmm. He seems like such a nice person. I really like 14 and 20, but I feel like he makes better individual pieces than a whole look. And a lot of this would work much better as a Spring show (22- a perfect dress for April). The final round of dresses (partic 26 and 31-looooooove) are soooo light and lovely and actually seem like solidly constructed pieces, but dont they too seem a little Spring?
Michael Kors - The thing I love best about him is that he creates a lifestyle fantasy. This season appears to be jet-setting. The models almost seem like anime in a secret agent manga. I'm totally digging all but the fur shoulder pads (wtf?). The shade of purple is so nice with the browns. His sweaters are the epitome of luxe...cant you just feel how soft that cashmere is? I will go to sleep tonight with fantasies of wearing photo 58.
Proenza Schouler - Speaking of secret agents, these are definitely Russian. The leather trench in photo 7 will never be out of style. Interesting and well-fitted, but not enough variety. How many times did we see that last dress?
Vera Wang - From what I can make out in this horrid lighting, her 'regular' clothes are ok. Just fine. Ok. But her real talents are in crafting the classiest, cleanest, most modern red-carpet dresses. I dont think this collection showcased her talents.
Tuesday, February 10, 2004
New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 2)
Badgley Mischka - Oooooh. Now I am desperate for cocktail party invitations. I definitely need some charcoal grey in my closet and midnight blue silky camisoles (3,4,5,14,21,25,37). Sexy, sheer, mature, lady-like. Isnt it wacky that they're also designing Carmen Electra's wedding dress?
BCBG - I usu like this line for its flirty, feminine grown-up girl looks, but this show is a little frumpy, ugly, and the wrong parts of the 70s/80s. I didnt really enjoy the color scheme, save a few pieces (34,44,45,48 - I am crying for those shoes!). Some were a little too reminiscent of 7th grade home ec projects.
Carolina Herrera - Wow. I usu love her, but perhaps I always like her Spring collections more. She seems to have really embraced fur her, which I'm not crazy about - not for political/ethical/what-have-you but because it seems frumpy/roll-of-carpet-y (19). 32 is better, but something still seems off. I dont really like this silhouette, perhaps - the higher waist and fishtail hem. 47 is a nice dress, but kind of seems out of place with the rest of the collection. The whole thing just seemed a little too prim and bland for me.
DKNY - I love to critcize Donna Karan but the last few seasons, I've been forced to eat my words. Photo 9 shows the most vivid, 3-D in a photo blouse. I'm dying to see it up-close (24 - same color and similar effect). Photo 15 completely recreates the idea of a one-shouldered sweater as a sophisticated and not-at-all-cheesy piece of clothing. Her color scheme is the best I've seen...I'm actually longing for Fall (40,43,48). The final group of dresses are just so rich, confident, simple. Sigh.
Jill Stuart - Perfect silhoutte. Nice prints. To die for lace-up boots. Even the pieces in all black translate as modern, sexy, exactly-what-I-want (1,4,10). There's a little bit of sci-fi ship's navigator (12, 17), intergalactic princess (15), and some things that are just plain awful (14,20,24), but I think the majority are covetable (22).
Marc Jacobs - Finally! An MJ show that I can swoon for again! The opening photo is exactly how I want to look this Fall at all times. Photo 2! Now that's the way to wear a fur...very Margot Tennenbaum and I dig the too-short sleeves. I secretly (well, ok, if you see me every day it's not such a secret) love ill-fitting clothes. Sleeves and pant legs a little too long or short...a ridiculously over-sized dress shirt under a much-too-small shirt. That's his talent, I think. He can pick the trends but also he knows just how a girl (a girl that's not too fashion-y and doesnt like fussy) likes to wear stuff. I would take any and every, but especially 9, 17, 40, 41 (tho the shirt would look horrid on me), and the skirt in 42 (I'm never a fan of long, light-weight, not-fitted coats).
Oscar de la Renta - As per forever, pretty-girl skirts and sweaters though the alarmingly higher number of grande dame pieces freaks me out. I dream of making an entrance in the boots in photo 9...the coat could be lovely to hide the barest of minis. 38 and 45 are my first choice formal-wear so far. The pouffiness of 45 is borderline silly, but the white blouse tucked underneath makes it a little punk, no?
As Four - I cant really make out much of the collection and I dont really get showing it on children...are they making a statement about models? I've never been able to get behind their signature flower-petal design. Bjork loves them, so what do I know?
These collections have been, on-the-whole, a bit somber for my tastes. Rich colors are nice, but quirkier/more obnoxious pieces could break up the whole Ice Princess look.
PS- I'm feeling decidedly brazilian today. Much less painful and traumatic than I'd imagined, but I'm fairly certain I can now handle the pains of childbirth. :-)
BCBG - I usu like this line for its flirty, feminine grown-up girl looks, but this show is a little frumpy, ugly, and the wrong parts of the 70s/80s. I didnt really enjoy the color scheme, save a few pieces (34,44,45,48 - I am crying for those shoes!). Some were a little too reminiscent of 7th grade home ec projects.
Carolina Herrera - Wow. I usu love her, but perhaps I always like her Spring collections more. She seems to have really embraced fur her, which I'm not crazy about - not for political/ethical/what-have-you but because it seems frumpy/roll-of-carpet-y (19). 32 is better, but something still seems off. I dont really like this silhouette, perhaps - the higher waist and fishtail hem. 47 is a nice dress, but kind of seems out of place with the rest of the collection. The whole thing just seemed a little too prim and bland for me.
DKNY - I love to critcize Donna Karan but the last few seasons, I've been forced to eat my words. Photo 9 shows the most vivid, 3-D in a photo blouse. I'm dying to see it up-close (24 - same color and similar effect). Photo 15 completely recreates the idea of a one-shouldered sweater as a sophisticated and not-at-all-cheesy piece of clothing. Her color scheme is the best I've seen...I'm actually longing for Fall (40,43,48). The final group of dresses are just so rich, confident, simple. Sigh.
Jill Stuart - Perfect silhoutte. Nice prints. To die for lace-up boots. Even the pieces in all black translate as modern, sexy, exactly-what-I-want (1,4,10). There's a little bit of sci-fi ship's navigator (12, 17), intergalactic princess (15), and some things that are just plain awful (14,20,24), but I think the majority are covetable (22).
Marc Jacobs - Finally! An MJ show that I can swoon for again! The opening photo is exactly how I want to look this Fall at all times. Photo 2! Now that's the way to wear a fur...very Margot Tennenbaum and I dig the too-short sleeves. I secretly (well, ok, if you see me every day it's not such a secret) love ill-fitting clothes. Sleeves and pant legs a little too long or short...a ridiculously over-sized dress shirt under a much-too-small shirt. That's his talent, I think. He can pick the trends but also he knows just how a girl (a girl that's not too fashion-y and doesnt like fussy) likes to wear stuff. I would take any and every, but especially 9, 17, 40, 41 (tho the shirt would look horrid on me), and the skirt in 42 (I'm never a fan of long, light-weight, not-fitted coats).
Oscar de la Renta - As per forever, pretty-girl skirts and sweaters though the alarmingly higher number of grande dame pieces freaks me out. I dream of making an entrance in the boots in photo 9...the coat could be lovely to hide the barest of minis. 38 and 45 are my first choice formal-wear so far. The pouffiness of 45 is borderline silly, but the white blouse tucked underneath makes it a little punk, no?
As Four - I cant really make out much of the collection and I dont really get showing it on children...are they making a statement about models? I've never been able to get behind their signature flower-petal design. Bjork loves them, so what do I know?
These collections have been, on-the-whole, a bit somber for my tastes. Rich colors are nice, but quirkier/more obnoxious pieces could break up the whole Ice Princess look.
PS- I'm feeling decidedly brazilian today. Much less painful and traumatic than I'd imagined, but I'm fairly certain I can now handle the pains of childbirth. :-)
Monday, February 09, 2004
New York! Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 (Day 1)
Derek Lam - Prada mixed with a little anachronism. That's not a compliment. In theory, each of the pieces work in a quirky/conventional/50s Italian way similar to Prada. In practice, something is definitely off - the fit, the combinations, the color scheme. Maybe he's just referencing or mixing with an era I'm not keen on, but it just doesnt work for me. I do love the orange trousers in photo 18, but I am a sucker for a well-cut pant.
DVF - Oh! The first photo is a dream. Is it a coat or a dress? Is that a cumberbund? I really dont care, I want it regardless. Here is the perfect mix of downtown career girl. Pieces to covet, foundation pieces to stockpile...never toooo fashion-y. Almost every piece is entirely wearable. She has a nice eye for prints. I like the fiery graffiti in photo 28.
IOC - Blah blah blah. Sucks. Blah blah blah. The boots arent bad though.
Kenneth Cole - I have no criticism here. Everything is *nice*, but everything also seemed a little un-exciting. Not tired and not done, just ok. If youre a very nice, good girl who doesnt like to think too hard about fashion or making a statement, this is the most ideal collection for you.
Luca Luca - It's diff to review shows with lots of dark colored clothes and dim lighting, as no one is yet paying me to actually report from said shows. So barring the 60% of clothes that I couldnt see, I again have no complaints here. There is definitely quality in design, care in fabric selection (though I'm a little tired of the satin, yet I think it probably shows very well). I'm sure these are very good foundation pieces, just nothing that makes me coo.
Perry Ellis - Damn this terrible lighting! Damn the first 25 photos of men's (seriously, who gives a shit?!)! I'm so frustrated, because the clothes I can make out are so perfectly 50s sorority chic but I cant fully see them. Argh. The palm springs rebel in photo 39, the blue gloves in 44, the big baggy suit in 36, and the perfectly demure princess in 31 are all on my wish list, but the coats (25,30,48) are truly the winning pieces.
Tuleh - I'm not usually a fan, as this is the gear for a blandly blonde UES girl, but I want photo 3 in my wardrobe now. It's very spring, dont you think? And photo 10 is wonderfully Yohji. I wish I could make out the fabric - is it a heavy tweed or light silk-rayon? The coat in photo 12 is the right mix of crazy-old-lady and avant garde, with maybe a touch of Jackie O thrown in the print. I absolutely adore the hair and makeup. The hair is so soft and natural, but not the slightest bit bed-heady. I must learn.
DVF - Oh! The first photo is a dream. Is it a coat or a dress? Is that a cumberbund? I really dont care, I want it regardless. Here is the perfect mix of downtown career girl. Pieces to covet, foundation pieces to stockpile...never toooo fashion-y. Almost every piece is entirely wearable. She has a nice eye for prints. I like the fiery graffiti in photo 28.
IOC - Blah blah blah. Sucks. Blah blah blah. The boots arent bad though.
Kenneth Cole - I have no criticism here. Everything is *nice*, but everything also seemed a little un-exciting. Not tired and not done, just ok. If youre a very nice, good girl who doesnt like to think too hard about fashion or making a statement, this is the most ideal collection for you.
Luca Luca - It's diff to review shows with lots of dark colored clothes and dim lighting, as no one is yet paying me to actually report from said shows. So barring the 60% of clothes that I couldnt see, I again have no complaints here. There is definitely quality in design, care in fabric selection (though I'm a little tired of the satin, yet I think it probably shows very well). I'm sure these are very good foundation pieces, just nothing that makes me coo.
Perry Ellis - Damn this terrible lighting! Damn the first 25 photos of men's (seriously, who gives a shit?!)! I'm so frustrated, because the clothes I can make out are so perfectly 50s sorority chic but I cant fully see them. Argh. The palm springs rebel in photo 39, the blue gloves in 44, the big baggy suit in 36, and the perfectly demure princess in 31 are all on my wish list, but the coats (25,30,48) are truly the winning pieces.
Tuleh - I'm not usually a fan, as this is the gear for a blandly blonde UES girl, but I want photo 3 in my wardrobe now. It's very spring, dont you think? And photo 10 is wonderfully Yohji. I wish I could make out the fabric - is it a heavy tweed or light silk-rayon? The coat in photo 12 is the right mix of crazy-old-lady and avant garde, with maybe a touch of Jackie O thrown in the print. I absolutely adore the hair and makeup. The hair is so soft and natural, but not the slightest bit bed-heady. I must learn.
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